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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-08-2015, 02:32 PM   #1831
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I think they will but you will need knuckles, axles, out drives etc. I think they are the same on the chassis side.
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Old 08-08-2015, 03:34 PM   #1832
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So the hinge pins will work but not the hubs? I will need longer turnbuckles and steering rods too.

MKL do you mind measuring them since you have both the truggy and the SCT? Thanks in advance.

I'm pretty interested in making a monster truck mod. We're talking about $100 in parts plus tires.

How much longer are the truggy arms?
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Old 08-08-2015, 03:47 PM   #1833
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Unfortunately I'm not near my cars, attending the NASCAR race in Watkins Glen. But both cars use the same gearboxes and inner hinge pins so I have to assume the inner part of the truggy arm will work on the SCT. You are right you will need new links as well.
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Old 08-08-2015, 03:55 PM   #1834
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Lucky race fan!

Thanks for the info.
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Old 08-08-2015, 04:27 PM   #1835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Backyard RC View Post
So the hinge pins will work but not the hubs? I will need longer turnbuckles and steering rods too.

MKL do you mind measuring them since you have both the truggy and the SCT? Thanks in advance.

I'm pretty interested in making a monster truck mod. We're talking about $100 in parts plus tires.

How much longer are the truggy arms?

The arms will fit yes. But you will need a few parts to do it,

For the rear you'll need: Arms,rear hubs,rear driveshafts/17mm Hexes, turnbuckles, outer bearings, new out drives for the diff to fit the new driveshafts, outer hinge pins.

Front: Arms, Spindles,spindle carriers, spindle bushes and spindle carrier bushes,17mm hexes,front driveshafts, bearings, out drives for the diffs.

You'll also need all the hardware to screw it together as some screws are larger etc

Also if you have the .3 I'd suggest upgrading the hingepin holders to alloy, as the extra force the arms will put on will break the plastic quite easily.

Cheers Justin
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Old 08-08-2015, 05:03 PM   #1836
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If anyone does this post pics
😀
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Old 08-09-2015, 12:47 AM   #1837
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Keep in mind that everything I listed above still may not work well as the longer arms will potentially give the shocks a longer swing radius so you may need the truggy shocks to get the suspension travel needed, so you may need to buy both towers and a set of truggy rear shocks and put the rear SCT shocks on the front.

And even after all that it still wouldn't be competitive on track with truggy said as it doesn't have the longer chassis etc.

In my opinion you'd be better to offload your SCT and buy either a new ET48.3 or a good used ET48 roller as they come available once the new model arrives.
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Old 08-09-2015, 01:16 AM   #1838
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Great thread with lots of amazing information. Thx everyone
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:16 AM   #1839
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So I've got my kit, now trying to decide on esc, motor & servo. I'm thinking on one of the protek waterproof ones, I have 2 in two of the Wp's-7701 in my yeti xl's and the end worked well. So I'm looking at castle systems due to being somewhat waterproof and the majority of my vehicles are all castle powered. I wanted to see what the take was on the consensus of what systems as it seems borderline between the SCT set ups and the MMP set ups. I'm not a racer as the only track near me is a 8th scale that is marginally kept up with, their time and effort are on the mx track. Basically I'll shave the lot next door and I've bought a couple of skateboard ramps and there is a ditch in the back of the lot so it works out. Keep in mind it's mostly for my 6 yo son. And the reason I like waterproof is it is a universally known law from the heavens if there is a water puddle within range of the transmitter or battery any kid and especially my son will somehow find the middle of it a full blazing speed....

Anyone! Any thoughts? I was thinking going bigger to keep the temps down when the grass gets to maybe 1.5-2" to keep me from having to scalp it every afternoon.

And yes, we have other vehicles, 3 yeti xl's, 2 yeti 1/10's, 4 8th scale truggies, 2 8th scale buggies, 2 ecx circuit 4wd converted to traxxas valen??? Power, a losi mini 8T, and 2 latrax rally's, and when I finish this build there will be 2 sct410's. The bug stuff is more fun at the track or the beach and he likes the sct for around here. I was thinking I need to look for some possibly wider and maybe slightly taller tires just in case as well. Anyway thanks for any input.
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Old 08-09-2015, 01:34 PM   #1840
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Thanks Jpm1,

That's a little more than I anticipated. Maybe down the road when I accumulate more parts.

