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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 02-10-2017, 05:36 AM
  #4576  
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Old 02-10-2017, 06:08 AM
  #4577  
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Originally Posted by JAE
https://m.facebook.com/groups/1729446347300369?view=permalink&id=175720274785806 2

See xb2nation narrative. Yes, they do. But, you will need Yokomo dogbones too which are about $16 a pair. There are 2 options for dogbones. Either the bmax 62.5mm bones or some new 65mm bones. You use the whole Yok ball diff with the exception of the gear (use the XRAY gear as it has 1 more tooth), some shims each side and Yok Dogbones. The newer lighter bones require a bit more shimming. I have all the parts and plan to try it this weekend. I believe it's the same process for the TLR diff too with the Yok dogbones.

So what is the part number for these bmax2 v3 rr dog bones? I cannot seem to locate them.

Edit..... forget this. I'm just getting the X-ray ball diff. Less screwing around and won't be that much more $ after buying everything needed for the yoko swap
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by scr8pn4205
how much lighter is it than the xray eliminator kit?
Not sure, the EXOTEK delete with Xray 69t spur weigh 6 grams while this setup is 4 gram, that's 30% less weight.
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:09 AM
  #4579  
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This is going to be another stupid question, sorry if offends anyone. But does each gram really add that much time off your runs? Or is it because it is on the slipper that the motor does much less work?
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
Ball diffs and gear diffs behave very differently. Under load a ball diff has a constant feel, as forces acting upon the diff changes, the action of the diff is constant whether the force is increasing of decreasing. Since a gear diff uses fluids there are shear rates involved, when forces that act upon the diff, the shear rates changes thus the diff action changes. A gear diff tends to lock up the more the forces acting on it increases, this may cause an increase in forward drive in high bite conditions and in low bite conditions it may cause instability or make the car feel lose.
THANk you for the explanation

Last edited by Slapjack; 02-10-2017 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:43 AM
  #4581  
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Exotech had a news release days back of even a lighter slipper eliminator designed only for that purpose.

http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ...ct_spur_mount/
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:52 AM
  #4582  
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Originally Posted by TheYellowDart
This is going to be another stupid question, sorry if offends anyone. But does each gram really add that much time off your runs? Or is it because it is on the slipper that the motor does much less work?
Any rotating mass that can be removed helps with 17.5 classes
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Old 02-10-2017, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by TheYellowDart
This is going to be another stupid question, sorry if offends anyone. But does each gram really add that much time off your runs? Or is it because it is on the slipper that the motor does much less work?
in spec racing, yes. cars predominately run in the US are AE and TLR. asking in those threads might provide you with a better understanding. 17.5 racing is no longer US only exclusive anymore. i asked racers at our track same question you are, including the racer who posted the how puck a XB2 to WIKI at front of this thread.

reducing rotating mass (RM), even what seems to be minor grams has a greater effect on acceleration and cooler motor operation that removing major grams/ounces off your car.

two weight legal 1500 gram cars and lets say equal skill drivers

car A - uses a stock drive train, CVDs, outdrives, slipper, but has alot of trick chassis lightening stuff, this car may have handling issues due to weight taken from various parts of the car and affects handling. facing car B in neck to neck driving will notice car B slightly out braking, out accelerating...spooling up quicker in reaching top end speed.

Car B - uses near every RM (rotating mass) reduction trick, is able to add weight in locations to aid handling as needed, those RM reductions will result in cooler motor operations if geared the same as car A during a race, however may even be able to gear 1-2 teeth higher on a pinion due to the RM reduction

i myself do no RM reductions. i have a friend who started doing them in a 17.5 dirt oval class we race with offroad buggies converted to run late model wedge bodies against purposely designed for oval type only cars. before he did all the below we were usually neck and neck near equal. after he did all the below, he was leaving me, competing with and beating those oval only cars. accusations of cheating were abound, then he had to go thru many question and answer sessions of what he had done to his converted offroad buggy.

