333LikesXray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
05-04-2019, 06:44 PM - Wikipost
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10-03-2016, 07:27 AM
#3766
so is this the 30T pinion that works with the new Xray slipper eliminator?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...54546?v=150275
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...54546?v=150275
10-03-2016, 08:53 AM
#3767
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
So I have the possibility of a kick ass deal (below dealer cost) on a 2016 XB2 Dirt edition that was opened, but unbuilt or used. Should I go for it, or will the new model be different enough to wait and go full price mode? If it's only a few new parts, i'd much rather only spend the on the kit I can get now. I already have a laydown 22 3.0 that is perfect for me to run on high/medium grip clay tracks, so I wouldnt be converting this to a laydown car.
i think the losi is a better low bite car and the xray a better high bite.
but frankly, i wouldn't run 2 different 2wd buggies in the first place. id run the same brand for ease of maintenance, and the transfer of parts to save money and space in the box.
10-03-2016, 10:28 AM
#3768
man, if i were you i would run the losi on dirt and the xb2 on med-high bite clay and astro/carpet tracks.
i think the losi is a better low bite car and the xray a better high bite.
but frankly, i wouldn't run 2 different 2wd buggies in the first place. id run the same brand for ease of maintenance, and the transfer of parts to save money and space in the box.
i think the losi is a better low bite car and the xray a better high bite.
but frankly, i wouldn't run 2 different 2wd buggies in the first place. id run the same brand for ease of maintenance, and the transfer of parts to save money and space in the box.
Last edited by jpcopeland1; 10-03-2016 at 10:44 AM.
10-03-2016, 10:41 AM
#3769
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
Have plenty of parts for both, and im not sold on the XB2 being better then the 22 3.0 laydown anywhere just yet. Once I drive both, I wil have a better idea of what to do, but as it stands now my TLR car is the best laydown of all the cars I have driven for my driving style. If the Xray proves otherwise I will rethink it, but I would need a laydown car, and to convert the xray will cost close to $100.00 and parts arent cheap, where as I already spent the money to change over the TLR. I like to try different buggies to see what each offers right now the B6, not much, pretty unstable as it goes and i've tried all of the setups out there for it, mainly sits on the shelf, and since the doubling of Yokomo parts cost my YZ-2 CA is shelved as well, still cheaper then xray, but nearly as expensive. What I dont want to have to do for the car is put hundreds into it after the initial purchase to make it work.
I found the TLR to cost WAY more in the end by the time you get all the parts you need. Car always tended to have a push and MUCH less steering than my XB2. Part of this is the hub design admitted by TLR to make the car less aggressive and easier to drive.
I found the B6 to be pretty darn solid all around and cost effective. Also you say you've tried all the setups? That's impossible, there's millions of different setup combinations, and there's MANY different factors, there's no one setup works for all. You have to find your own setup. That screams me a bit of inexperience right there.
I find the XRAY to have high parts cost, but the most durable and the best for carpet/astro and doable on clay with the laydown but it takes some serious tweaking to get it dialed on clay with the laydown in MOD.
10-03-2016, 12:16 PM
#3770
because I don't want to spend more money trying out different brands of pinions and end up not using some of them because they don't fit with the new 69T spur Xray offers. The lowest I can go with a 69T spur from an Exotek slipper eliminator is 33T pinion (Robinson).
10-03-2016, 12:50 PM
#3771
different strokes for different folks.
I found the TLR to cost WAY more in the end by the time you get all the parts you need. Car always tended to have a push and MUCH less steering than my XB2. Part of this is the hub design admitted by TLR to make the car less aggressive and easier to drive.
I found the B6 to be pretty darn solid all around and cost effective. Also you say you've tried all the setups? That's impossible, there's millions of different setup combinations, and there's MANY different factors, there's no one setup works for all. You have to find your own setup. That screams me a bit of inexperience right there.
I find the XRAY to have high parts cost, but the most durable and the best for carpet/astro and doable on clay with the laydown but it takes some serious tweaking to get it dialed on clay with the laydown in MOD.
I found the TLR to cost WAY more in the end by the time you get all the parts you need. Car always tended to have a push and MUCH less steering than my XB2. Part of this is the hub design admitted by TLR to make the car less aggressive and easier to drive.
I found the B6 to be pretty darn solid all around and cost effective. Also you say you've tried all the setups? That's impossible, there's millions of different setup combinations, and there's MANY different factors, there's no one setup works for all. You have to find your own setup. That screams me a bit of inexperience right there.
I find the XRAY to have high parts cost, but the most durable and the best for carpet/astro and doable on clay with the laydown but it takes some serious tweaking to get it dialed on clay with the laydown in MOD.
Last edited by jpcopeland1; 10-03-2016 at 10:23 PM.
10-04-2016, 09:51 AM
#3774
Got the build finished and noticed when I turn the wheels to the right, I cant get full lock, the steering bits bind up. I double and triple checked the build, and all is according to the manual, nothing is hitting anything. Checked the length of the tie rods and they are all 55mm (originally thought one might be a bit longer). It is off by 1mm almost exactly, left turn full lock with ease. Using a Savox, or Spektrum servo with supplied horns, both exhibit the same behavior. Running kit plastic bellcranks and steering arms. Any help about this issue would be great.
10-04-2016, 10:27 AM
#3776
Got the build finished and noticed when I turn the wheels to the right, I cant get full lock, the steering bits bind up. I double and triple checked the build, and all is according to the manual, nothing is hitting anything. Checked the length of the tie rods and they are all 55mm (originally thought one might be a bit longer). It is off by 1mm almost exactly, left turn full lock with ease. Using a Savox, or Spektrum servo with supplied horns, both exhibit the same behavior. Running kit plastic bellcranks and steering arms. Any help about this issue would be great.
If its not that, post some pics, that may help diagnose the issue.
10-04-2016, 01:11 PM
#3777
I know you said you double checked everything, but pay close attention to the steering blocks (page 23 in the manual) as it is very easy to install them backwards. It has happened to a few people, the part outside of the bearing is more square on one side, that goes out towards the wheel. This is the only thing I can think of.
If its not that, post some pics, that may help diagnose the issue.
If its not that, post some pics, that may help diagnose the issue.
Last edited by jpcopeland1; 10-04-2016 at 01:45 PM.
10-04-2016, 01:17 PM
#3778
If you have the wrong parts, thats not good. The axle bushings made a huge difference for me in steering. My Xb2 had much better steering with the long bushing on the top.
10-04-2016, 01:33 PM
#3779
Your partially right, it seems that I got 2 same sided steering blocks, switched them, and now turning left has the issue, and turning right gets full throw I temporarily fixed it by going axles up instead of kit settings. I have some hard blocks I want to use anyways. Will throw them in, and see what happens.
They all have 1 flat side and one beveled side.
Beveled side goes to the inside and flat side to the outside
Bent
10-05-2016, 04:14 AM
#3780
Got the build finished and noticed when I turn the wheels to the right, I cant get full lock, the steering bits bind up. I double and triple checked the build, and all is according to the manual, nothing is hitting anything. Checked the length of the tie rods and they are all 55mm (originally thought one might be a bit longer). It is off by 1mm almost exactly, left turn full lock with ease. Using a Savox, or Spektrum servo with supplied horns, both exhibit the same behavior. Running kit plastic bellcranks and steering arms. Any help about this issue would be great.