Just floating ideas and this is the place to float them.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-09-2015, 05:12 PM   #1841
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is there a body that fits thesct410.3 that stays inside the front and rear bumpers?
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Old 08-09-2015, 07:03 PM   #1842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob4607 View Post
So I've got my kit, now trying to decide on esc, motor & servo. I'm thinking on one of the protek waterproof ones, I have 2 in two of the Wp's-7701 in my yeti xl's and the end worked well. So I'm looking at castle systems due to being somewhat waterproof and the majority of my vehicles are all castle powered. I wanted to see what the take was on the consensus of what systems as it seems borderline between the SCT set ups and the MMP set ups. I'm not a racer as the only track near me is a 8th scale that is marginally kept up with, their time and effort are on the mx track. Basically I'll shave the lot next door and I've bought a couple of skateboard ramps and there is a ditch in the back of the lot so it works out. Keep in mind it's mostly for my 6 yo son. And the reason I like waterproof is it is a universally known law from the heavens if there is a water puddle within range of the transmitter or battery any kid and especially my son will somehow find the middle of it a full blazing speed....

Anyone! Any thoughts? I was thinking going bigger to keep the temps down when the grass gets to maybe 1.5-2" to keep me from having to scalp it every afternoon.

And yes, we have other vehicles, 3 yeti xl's, 2 yeti 1/10's, 4 8th scale truggies, 2 8th scale buggies, 2 ecx circuit 4wd converted to traxxas valen??? Power, a losi mini 8T, and 2 latrax rally's, and when I finish this build there will be 2 sct410's. The bug stuff is more fun at the track or the beach and he likes the sct for around here. I was thinking I need to look for some possibly wider and maybe slightly taller tires just in case as well. Anyway thanks for any input.
The castle sidewinder sct has PLENTY of kick for the buck and especially for a 6 y/o he won't need anymore I am also running the protek 130t and it's a great servo. I will say with the castle I am a good bit slower than others(tekin) on the straight but it is still fast enough to be competitive.(dry dusty eighth scale outdoor track)


On an unrelated note have any of y'all had an issue with the 410.3 being top heavy? I am riding relatively low but still it seems extremely top heavy.

Oh and I still nose down hard

Last edited by theboss13; 08-09-2015 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:35 PM   #1843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toofless View Post
is there a body that fits thesct410.3 that stays inside the front and rear bumpers?
The bumper is designed to be inside the front of the body. Unless you mounted the body way back, the bumper would be exposed, you'd have to trim out the grille area. But the wheel wells won't line up with the tires, so it wouldn't work out unless you trimmed out the wheel wells too. And it would look goofy.
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:31 PM   #1844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toofless View Post
is there a body that fits thesct410.3 that stays inside the front and rear bumpers?
Running a body that stays behind the front bumper just causes the body to break faster and in more areas.
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Old 08-10-2015, 01:46 AM   #1845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theboss13 View Post
What motor, esc, and battery are you running now?(I've been running a 1410 castle and the sidewinder sct esc and still suffering from the problem)
Running a LRP DYNAMIC 10 4800kv and an LRP Flow WT, Turnigy 4600 shorty 90c, Car is as fast as the other ones. Motor gets a little bit warmer then the big cans, but still ok in a 6Min race. (Without fan at about 30 Celsius, astro track, straight about 65m, 14 teeth pinion). The wight is in the back as much as possible, spring is pink.


Car went great this weekend,
BUT:
just some little, hard "Bumps" about 10cm high and 40cm wide, and the "nose down" was dramatic. Changed oil in the back to 300cst: a little bit better. Moved the upper mount of the suspension inward: not better, reduced the travel: the problem was amplified. Changed everything without the oil back and get 3. overall (just 5 competitors).

Planed my next changes:
Building some pistons 4x1,8, oil: more cst, building a "bump" for testing in the backyard.

You can see my car in this Youtube video: http://youtu.be/Yjx15m04iRU
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Last edited by FAO; 08-10-2015 at 02:00 AM. Reason: add video link
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