Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

first off, short course do not fly as well at buggy or ST. More people have issues with the sc5m nosing down. I have not heard of anyone with issues nosing up. It is probably how you jump it. And if it is a long big air jump, it is even harder. If you nose up on short jumps, you are probably on the throttle too long and accelerating up the face of the jump. But without driving your truck myself, that is about all i can suggest. Find a local driver that is good and have them run a few laps. And get their feedback.

twindad98

iTrader: (20)

I agree this truck is very sensitive to throttle inputs. I bought this truck after I had been running a b5m for a while and I didn't like it at first. It took a little while to get it to fly right. Most of the problem was my throttle but now I love the way it jumps.

boucher

Make sure the body air vents are trimmed too. You could just be parasailing.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I made my own. I am sure the wallie build one is good.

loopedeloop

I made mine from a b5m rear. Works good

blvdbuzzard

I got my B5m set in the mail today. I mounted it up front sort of like the pictures a few pages back. I now have them front and rear. Only took a couple extra screws and ball links. Works like it was made for it.

Buzz.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

It have it, it is great.

MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

Do you have any problems with the arms breaking? I see he's drilling a hole for the ballstud so that the bar will connect to the arm, and I was wondering if that creates a weak point?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

nah, I broke a front arm this week....but not at the ball stud hole. on the hinge pin like normal. Think the hinge pin will still be the break point.

MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

Ok thanks. I run on an outdoor asphalt track in a rally class with no jumps. I ran what I thought was a stiffer setup and won my main by lapping the field (this truck is awesome! lol) but I was told to go even stiffer. I currently have 80 weight oil in the front with a gray spring and 60 in the back, 1.5 pistons. I'm going to see how the truck reacts to these changes and then I'll determine if I still need a sway bar. I'm thinking probably so but I don't to throw a lot of changes at it all at once.

man1ac

Had another run with my SC5M, the guys fixed some broken clay (dry, wet, dry, extreme wet and extreme dry really messed it up). So we got sections which have good grip, like flat dried clay (good grip at my measures ) and loose stuff which makes it even hart to drive straight.

The SC5M didnt handle that well, kinda back to my problem loosing the rear when entering fast corners. I didnt want to do any tuning, cause my money is on the B5M and B6 someday. But at the moment I am just loosing confidence in the truck and think of selling it
Current setup is:

>front shocks 35wt and grey spring
>rear shocks 30wt and green spring
>ball diff just opened a notch, any more closed and its shut for good
> Hole Shots front and rear, standard plastic rims
> shorty at rear position

So its either sell it or make it the way I like it.
Thinking of adding brass c and d, increase rear toe to 3,5 (which wont help me just for acceleration?) Any more suggestions? I even think of trying to switch to gear diff with 5k...
@ Ray: you suggested 1.7 and 37,5wt for rear?

faron5M

iTrader: (2)

Any body in search of a fast ARTR. Check out the classifieds.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

Try turning down your dual rate on the steering so it doesn't turn as far. I have mine around 70. If I was at 100 it would wash on on the ass end, too much steering.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

I have not broke any arms.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I lowered my Dr also and used stop gap screws