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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-23-2016, 03:44 PM
  #2161  
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Originally Posted by seth556
Why would the brass front bulkhead keep the nose down?
If you running drag brake that happened nose dive try to turn down drag brake
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by raved007
If you running drag brake that happened nose dive try to turn down drag brake
To much brake would cause the nose to drop. No drag brake at all in my car. Besides I'm wide azz open off the jump. It's happens coming off the jump.
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Old 03-23-2016, 04:04 PM
  #2163  
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Originally Posted by jake alton
To much brake would cause the nose to drop. No drag brake at all in my car. Besides I'm wide azz open off the jump. It's happens coming off the jump.
I agree that too much drag brake would cause nose dive issue but i set 5% drag brake and hit throttle little bit on the air to make flat landing on the ground.
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:37 PM
  #2164  
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Originally Posted by raved007
I agree that too much drag brake would cause nose dive issue but i set 5% drag brake and hit throttle little bit on the air to make flat landing on the ground.
Throttle control is going to be a big part of the car jumping. But I want the car to be predictable when flying through the air and 2degree anti squat was never an issue with jumping. I always moved weight around to quickly balance the car when jumping. Most won't do that as it will change handling in turns. Again more anti squat will make Suspension stiffer. I will play with that also.
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Old 03-23-2016, 11:38 PM
  #2165  
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What upgrade parts are necessary out of the box? Is it competitive like the b5m lite out of the box with nothing added?
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Old 03-24-2016, 02:26 AM
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You don't need any parts. Just race the car and buy tires.
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Old 03-24-2016, 05:41 AM
  #2167  
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club raced the car for a second time last night. I came in second and drove the fastest overall time that I've ever done on the current layout. Running nate jaskot's club race smactrac setup (my home track is similar to smactrac). Car feels planted and I feel is quicker through the in-field than my b5m. It also feels more responsive than my b5m. I actually have to adjust my controller to tone down the steering.

One of my friends is running the box stock setup and likes the car, also.

Loving this car. I want to try a few more adjustments to see if I can get even more speed out of the car.

My hinge pins in the front arm started coming out. I needed to put some ballstud shims as a temporary measure to keep them from sliding out. Other than than, build quality and design is awesome. Can't wait to get my body from my painter. Will post up when I get it.
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Old 03-24-2016, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by JAE
What upgrade parts are necessary out of the box? Is it competitive like the b5m lite out of the box with nothing added?
The dirt edition needs setup help, for sure. Buy what brand springs you like, and get the spring cups to match.
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Old 03-24-2016, 06:25 AM
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Ran the car last night for the first time. I definitely did not like the box setup. Absolutely way too soft, car would just dump and roll hard.

Went to 35wt front, 32.5 rear losi oil. Still with the 3x1.3's which will be coming out for 2 hole 1.6s front and rear. Went to AE whites front and rear and this helped immensely. The car was numb, and this gave it a lot more feel. I'm also at 3 degrees rear toe and 1 degree anti squat.
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Old 03-24-2016, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Eaglesrx
club raced the car for a second time last night. I came in second and drove the fastest overall time that I've ever done on the current layout. Running nate jaskot's club race smactrac setup (my home track is similar to smactrac). Car feels planted and I feel is quicker through the in-field than my b5m. It also feels more responsive than my b5m. I actually have to adjust my controller to tone down the steering.

One of my friends is running the box stock setup and likes the car, also.

Loving this car. I want to try a few more adjustments to see if I can get even more speed out of the car.

My hinge pins in the front arm started coming out. I needed to put some ballstud shims as a temporary measure to keep them from sliding out. Other than than, build quality and design is awesome. Can't wait to get my body from my painter. Will post up when I get it.
I'm running Nate set up too except front/rear spring i feel car planted also other racer they drove my truck they love it now he is selling B5m light to get this kit
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Old 03-24-2016, 06:39 AM
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Is there a list of required parts to convert the ce to de?
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Old 03-24-2016, 06:55 AM
  #2172  
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there is.. on xray website in the download section of the XB2
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Old 03-24-2016, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by mts33
Is there a list of required parts to convert the ce to de?
It's right around $200 to convert it from dirt to carpet, might be worth just spending the extra $150 and buy the whole kit.

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Old 03-24-2016, 09:15 AM
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i was looking at the xray website.. and noticed that they took the rear motor stuff off the page showing the xb2 stuff..

also noticed.. they changed the shock position information.. shocks mounted in front of the rear tower.. should be for high traction.. behind the tower for low traction..
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Old 03-24-2016, 10:59 AM
  #2175  
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I have a ton of VTR 2.4 Electrons with VTR and AKA Evo rims. What do I need to get these to fit on the XB2 and can this also be used for the 2.2mm in AE offset? thank much all. look forward to the build
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