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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 05-15-2015, 07:30 PM
  #826  
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
They actually have a set for the SCT410 now, http://www.prolineracing.com/perform...-tekno-sct410/.
Now you tell me.....
thx
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Old 05-16-2015, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Nissanguy8
yea I think I will just build it stock, I am not a basher and just practice at the local indoor clay track, so I don't anticipate a lot of breakage. I was just wondering if there were some sure parts to replace because they might be a weak spot but it appears the truck is still pretty new to tell and the 1st generation was damn tough, I was actually thinking of buying a used 1st gen 410 to use as in outdoor track truck.

Are there any interchangeable parts between the 410 and the .3? Diffs? arms? driveshafts?
As some have mentioned already, a lot can go between the two. Most of the upgrades that people did to the v1 trucks are in the 410.3.

There are 2 spots on the .3 that will be slightly less robust than the v1:
Front front "A" hinge pin holder (v1 had aluminum in the box)
Diff cross pins (v1 had steel pins)

I'm just building mine stock to start with. I was going to get both the cross pins and the front brace, but I figured I would wait for now after reports of really good wear on the composite cross pins (which other manufacturers have used without issue as well). If you're still in a spot where you crash a bunch, then I recommend that front most hinge pin holder.

Lastly, NorCal is my home track, so if you see all the yellow vehicles feel free to come over and say hi and ask any other questions. I've just finished up my .3 except for electronics and shocks, so hope to get it going for Wed or Fri to try out complete stock.
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Old 05-16-2015, 12:11 PM
  #828  
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Default First track day loom

On may, 12. and 13. i was able to dirve on my nearby very bumpy and dusty new build track. ( With the new aluminium A-brace) The car had a lot of steer to much.
Changed rear diff oil to 3000: a little bit better
Changed rear Springs to pink: better
Canged front springs to black and oil to 27,5: much better
Got the rear swaybar out: good
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:22 PM
  #829  
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Default Any one on that could help ?

So i am on I in the book an step I-1 looking at the rubber O-ring does it go in the servo saver post or does it go inside the screw on nut on the servo saver spring post an if it does go inside then how doe u put it inside thanks guys
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:08 PM
  #830  
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anyone having trouble with center diff wobble. had it apart several times just touching chassis cutout .
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Aswild
So i am on I in the book an step I-1 looking at the rubber O-ring does it go in the servo saver post or does it go inside the screw on nut on the servo saver spring post an if it does go inside then how doe u put it inside thanks guys
there's a groove cut on the inside of the nut that the oring fits into. put it in there before threading the nut onto the post.
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TheCore
there's a groove cut on the inside of the nut that the oring fits into. put it in there before threading the nut onto the post.
Cool got it, what about locktite did u use it an if so how?
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Aswild
Cool got it, what about locktite did u use it an if so how?
where metal threads to metal always use thread lock. put a small dab just below where the nuts final position will be, then as you thread the nut to it's final position it will spin through the area with thread lock and be evenly distributed between the threads as it dries. don't over do it, a small dab is all you need.
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TheCore
where metal threads to metal always use thread lock. put a small dab just below where the nuts final position will be, then as you thread the nut to it's final position it will spin through the area with thread lock and be evenly distributed between the threads as it dries. don't over do it, a small dab is all you need.

Great thanks Core that works,,also thanks for fast an speedy response
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:31 PM
  #835  
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Originally Posted by Aswild
Great thanks Core that works,,also thanks for fast an speedy response
good luck with her and post pics when ya can there's very little .3 porn on these pages.
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Old 05-16-2015, 08:23 PM
  #836  
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Ran my .3 today for the first time on a small carpet track. Truck ran fantastic in the box stock setup. Used vented bladder shocks with stock oils.
Did strip the servo horn on the second battery. Installed an aluminum one and never had a problem the rest of the day.
Drove against my friends v1 and we swapped trucks back and forth, and he said my truck felt lighter and seemed faster with almost the same setups.
Ran about 5 packs thru it, and only problem was servo horn, so very very happy with it.
And this version is built like a tank just like the earlier version. Big plus. Lol
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Old 05-17-2015, 04:57 AM
  #837  
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Originally Posted by rcdave905
Ran my .3 today for the first time on a small carpet track. Truck ran fantastic in the box stock setup. Used vented bladder shocks with stock oils.
Did strip the servo horn on the second battery. Installed an aluminum one and never had a problem the rest of the day.
Drove against my friends v1 and we swapped trucks back and forth, and he said my truck felt lighter and seemed faster with almost the same setups.
Ran about 5 packs thru it, and only problem was servo horn, so very very happy with it.
And this version is built like a tank just like the earlier version. Big plus. Lol
I will have to order a horn to then ,thanks
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Old 05-17-2015, 07:22 AM
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Here is a video of the track I was driving at yesterday, my truck isn't in the video its just so you can see the surface. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQeLEeAa_CQ

Its hard with a loose top. I needed to go up to pink springs in the rear.
The truck felt great but it needed a different driving style for me than the original. I felt I had to be much smoother on the throttle coming upto the jumps, it could have been the faces of the jumps too.

other than the pink springs I was running box stock. everything held up great.
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:12 AM
  #839  
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Default M2C 17MM HEX ADAPTORS FOR THE SCT410.3



M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of our 17mm hex adaptors
for the SCT 410.3 truck

these 17 MM HEX ADAPTORS FITS 6 MM AXLES FROM kit INCLUDES (4) 17MM NUTS AND (4) 17MM HEX ADAPTORS AND (4) RETAINER 5mm nuts

THIS IS A DIRECT BOLT ON SYSTEM . USES THE STOCK PIN . THE HEX NUTS ARE HELD ON TO THE AXLE WITH THE SMALL END CAPS THAT

SCREW TO THE 5 MM AXLE. this is a side load pin hole that is retained by a 3 mm set screw.

You may not be able to run the 6 mm shim with the side load as this is a very close demension.

THE 17MM HEX NUTS ARE A SURE LOCK DESIGN THAT WILL GREATLY REDUCE THE CHANCE OF THE NUT BACKING OFF. ANODIZED BLACK

m2c 6700
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Old 05-17-2015, 04:09 PM
  #840  
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Raced my .3 for the second time today. First outting was horrible. So changes for today, was last night I changed pistons to 6x15's in the rear with 350cst oil. Ran it like that for the first heat, it was better, but not quite where I wanted it. Changed to green rear springs, and she was almost spot on where I wanted it. It handled exactly how I expected it to from box, and was very predictable. Accept for a couple bonehead moves by the driver, it was a great day of racing. The rest of the truck is box stock, even ride height.

Thanks to fastpete, for the truck, and the PT racing oils, and tekno springs so I could play around a little bit. I finally had people looking my way, as I won both heats I was in, and held 2nd place for 90% of the main, but fell back to 4th place due to a boneheaded off track excursion...

For those assembling their trucks, i would start with 350cst in the rear, it'll get you close.
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