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Team Associated B44.3 Factory Team Thread

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Team Associated B44.3 Factory Team Thread

Old 07-15-2014, 02:22 PM
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Default Team Associated B44.3 Factory Team Thread



B44.3 Factory Team

1:10 Scale 4WD Electric Off Road Competition Buggy Kit

3-Time I.F.M.A.R. World Champion & 4-Time R.O.A.R. National Champion!

The RC10B44 has created a winning legacy with three I.F.M.A.R. World Championships, four R.O.A.R. National titles, and countless regional wins to its credit! Since winning the 2013 I.F.M.A.R. World Championships, the designers behind the doors of Area 51 set out to further improve the B44 and take it to an even higher level of performance.

Enter the RC10B44.3 Factory Team Kit, the latest evolution of Team Associated’s 1:10 4WD electric off road competition buggy. The most significant changes are found on the new hard-anodized aluminum chassis, which helps lower the center of gravity to improve handling and durability. The chassis has been designed to have symmetrical torsional flex to improve handling consistency — the new floating motor mount, floating servo mount, and chassis machining help to provide the desired flex symmetry.

Power and traction have continued to improve, so the B44.3’s drivetrain has been built up and refined to keep up with the demand of today’s high-traction off-road tracks. A set of four precision CVA’s transfer the power from the gear differentials via ball bearings throughout the car.

Now the B44.3 is even more adaptable to multiple racing conditions with the adjustable weight bias feature. Weight bias can be significantly altered by using either the front motor configuration with a saddle pack or the rear motor configuration with a shorty pack. The B44.3 is also backwards compatible with the previous generation VTS slipper clutch (not included) and ball differentials (not included), making the B44.3 extremely versatile and adaptable to any track condition.

Factory Team V2 12mm big bore shocks have improved smoothness, improving suspension travel and increasing overall traction. Lastly, the B44.3 comes with the latest JConcepts Finnisher X-Flow body and AE 6.5” high downforce wing.

The RC10B44.3 has been given all of the design advantages that only a winning pedigree like Team Associated can provide. If you are ready to take your 1:10 4WD off-road program up to the next level, the B44.3 is ready to take you there!

Features
  • Hard-anodized aluminum chassis and 7075-T6 floating motor mount allows for front or rear motor configurations
  • New molded battery trays accommodate 2S saddle or shorty battery pack configurations and feature a quick-change strap with locking thumb knobs
  • New front and rear carbon-fiber top decks and floating servo mount improves symmetrical chassis flex
  • Center gear differential has independent fluid cap for quick and easy fluid or gear changes
  • JConcepts Finnisher X-flow body
  • Factory Team 0 deg. 7075-T6 aluminum rear hubs with oversize outer bearing
  • Factory Team V2 12mm Big Bore threaded aluminum shocks with 3mm shock shafts, molded caps with bleed screws, and updated O-rings for improved smoothness
  • Full CVAs and ball bearing drivetrain
  • Factory Team 12mm blue aluminum rear clamping hexes and 12mm hex rear wheels
  • Factory Team blue titanium turnbuckles, aluminum servo mounts, aluminum shock pivot balls and rear anti-roll bar included
  • Front and rear gear differentials have machined steel ring, pinion, and planetary gears


















PDF on the Different Layouts:
PDF On Different Layouts

B44.2 to B44.3 Conversion Chart





MANUAL:

B44.3 FT Manual

BUILD TIPS:

Originally Posted by Andrew Selvaggi View Post
When building the centre diff on the 44.3. You'll find that the bearings that go around the out drives are very very snug.
The 3/8x5/8 bearings struggle to fit over the washers between the out drive and the gear diff case. You'll need to give them a helping hand. Easiest thing to do is give the bearings a few good taps with a flat head on the inside run of the bearing.
Originally Posted by Andrew Selvaggi View Post
Further to my previous post, I suggest anyone building the car with the supplied gear diffs, put the outdrive bearings on the plastic casing before installing the outdrive.
I spoken to a few people who have had the same issue, will save you having to force the bearing past the washers between the outdrive and the plastic casing.

New shocks like on the B5 are great and super smooth. The updated "grey" style ball cups look nice. I've thrown on a B5 ball stud and ball cup kit. Takes every little bit of slop out. All you need is 8x 8mm and 4x 6mm hd ballstuds, 6 M3 lock nuts. And a M3 thread tap screw for the locknut under the steering spindle. Some slight shaving is required on the inside ball cups so they don't fowl the top decks.
Originally Posted by Ashalak View Post
Just a couple thoughts on the build which I think it's worth sharing with you guys;

I ended up only using 1x of the #9888 0.5mm shims (Actually 0.2mm) on the drivecups in each diff, this is because with the pictured 2x #9888's I found the diff bound a little too much for my liking after having forced the #9937 diff pin through either the cup or main diff gear. I made sure to keep the internal shimming the same, so the two #9888's behind the sun gear where still used and the shimming felt spot on as such. I would also recommend putting the bearings on both the drivecups and main diff gear before you assemble the drivecups, this is because the bearings internal diameter is slightly smaller than the external diameter of the #9888's which you need to get past in order to complete the diff. You can force them over with some effort, but it's definitely easier building up before hand (Like you would with a conventional 1/8 diff).

Also pay close attention to the shimming of the diffs inside of the gearbox casing's, I found my front diff was perfect with the recommended 3x #3911's on both sides of the diff, but the rear was a little tight so I swapped one shim onto the cup side to give me a little more play - Having said that I'll be re-checking after a few packs and it may need to be swapped round again.

