Team Associated B44.3 Factory Team Thread
#527
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Build tip:
When building the centre diff on the 44.3. You'll find that the bearings that go around the out drives are very very snug.
The 3/8x5/8 bearings struggle to fit over the washers between the out drive and the gear diff case. You'll need to give them a helping hand. Easiest thing to do is give the bearings a few good taps with a flat head on the inside run of the bearing.
When building the centre diff on the 44.3. You'll find that the bearings that go around the out drives are very very snug.
The 3/8x5/8 bearings struggle to fit over the washers between the out drive and the gear diff case. You'll need to give them a helping hand. Easiest thing to do is give the bearings a few good taps with a flat head on the inside run of the bearing.
#531
6 months???
How long does it take you to cook minute rice,two weeks??
How long does it take you to cook minute rice,two weeks??
#536
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Further to my previous post, I suggest anyone building the car with the supplied gear diffs, put the outdrive bearings on the plastic casing before installing the outdrive.
I spoken to a few people who have had the same issue, will save you having to force the bearing past the washers between the outdrive and the plastic casing.
All in all a great build though. I've opted for ball diffs front and rear, as our track conditions here suit them better compared to gear diffs.
New shocks like on the B5 are great and super smooth. The updated "grey" style ball cups look nice. I've thrown on a B5 ball stud and ball cup kit. Takes every little bit of slop out. All you need is 8x 8mm and 4x 6mm hd ballstuds, 6 M3 lock nuts. And a M3 thread tap screw for the locknut under the steering spindle. Some slight shaving is required on the inside ball cups so they don't fowl the top decks.
Going to try the RPM front arms, first impression of them on the car is very nice. Beefy, not super flexy like i thought. And the snug fit they have really firms up the front end.
Even if this being called a "stop gap" till the new platform comes out. Everyone will be very pleased with this latest update. Would go down as a great swan song in my books.
I spoken to a few people who have had the same issue, will save you having to force the bearing past the washers between the outdrive and the plastic casing.
All in all a great build though. I've opted for ball diffs front and rear, as our track conditions here suit them better compared to gear diffs.
New shocks like on the B5 are great and super smooth. The updated "grey" style ball cups look nice. I've thrown on a B5 ball stud and ball cup kit. Takes every little bit of slop out. All you need is 8x 8mm and 4x 6mm hd ballstuds, 6 M3 lock nuts. And a M3 thread tap screw for the locknut under the steering spindle. Some slight shaving is required on the inside ball cups so they don't fowl the top decks.
Going to try the RPM front arms, first impression of them on the car is very nice. Beefy, not super flexy like i thought. And the snug fit they have really firms up the front end.
Even if this being called a "stop gap" till the new platform comes out. Everyone will be very pleased with this latest update. Would go down as a great swan song in my books.
#538
I supect this car will be like a lot of 1:1 cars right before a major rebuild model year-- Most of weak areas are addressed making it a great car to have.
#539
Tech Initiate
Further to my previous post, I suggest anyone building the car with the supplied gear diffs, put the outdrive bearings on the plastic casing before installing the outdrive.
I spoken to a few people who have had the same issue, will save you having to force the bearing past the washers between the outdrive and the plastic casing
I spoken to a few people who have had the same issue, will save you having to force the bearing past the washers between the outdrive and the plastic casing
#540
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
Further to my previous post, I suggest anyone building the car with the supplied gear diffs, put the outdrive bearings on the plastic casing before installing the outdrive.
I spoken to a few people who have had the same issue, will save you having to force the bearing past the washers between the outdrive and the plastic casing.
All in all a great build though. I've opted for ball diffs front and rear, as our track conditions here suit them better compared to gear diffs.
New shocks like on the B5 are great and super smooth. The updated "grey" style ball cups look nice. I've thrown on a B5 ball stud and ball cup kit. Takes every little bit of slop out. All you need is 8x 8mm and 4x 6mm hd ballstuds, 6 M3 lock nuts. And a M3 thread tap screw for the locknut under the steering spindle. Some slight shaving is required on the inside ball cups so they don't fowl the top decks.
Going to try the RPM front arms, first impression of them on the car is very nice. Beefy, not super flexy like i thought. And the snug fit they have really firms up the front end.
Even if this being called a "stop gap" till the new platform comes out. Everyone will be very pleased with this latest update. Would go down as a great swan song in my books.
I spoken to a few people who have had the same issue, will save you having to force the bearing past the washers between the outdrive and the plastic casing.
All in all a great build though. I've opted for ball diffs front and rear, as our track conditions here suit them better compared to gear diffs.
New shocks like on the B5 are great and super smooth. The updated "grey" style ball cups look nice. I've thrown on a B5 ball stud and ball cup kit. Takes every little bit of slop out. All you need is 8x 8mm and 4x 6mm hd ballstuds, 6 M3 lock nuts. And a M3 thread tap screw for the locknut under the steering spindle. Some slight shaving is required on the inside ball cups so they don't fowl the top decks.
Going to try the RPM front arms, first impression of them on the car is very nice. Beefy, not super flexy like i thought. And the snug fit they have really firms up the front end.
Even if this being called a "stop gap" till the new platform comes out. Everyone will be very pleased with this latest update. Would go down as a great swan song in my books.
Hope the problem with too big shim is only in center diff, because the front and rear needs to be shim up properly for good spacing between gears. I think it's crucial in gear diffs, running durangos in mine for 1 year and no sign of use. If the gears are too tight they wont last long
What Andrew is referring to is just sliding the bearing over the shims, the OD of the shims is just under the ID of the bearing for it to slip over, however, it seems that the ID of the shims has come out a little bigger than it should be and that allows the shim to float to one side a little more which then makes it harder to slide the bearing over unless the shims are perfectly aligned.
As mention by Andrew, putting the bearing on before the outdrive is easier, but a small tap will usually get it over. Also, the shims are stamped out and sometimes will have just the tiniest burr, taking a file to the outside edge of the shim may help in some cases.
@Jesse: I believe some kits are shipped out internationally first to try and time it so that everyone can get them at the same time. Perhaps shipping arrived earlier than expected?