22LikesTekno RC EB48.3 Thread
03-13-2017, 12:03 AM - Wikipost
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09-22-2015, 04:14 AM
#346
09-22-2015, 05:18 AM
#347
i'm not sure if anyone can help me here.i just picked up the tlr clutch for ebuggy. only bad thing is the largest losi bell i can find is 16t. all the larger bells were discontinued. i use a 18t pinion on my eb48.2 and was going to try the clutch on the 48.3. anyone know if another bell will work on this clutch?
09-22-2015, 08:33 AM
#348
i'm not sure if anyone can help me here.i just picked up the tlr clutch for ebuggy. only bad thing is the largest losi bell i can find is 16t. all the larger bells were discontinued. i use a 18t pinion on my eb48.2 and was going to try the clutch on the 48.3. anyone know if another bell will work on this clutch?
09-22-2015, 11:27 PM
#353
anyone to measure the suspension travel ? front and rear
09-23-2015, 07:04 AM
#355
The 6 x 1.6's work well also. 32.5 to 35wt front and rear will get you close. I have settled on 35wt Losi front and rear on a rough, loose track.
My .2 setup, using the 6 x 1.5's worked really well for me. It is still about 0.5 to 0.8 seconds faster than my .3 on this track, despite the .3 feeling "better" in certain areas of the track (landing nose down and not crashing the chassis is the most noted improvement that I feel).
I tried the 4 x 1.8's, with the tapered side up, as recommended through most discussions here and in the pits. While they weren't bad, the "cupped" Tekno piston just feels better for my driving style.
My .3 is getting better and better. However it is still lacking some corner speed, keeping me off the pace I ran with the .2 and even more so, my ET48. If I can get the .3 to feel like my truggy, I can ease up on the test and tune days. Is nice to be able to show up with the truggy, charge a battery for the first heat and just race - no warmup or practice needed. Truggy setup also travels well. Unlike my buggy setups, going from an outdoor, rough, loose track to a smooth, indoor, sometimes blue groove track, the truggy setup needs very little (if any) adjustments from one to the other. Allows for more driving practice.
My .2 setup, using the 6 x 1.5's worked really well for me. It is still about 0.5 to 0.8 seconds faster than my .3 on this track, despite the .3 feeling "better" in certain areas of the track (landing nose down and not crashing the chassis is the most noted improvement that I feel).
I tried the 4 x 1.8's, with the tapered side up, as recommended through most discussions here and in the pits. While they weren't bad, the "cupped" Tekno piston just feels better for my driving style.
My .3 is getting better and better. However it is still lacking some corner speed, keeping me off the pace I ran with the .2 and even more so, my ET48. If I can get the .3 to feel like my truggy, I can ease up on the test and tune days. Is nice to be able to show up with the truggy, charge a battery for the first heat and just race - no warmup or practice needed. Truggy setup also travels well. Unlike my buggy setups, going from an outdoor, rough, loose track to a smooth, indoor, sometimes blue groove track, the truggy setup needs very little (if any) adjustments from one to the other. Allows for more driving practice.
09-23-2015, 09:15 AM
#357
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
Exactly. Which is why the folks who say reducing the anti-squat has improved the trucks nose down issue baffles me. With less anti-squat, more weight is shifted on to the rear springs and the rear of the truck will squat down. This should pronounce the rear of the chassis hitting the face of the jump.
09-23-2015, 09:33 AM
#358
Yes. Tekno's pistons, up until the new flat/tapered 4 x 1.8's have that "cupped" shape to them. From the black, plastic 10 x 1.2's found on the shock parts tree (from the kits), to the white delrin machined versions. They all have had that "cupped" shape (or bowl-like shape).
09-23-2015, 10:45 AM
#359
OK, done. Just ordered 48.3 - switching from 8ight 3.0e.
Just a few questions:
1. Are there any option parts I should consider?
2. Which parts to buy as spares?
3. What about diff pins: TKR5150 vs TKR5150A? Which will last longer and cause less problems?
Hope not to regret. Losi 3.0 was a good buggy, didn't brake one part during the whole season. The thing I was inconsistent with it (with Mugen I was much more consistent), it worn quickly and after 3-4 events was difficult to set up properly without replacing half of the car...
Just a few questions:
1. Are there any option parts I should consider?
2. Which parts to buy as spares?
3. What about diff pins: TKR5150 vs TKR5150A? Which will last longer and cause less problems?
Hope not to regret. Losi 3.0 was a good buggy, didn't brake one part during the whole season. The thing I was inconsistent with it (with Mugen I was much more consistent), it worn quickly and after 3-4 events was difficult to set up properly without replacing half of the car...
09-23-2015, 10:51 AM
#360
OK, done. Just ordered 48.3 - switching from 8ight 3.0e.
Just a few questions:
1. Are there any option parts I should consider?
2. Which parts to buy as spares?
3. What about diff pins: TKR5150 vs TKR5150A? Which will last longer and cause less problems?
Hope not to regret. Losi 3.0 was a good buggy, didn't brake one part during the whole season. The thing I was inconsistent with it (with Mugen I was much more consistent), it worn quickly and after 3-4 events was difficult to set up properly without replacing half of the car...
Just a few questions:
1. Are there any option parts I should consider?
2. Which parts to buy as spares?
3. What about diff pins: TKR5150 vs TKR5150A? Which will last longer and cause less problems?
Hope not to regret. Losi 3.0 was a good buggy, didn't brake one part during the whole season. The thing I was inconsistent with it (with Mugen I was much more consistent), it worn quickly and after 3-4 events was difficult to set up properly without replacing half of the car...