219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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06-05-2017, 01:32 PM
#4997
[QUOTE=Cain;14941496]last few times I have done this I have used jb weld. If the oil pushes past that we got bigger problems 
I have heard of people using toothpicks broken off into the holes and then glue or something similar to seal it up.[/QUOTE
JB weld worked perfectly, thanks!
I have heard of people using toothpicks broken off into the holes and then glue or something similar to seal it up.[/QUOTE
JB weld worked perfectly, thanks!
06-06-2017, 09:31 AM
#4999
It will have an effect, negative or positive really depends on what kickup angle and camber link position you're running as well as your driving style.
Also I'm assuming you mean the washers that sit in between the ball stud and the spindle and the ball stud and the ackermann plate, not the ones between the ball stud and the head of the screws.
Also I'm assuming you mean the washers that sit in between the ball stud and the spindle and the ball stud and the ackermann plate, not the ones between the ball stud and the head of the screws.
06-06-2017, 01:53 PM
#5000
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
What do the ones between the screw head do? Are they not part of the bump steer equation?
Also can someone explain diff fluid. As in is it better to go lower or higher cst if your breaking traction easily?
Like trying to get on the gas out of a corner and the rear is breaking loose would a lower or higher CST benefit
Also can someone explain diff fluid. As in is it better to go lower or higher cst if your breaking traction easily?
Like trying to get on the gas out of a corner and the rear is breaking loose would a lower or higher CST benefit
06-06-2017, 04:15 PM
#5001
What do the ones between the screw head do? Are they not part of the bump steer equation?
Also can someone explain diff fluid. As in is it better to go lower or higher cst if your breaking traction easily?
Like trying to get on the gas out of a corner and the rear is breaking loose would a lower or higher CST benefit
Also can someone explain diff fluid. As in is it better to go lower or higher cst if your breaking traction easily?
Like trying to get on the gas out of a corner and the rear is breaking loose would a lower or higher CST benefit
Here's a resource that helped me understand diffs in the past.
http://www.myrcbox.com/articles/tech-article-diff-tuning-guide-for-buggy-and-truggy/
06-07-2017, 04:18 AM
#5002
What do the ones between the screw head do? Are they not part of the bump steer equation?
Also can someone explain diff fluid. As in is it better to go lower or higher cst if your breaking traction easily?
Like trying to get on the gas out of a corner and the rear is breaking loose would a lower or higher CST benefit
Also can someone explain diff fluid. As in is it better to go lower or higher cst if your breaking traction easily?
Like trying to get on the gas out of a corner and the rear is breaking loose would a lower or higher CST benefit
If the rear wants to pass the front at when you get on the gas a thinner center diff will help, but be aware you can go too light on the center diff and won't have any forward drive.
06-07-2017, 02:49 PM
#5003
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
The angle of the link compared to the ground is the bump steer, the more the link is angled inwards (steering rack end lower than the outside end) the more bump steer you will have and vice versa.
If the rear wants to pass the front at when you get on the gas a thinner center diff will help, but be aware you can go too light on the center diff and won't have any forward drive.
If the rear wants to pass the front at when you get on the gas a thinner center diff will help, but be aware you can go too light on the center diff and won't have any forward drive.
I have 7-7-3 in the diffs now
06-07-2017, 09:15 PM
#5004
i feel like some of you got the wrong idea about what different diff fluid are doing. Heavier diff fluid in the rear acts more like a locker. Thus laying more equal power down from side to side. This would make the rear end drive harder overall and would give more push. This makes the vehicle have a snap ability on power that would cause the rearend to whip around with aggressive throttle input and accelerate quicker down the straights. If power however will suffer through turns and or make it more difficult to stabilize on lose tracks. If you go light, it will handle easier and rotate better off power. But you will lose acceleration on the straights out over jump faces out of a turn.
The front acts similar in the way heavy will pull harder around turns on power, but will push off power and vice versa for lighter fluid. The center diff has more to do with power distribution to the front and rear. If you're to light, the front tires will balloon. To heavy and the rear will out drive the front on acceleration and make it hard top drive on loser tracks. for turning, you should really consider rear toe adjustment. The less toe in you have the broader the slip angel becomes, thus the better it will rotate. Turning has always had more to do with the rearend slip angles than it does with the front contrary to what most think.
The front acts similar in the way heavy will pull harder around turns on power, but will push off power and vice versa for lighter fluid. The center diff has more to do with power distribution to the front and rear. If you're to light, the front tires will balloon. To heavy and the rear will out drive the front on acceleration and make it hard top drive on loser tracks. for turning, you should really consider rear toe adjustment. The less toe in you have the broader the slip angel becomes, thus the better it will rotate. Turning has always had more to do with the rearend slip angles than it does with the front contrary to what most think.
06-09-2017, 04:35 PM
#5006
Alright so we managed to get a heat and a main in and it was quite fun. Track conditions were black dirt that when wet was like glue. It was so sticky that it bound up my drivetrain towards the end of the heat and had to be pried off.
I'll post more info later, but right now I need a bit more consistent rear end during turns as sometimes I would get the rear end ot break free a bit unpredictably and need a bit more low speed rotation.
I'll post more info later, but right now I need a bit more consistent rear end during turns as sometimes I would get the rear end ot break free a bit unpredictably and need a bit more low speed rotation.
06-09-2017, 09:06 PM
#5007
Edit: wrong thread. Sorry!
06-10-2017, 10:28 AM
#5008
Mods
Is there a company that makes a nice battery strap/hold down that is not Velcro? I have a 2s setup and would love to ditch the stock setup, for maybe a carbon fiber type setup like the 1/10 buggies. Thanks!
06-10-2017, 03:18 PM
#5009
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Wherever my alien friends take me.
Posts: 1,748
Trader Rating: 53 (100%+)
My SCT410 (first gen) that I had, I used the carbon fiber battery strap, posts, and thumb nuts for. Losi SCTE. I had to drill/countersink for the front post an it worked great.
06-10-2017, 04:05 PM
#5010
Alright got a bit of time here after ribfest. Didn't go race today so hope to do that next week.
Here is are some pics of the track and conditions, first pic is what was a bit overwatered:
This is how it was run saturday and I think how it will be going forward:
As I mentioned, the biggest issue I experienced outside of the packing of dirt into the drive shafts was not enough rotation but then a slight inconsistently of the rear end on power trying to step out.
Outside of that, vehicle was great.
Here is are some pics of the track and conditions, first pic is what was a bit overwatered:
This is how it was run saturday and I think how it will be going forward:
As I mentioned, the biggest issue I experienced outside of the packing of dirt into the drive shafts was not enough rotation but then a slight inconsistently of the rear end on power trying to step out.
Outside of that, vehicle was great.