- ceramic bearings in GB, outdrives, motor
- slipper eliminator and LW top shaft, exotech spur mounted with TI screws instead of steel
- ceramic diff balls inner and outer
- cut gears
- full LW aluminum MIP puck and diff system system
- aluminum diff halves are drilled to lighten further
- titanium outdrives and uses LW aluminum wheel nuts

when i spoke to RCA when i got my XB2 from them about a spur gear lower than 75T, they did not think of it and 17.5 racing in the US at the time.

to do up a XB2 for this extreme RM reduction for 17.5 racing you will need to use other brands ball diffs that will support a 53T XB2 diff gear. see wiki on this car. IMO, i would just go ahead do another car brand for 17.5, but either way you will spend alot of money. RM reduction in not cheap. there was a post with a photo of a XB2 with a TLR LW ball diff, aluminum bones, outdrives, and rear hub carriers, but i can't find it. talking to a racer, who had pucked and RM reduced this car, he said MIP/AE type diffs will work too, shim as needed.

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 02-10-2017 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 02-10-2017, 12:45 PM
  #4584  
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Quick question on a write up in the wiki. It says for the ball diff To put a drop of ca glue between the ring and outdrives and use a shim cause the stock spring is too short. If I use the AE spring do I still need to glue the rings to the outdrives? Or do I not need to do that or use the shim if using the AE spring?

Last edited by Slapjack; 02-10-2017 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 02-10-2017, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by TheYellowDart
This is going to be another stupid question, sorry if offends anyone. But does each gram really add that much time off your runs? Or is it because it is on the slipper that the motor does much less work?
Spend your time and money on practice. Don't get caught up in doing all the mods.
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Old 02-10-2017, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Slapjack
Quick question on a write up in the wiki. It says for the ball diff To put a drop of ca glue between the ring and outdrives and use a shim cause the stock spring is too short. If I use the AE spring do I still need to glue the rings to the outdrives? Or do I not need to do that or use the shim if using the AE spring?
Gluing the ring to the outdrives is to keep them from rotating on the outdrives.
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Pville Stig
Gluing the ring to the outdrives is to keep them from rotating on the outdrives.
So I just ordered the ball diff and the AE spring specified in the wiki. So when I get the ball diff I will disassemble it and install the new spring and put one drop of ca glue between each ring and outdrive? Once it is finished being assembled can I break it in on the bench and bring it up to tightness that way? Or should I be running it on the track? I watched a video of a guy with a b4 and he just held each wheel and gave throttle for a few sec alternating sides that he would hold. Then he tightened a little more and repeated.
I'm just concerned about how tight to go. What he did was tighten it so you can't turn the tires in opp direction with moderate hand force. Then he broke it in. But seemed like at the end you can rotate the tires pretty easily. I'll probably have to ask someone at my track to help cause trying to explain this on a forum probably isn't going to be easy. Sorry. I just don't want to ruin a $75 diff right off the bat as soon as I get it. This is the video there is a part 3 & 4 but it's a really old video so I didn't know if there is some other way to be doing this

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hKpW9nqOok4

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_XZCphE3Ics
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:21 PM
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xray instructions for setting up the diff is pretty much the standard everywhere

on my stock XB2 ball diff i put a little CA where diff rings go unto diff outdrive halves. i did have issues with one side diff rings spinning.

not sure if this is needed on MIP diffs, or other brands that will fit in XB2. i have another brand car and diff rings are also not keyed and they do not spin or require CA
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:42 PM
  #4589  
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
xray instructions for setting up the diff is pretty much the standard everywhere

on my stock XB2 ball diff i put a little CA where diff rings go unto diff outdrive halves. i did have issues with one side diff rings spinning.

not sure if this is needed on MIP diffs, or other brands that will fit in XB2. i have another brand car and diff rings are also not keyed and they do not spin or require CA
Did you use the AE spring or the stock one?
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Old 02-11-2017, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Slapjack
Did you use the AE spring or the stock one?
for sure use the AE one.
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