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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-22-2015, 05:14 AM   #346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Thanks ezlight that helps me alot. understanding diffs and oils what each weight is good for. Been chasing my setup with the new .3 for weeks now. my .2 was great but this .3 is a hand full.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:18 AM   #347
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i'm not sure if anyone can help me here.i just picked up the tlr clutch for ebuggy. only bad thing is the largest losi bell i can find is 16t. all the larger bells were discontinued. i use a 18t pinion on my eb48.2 and was going to try the clutch on the 48.3. anyone know if another bell will work on this clutch?
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Old 09-22-2015, 09:33 AM   #348
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i'm not sure if anyone can help me here.i just picked up the tlr clutch for ebuggy. only bad thing is the largest losi bell i can find is 16t. all the larger bells were discontinued. i use a 18t pinion on my eb48.2 and was going to try the clutch on the 48.3. anyone know if another bell will work on this clutch?
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Old 09-22-2015, 07:56 PM   #349
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Whats the reason for running higher weight oil in the rear shocks?
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:31 PM   #350
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Anybody driven the serpent 811be buggy? If so, can you give a comparison of the 811be vs the eb48.3?
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:18 PM   #351
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Whats the reason for running higher weight oil in the rear shocks?
More pack. Helps keep the rear of the chassis from slapping the face of the jump and going nose down.
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:04 AM   #352
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Still waiting on the last few parts I need for my .3 conversion.
Typically most setups had heavier oil in the front, but not so on the .3 from what I've seen.
My .2 I've been happy with 6x1.5 Ae 35 wt front, 32.5 rear.
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:27 AM   #353
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anyone to measure the suspension travel ? front and rear
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Old 09-23-2015, 04:50 AM   #354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOE View Post
Still waiting on the last few parts I need for my .3 conversion.
Typically most setups had heavier oil in the front, but not so on the .3 from what I've seen.
My .2 I've been happy with 6x1.5 Ae 35 wt front, 32.5 rear.
Your gonna want the 4x1.8 pistons and follow the box stock setup or another one listed. So far I've been running the Lutz Enats and has been great.

I originally started with the 6x1.5 pistons as well and did not like how it felt.
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:04 AM   #355
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The 6 x 1.6's work well also. 32.5 to 35wt front and rear will get you close. I have settled on 35wt Losi front and rear on a rough, loose track.

My .2 setup, using the 6 x 1.5's worked really well for me. It is still about 0.5 to 0.8 seconds faster than my .3 on this track, despite the .3 feeling "better" in certain areas of the track (landing nose down and not crashing the chassis is the most noted improvement that I feel).

I tried the 4 x 1.8's, with the tapered side up, as recommended through most discussions here and in the pits. While they weren't bad, the "cupped" Tekno piston just feels better for my driving style.

My .3 is getting better and better. However it is still lacking some corner speed, keeping me off the pace I ran with the .2 and even more so, my ET48. If I can get the .3 to feel like my truggy, I can ease up on the test and tune days. Is nice to be able to show up with the truggy, charge a battery for the first heat and just race - no warmup or practice needed. Truggy setup also travels well. Unlike my buggy setups, going from an outdoor, rough, loose track to a smooth, indoor, sometimes blue groove track, the truggy setup needs very little (if any) adjustments from one to the other. Allows for more driving practice.
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:32 AM   #356
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Thanks guys, I do have the new 4 x 1.8 pistons coming in,
Are the 6 x 1.6 pistons your talking about the old style?
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Old 09-23-2015, 10:15 AM   #357
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Quote:
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More pack. Helps keep the rear of the chassis from slapping the face of the jump and going nose down.
Exactly. Which is why the folks who say reducing the anti-squat has improved the trucks nose down issue baffles me. With less anti-squat, more weight is shifted on to the rear springs and the rear of the truck will squat down. This should pronounce the rear of the chassis hitting the face of the jump.
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Old 09-23-2015, 10:33 AM   #358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOE View Post
Thanks guys, I do have the new 4 x 1.8 pistons coming in,
Are the 6 x 1.6 pistons your talking about the old style?
Yes. Tekno's pistons, up until the new flat/tapered 4 x 1.8's have that "cupped" shape to them. From the black, plastic 10 x 1.2's found on the shock parts tree (from the kits), to the white delrin machined versions. They all have had that "cupped" shape (or bowl-like shape).
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Old 09-23-2015, 11:45 AM   #359
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OK, done. Just ordered 48.3 - switching from 8ight 3.0e.

Just a few questions:

1. Are there any option parts I should consider?
2. Which parts to buy as spares?
3. What about diff pins: TKR5150 vs TKR5150A? Which will last longer and cause less problems?

Hope not to regret. Losi 3.0 was a good buggy, didn't brake one part during the whole season. The thing I was inconsistent with it (with Mugen I was much more consistent), it worn quickly and after 3-4 events was difficult to set up properly without replacing half of the car...
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Old 09-23-2015, 11:51 AM   #360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanson View Post
OK, done. Just ordered 48.3 - switching from 8ight 3.0e.

Just a few questions:

1. Are there any option parts I should consider?
2. Which parts to buy as spares?
3. What about diff pins: TKR5150 vs TKR5150A? Which will last longer and cause less problems?

Hope not to regret. Losi 3.0 was a good buggy, didn't brake one part during the whole season. The thing I was inconsistent with it (with Mugen I was much more consistent), it worn quickly and after 3-4 events was difficult to set up properly without replacing half of the car...
The only things I can think of besides regular stuff you would keep on hand with any car like arms, etc are servo horn and springs. You might also want to get the .2 uprights and spindles to play with as a tuning option. They make the steering more agressive.
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