22LikesTekno RC EB48.3 Thread
03-13-2017, 12:03 AM - Wikipost
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12-15-2015, 09:03 AM
#916
yeah its not a problem, all you have to do is reverse the way you mount the plates to the car.
on a normal car they attach like this:
on the shockzilla you have to mount like this:
it means that when you read off the camber angle you will have to look from this perspective:
and seeing as the toe plate is reversed, you will want it set on the + positive side in order for it to be - negative or toe out.
also for best results make sure your chassis is sitting on the 30mm blocks for consistent results.
hope that helps
on a normal car they attach like this:
on the shockzilla you have to mount like this:
it means that when you read off the camber angle you will have to look from this perspective:
and seeing as the toe plate is reversed, you will want it set on the + positive side in order for it to be - negative or toe out.
also for best results make sure your chassis is sitting on the 30mm blocks for consistent results.
hope that helps
Little trick for those that don't want to spend the dough for the 30mm blocks , an old buggy wheel with one glue bead neatly trimmed off with scissors is right at 30mm. Use them anytime you make camber or toe adjustments with the wheels and tires on the car . Just put them under the chassis and push the car down while you make your adjustments. Makes things go pretty quick and much more accurate than the drop, crank , measure method
12-15-2015, 12:45 PM
#917
I have a question about the tapered 4 x 1.8mm shock pistons that come stock in the EB48.3.
Which direction Taper up-( / \ ) or taper down -( \ / ) will produce more rebound damping?
Which direction Taper up-( / \ ) or taper down -( \ / ) will produce more rebound damping?
12-15-2015, 01:45 PM
#919
The kit comes with alum vented shock caps tkr6003. The caps have a vent hole in top of the cap. You can buy aluminum non-vented shock caps tkr6003b or buy the plastic shock caps (tkr6018). If you want emulsion shocks, you have to buy the plastic caps (tkr6018) and drill according to the manual. The plastic shock caps are standard by default, but you can drill them according to the manual to achieve vented or emulsion shocks.
Thanks for explanation.
12-15-2015, 01:47 PM
#920
yeah its not a problem, all you have to do is reverse the way you mount the plates to the car.
on a normal car they attach like this:
on the shockzilla you have to mount like this:
it means that when you read off the camber angle you will have to look from this perspective:
and seeing as the toe plate is reversed, you will want it set on the + positive side in order for it to be - negative or toe out.
also for best results make sure your chassis is sitting on the 30mm blocks for consistent results.
hope that helps
on a normal car they attach like this:
on the shockzilla you have to mount like this:
it means that when you read off the camber angle you will have to look from this perspective:
and seeing as the toe plate is reversed, you will want it set on the + positive side in order for it to be - negative or toe out.
also for best results make sure your chassis is sitting on the 30mm blocks for consistent results.
hope that helps
I appreciate the visual. I actually tried doing that last night but I couldn't get it to work. I probably just had a brain fart. I will try it again.
12-15-2015, 02:24 PM
#921
Normal screws can get clogged with dirt, a hex is easier to clean off to remove. We did left and right threads because as the shock moves it tries to unthread the shock screws. If we didn't do the left hand threads on that side it would slowly unscrew.
Check your retaining nuts for the top of the shocks, I bet the side opposite the left handed bottom screw has to be re-tightened more often than the other.
Check your retaining nuts for the top of the shocks, I bet the side opposite the left handed bottom screw has to be re-tightened more often than the other.
12-15-2015, 02:24 PM
#922
Tech Initiate
Delete
Last edited by EricM; 12-15-2015 at 03:10 PM. Reason: Wrong forum
12-15-2015, 02:54 PM
#923
Tekno customer service is great, but not sure about Airtronics service.
Did you meant to post in this thread?
Did you meant to post in this thread?
12-15-2015, 07:04 PM
#924
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Steering
I've seen a few comments about lack of off power steering. Is that with using Joe Bornhorst Wicked NB48 setup? I never had the previous version of the EB so I can't compare to that. For me, off power wise, it was on par with my serpent. I did get some push on-power. I think it might be because I used Associated 7K in front and center diffs. It seems a little thicker than ptrc. In the process of changing that out. Anyway, I was able to go to a 2.5 sway bar in rear and that helped with the on power push. Once I get all the diff oil changed out, I will be curious to see how the .3 turns. I was just curious as to if the lack of off-power steering was occuring with Joe's setup and, if so, had anyone found a fix other than going to the .2 hubs and spindles or using 10 deg hubs?
12-15-2015, 07:12 PM
#925
I've seen a few comments about lack of off power steering. Is that with using Joe Bornhorst Wicked NB48 setup? I never had the previous version of the EB so I can't compare to that. For me, off power wise, it was on par with my serpent. I did get some push on-power. I think it might be because I used Associated 7K in front and center diffs. It seems a little thicker than ptrc. In the process of changing that out. Anyway, I was able to go to a 2.5 sway bar in rear and that helped with the on power push. Once I get all the diff oil changed out, I will be curious to see how the .3 turns. I was just curious as to if the lack of off-power steering was occuring with Joe's setup and, if so, had anyone found a fix other than going to the .2 hubs and spindles or using 10 deg hubs?
12-15-2015, 09:40 PM
#926
Guys, I am having an issue getting the shock lengths correct. I am trying to set my EB48.3 with the Lutz setup. It calls for the front and rear shocks to be 120mm and 134 respectively. I have tried different springs but not matter what I do I can't get the shocks near long enough. They're anywhere from 15-20 mm too short.
When measuring shocks what is the proper method? off the buggy or on?
When measuring shocks what is the proper method? off the buggy or on?
12-15-2015, 09:41 PM
#927
Guys, I am having an issue getting the shock lengths correct. I am trying to set my EB48.3 with the Lutz setup. It calls for the front and rear shocks to be 120mm and 134 respectively. I have tried different springs but not matter what I do I can't get the shocks near long enough. They're anywhere from 15-20 mm too short.
When measuring shocks what is the proper method? off the buggy or on?
When measuring shocks what is the proper method? off the buggy or on?
12-15-2015, 10:08 PM
#928
12-15-2015, 10:23 PM
#930
I played with the limit screws also, I just can't get the number. Its sitting at about 105 on the front now.