Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
|
|||
#1126
Tech Regular
Kind of a weird question for you guys. I currently have a slash 4x4 used for bashing and general fun. How do you think this kit would do with a 3s and a 2400 4 pole castle motor. If my slash takes it I would think this would. I just sold my eb48.2 and am looking into a more durable short coarse truck for some high power playing.
By the way the 48.2 was a beast.
By the way the 48.2 was a beast.
#1127
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (45)
Kind of a weird question for you guys. I currently have a slash 4x4 used for bashing and general fun. How do you think this kit would do with a 3s and a 2400 4 pole castle motor. If my slash takes it I would think this would. I just sold my eb48.2 and am looking into a more durable short coarse truck for some high power playing.
By the way the 48.2 was a beast.
By the way the 48.2 was a beast.
i originally build my v1 with the intent to bash it, but it just didn't quite work out that way.
#1128
Tech Regular
i don't see why it would be an issue. you'd need to get the regular motor mount as opposed to the lcg mount that comes with the .3 kit and might want to get the aluminum center diff mount and upgrade the a,b,c&d blocks if you start to break them. consider your spring choices too when it comes to the extra battery and motor weight.
i originally build my v1 with the intent to bash it, but it just didn't quite work out that way.
i originally build my v1 with the intent to bash it, but it just didn't quite work out that way.
#1130
Tech Apprentice
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Germany near famous clay track of RCRT Duisburg
Posts: 63
I do prefer pinions with "extended boss" (Team Durango SC 10) because of the better centering of the pinion on the motor´s shaft.
#1132
Tech Apprentice
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Germany near famous clay track of RCRT Duisburg
Posts: 63
The beast Dynamic 10l...
Recently got my LRP Dynamic 10l 4600. I opened it up to inspect the used one. It is build very clean and got carbon fibre around the rotor. The gaps between the slots are filled with green cement. Windigs are parrallel and as short as possible. (Did you ever see a Tekin winding? Horrible!)
Installed it with a 14 teeth pinion an tested in the backyard.
I only could compare it to:
Reedy 550 3500 4 pole
LRP x12l 4700 2 pole
Tenshock 412 4600 4 pole
and it is has much more "punch". Would be very difficult to use on slippery, dusty tracks. Temperature was no problem because of the small pinion.
Installed it with a 14 teeth pinion an tested in the backyard.
I only could compare it to:
Reedy 550 3500 4 pole
LRP x12l 4700 2 pole
Tenshock 412 4600 4 pole
and it is has much more "punch". Would be very difficult to use on slippery, dusty tracks. Temperature was no problem because of the small pinion.
#1133
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Recently got my LRP Dynamic 10l 4600. I opened it up to inspect the used one. It is build very clean and got carbon fibre around the rotor. The gaps between the slots are filled with green cement. Windigs are parrallel and as short as possible. (Did you ever see a Tekin winding? Horrible!)
Installed it with a 14 teeth pinion an tested in the backyard.
I only could compare it to:
Reedy 550 3500 4 pole
LRP x12l 4700 2 pole
Tenshock 412 4600 4 pole
and it is has much more "punch". Would be very difficult to use on slippery, dusty tracks. Temperature was no problem because of the small pinion.
Installed it with a 14 teeth pinion an tested in the backyard.
I only could compare it to:
Reedy 550 3500 4 pole
LRP x12l 4700 2 pole
Tenshock 412 4600 4 pole
and it is has much more "punch". Would be very difficult to use on slippery, dusty tracks. Temperature was no problem because of the small pinion.
Also, I'm wondering what kind of run times it will get? I have a tekin 4300 pro4 hd with 18 tooth pinion, 6000mah smc battery and I can finish a 10min main with no problems. Believe I had about 3.6V per cell left. Please let me know if you have any info on that.
Thanks.
#1134
Tech Addict
iTrader: (21)
I've been looking at that motor for a while. However, I have a Tekin esc. I really want the data logging, especially the temps, but it seems like when i mix brands, the motor log data may not be correct. Do you know if the RX8 Gen2 accurately displays this motor's data?
Also, I'm wondering what kind of run times it will get? I have a tekin 4300 pro4 hd with 18 tooth pinion, 6000mah smc battery and I can finish a 10min main with no problems. Believe I had about 3.6V per cell left. Please let me know if you have any info on that.
Thanks.
Also, I'm wondering what kind of run times it will get? I have a tekin 4300 pro4 hd with 18 tooth pinion, 6000mah smc battery and I can finish a 10min main with no problems. Believe I had about 3.6V per cell left. Please let me know if you have any info on that.
Thanks.
#1136
Finished building my kit and have put 4 packs through it so far. The only issue I'm having is the loose rear end. It seems to be very nervous in the high speed sections. I'm running on medium/large outdoor tracks.
Everything is stock except for the shock oil (25r 35f) vented
Where should I start on tuning?
I was thinking of starting with the easiest to change
1) camber links
2)adjusting my toe and camber
3) moving rear Hubs
4) thinking about going to pink springs all around
This will be my first attempt at tuning so any input would be appreciated
Thanks guys
Everything is stock except for the shock oil (25r 35f) vented
Where should I start on tuning?
I was thinking of starting with the easiest to change
1) camber links
2)adjusting my toe and camber
3) moving rear Hubs
4) thinking about going to pink springs all around
This will be my first attempt at tuning so any input would be appreciated
Thanks guys
#1137
Finished building my kit and have put 4 packs through it so far. The only issue I'm having is the loose rear end. It seems to be very nervous in the high speed sections. I'm running on medium/large outdoor tracks.
Everything is stock except for the shock oil (25r 35f) vented
Where should I start on tuning?
I was thinking of starting with the easiest to change
1) camber links
2)adjusting my toe and camber
3) moving rear Hubs
4) thinking about going to pink springs all around
This will be my first attempt at tuning so any input would be appreciated
Thanks guys
Everything is stock except for the shock oil (25r 35f) vented
Where should I start on tuning?
I was thinking of starting with the easiest to change
1) camber links
2)adjusting my toe and camber
3) moving rear Hubs
4) thinking about going to pink springs all around
This will be my first attempt at tuning so any input would be appreciated
Thanks guys
#1138
#1139
Do a couple degrees toe out. A few degrees camber also. Make sure all your links are mounted where the book tells you. Also run your shocks where the book recommends.
First thing I did was change springs. I run Pink/Pink or even Black front/Pink Rear sometimes if I need more steering. Run about 25mm ride height.
I run 25 weight oil in the rear and 35 up front. A lot of guys are changing to different pistons but you don't have to.
Adjusting the D Block and adding more Rear toe will help plant the ass end. Also, make sure your running the proper tires for your track. My truck is very stable and the back is planted. But my truck likes to nosedive, and its a bit annoying.
First thing I did was change springs. I run Pink/Pink or even Black front/Pink Rear sometimes if I need more steering. Run about 25mm ride height.
I run 25 weight oil in the rear and 35 up front. A lot of guys are changing to different pistons but you don't have to.
Adjusting the D Block and adding more Rear toe will help plant the ass end. Also, make sure your running the proper tires for your track. My truck is very stable and the back is planted. But my truck likes to nosedive, and its a bit annoying.