When building the centre diff with heavy weight diff fluid such as that recommended, make sure you pre-apply as much oil as you can onto the diff gears and into the cup before you put the two together. I filled it as I have done with every other gear diff which I've built, and quickly wondered where all the oil went after building it! The oil is so thick it doesn't penetrate into the diff cup, which is why you apply as much as you can before trying to pack it into the cup with the gears installed.

Other than the diffs the rest of the build has been pretty smooth, the only other section I found myself frustrated with was the CVD's, which if you haven't had a B44 before doesn't clearly illustrate that the longer CVD axles are meant to be installed onto the shorter rear driveshaft's, where as the shorter one's are for the front. I actually had an original B44 when it first came out, but it's been so long that I had forgotten this and quickly had to flick through the manual to try and figure it out!
Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Originally Posted by BRSracing View Post
Who has used the b5 ballcups and studs? and is it worth converting

and what size studs are needed?
Most definitely worth converting, no slop and risk of popped ballcup is greatly reduced. You will need the ballcups and (12) 8mm B5 ballstuds. If you have the JC aluminum rack, replace (2) 8mm studs with (2) 10mm studs. If you use the rear CF hub tower, replace (2) 8mm studs with (2) 6mm studs. you will need 3mm nuts but for the steering hubs you can either tap the 4-40 nuts with 3mm tap or Dremel down a 3mm nut to fit. Tapping would be easier. I would suggest getting two packs of the B5 ballcups to avoid using the "bent" ones or you can use those on the rear hub tower. your choice.
Originally Posted by Fabulous View Post
Originally Posted by buckeyeboy30 View Post
Can someone list the part # for the b5 ballcups and studs to put on this car and how meany of each?
ASC91453 (2pkg.) Ball cups
ASC91047 (6) 6mm Ball Studs
ASC91048 (8) 8mm Ball Studs
ASC25215 (1pkg.) 3mm nuts
ASC91455 (1pkg.) Steering Link

8mm in;
(2) Rear Hubs. (if using carbon fiber mount use 6mm w/3mm nut)
(2) Front Caster Block w/3mm nut
(2) Front Steering Block w/4-40 nut tap to 3mm
(2) Steering link w/2mm spacer.
(if using JC steering rack also use a 3mm nut)

6mm in;
(4) Top decks w/3mm nut
(1) Servo horn w/3mm nut
(1) Steering rack (servo saver lower)
(if using JC rack tap w/3mm tap)
SET-UP SHEETS:

Official AE Setup Sheets:
Official AE Setup Sheets

Petitrc.com Setup Sheets:
PetitRC Setup Page

FACTORY TEAM PARTS:

All Factory Team Parts can be found here:
AE Factory Team Parts

AFTERMARKET PARTS:

JConcepts:
Aluminum Steering Bellcranks
Aluminum Bulkhead Cap
Aluminum Wing Mounts

Exotek Racing:
Aluminum Rear Hubs
Carbon Fiber Battery Strap
Alloy Front Wheel Hex
Aluminum Bulkhead Cap
Steel Drive Cup

Avid:
Aluminum Bulkhead Cap
B5 Standoffs
Triad Slipper Clutch
Hate kit bearings? Build your own here:
Bearing Builder

Schelle Racing:
B5 Aluminum Standoffs
Nova Slipper Clutch
B44.3 Bearing Set

AFTERMARKET BODIES:

*All B44.2 Bodies should fit the B44.3*

Proline Phantom:
Proline Phantom

Jconcepts Finnisher:
Jconcepts Xflow Finnisher
Jconcepts Illuzion Finnisher

Useful Links
Tuning with Camber Links - Long read, and a different way to tune your car, but it can make more sense for some.
Razathorn's Camber Link Tuning Guide
Darcness's Tuning Guide
Martin Crisp's Car Tuning Guide - Onroad oriented, but very informative.

OTHER RESOURCES

PetitRC.com B44.3 Page:
Petitrc Setup Page

LiveRC first drive and interview with Tim Tunnermann:
LiveRC First Drive and Interview

Interview with B44.3 designer Tim Tunnermann:
RIP Podcast



LiveRC First Drive

Common Questions

Q: Why didn't AE use metric screws?
A: Long Answer: AE designer Tim Tunnermann has a full explanation in the RIP Podcast. The short answer is this kit is paying homage to the 4wd that Steven Hartson used to win the worlds, and it was easier to keep the car SAE due to the cost of tooling. A reasonable assumption is that the next AE 4wd buggy will probably use metric screws and 12mm hexes in the front. Also, it really isn't that much harder to keep a few wrenches and nut drivers in your toolbox is it?

Q: What does the center diff provide over the slipper clutch?
A:
Originally Posted by patiofurniture View Post
While the center diff does not increase the "grip" of the tires at the track surface (aka the coefficient of friction.) The biggest difference is the power delivery management which gives you the sensation of having more grip.

Lighter weight center diff oils allow the car to diff-out more easily under acceleration and thus power is primarily transferred to the front tires and you may get a little wheelspin up front but the rear end stays in check and does not get 'over-powered' and cause the rear end to kick out under hard acceleration. This makes the car much more forgiving to drive aggressively, because the car somewhat sorts itself out with the center diff. As the center diff oil gets thicker and thicker and it begins to act more like a spool providing 50/50 power distribution for all accelerations, and the car will accelerate/ handle more like a slipper. Another added traction management benefit of the center diff is under braking. Under initial braking the car will have even braking and as the weight gets transferred to the front more of the braking bias goes to the rear, thus going from like a 50/50 split at first to a 30/70 split front to rear. This helps prevent the front wheels from locking up and skidding (understeering) in a corner, while the rear tires are less prone to locking up than a 2wd because some of the braking is done by the front. All this feels very natural though while driving and the car just has the sensation of just being more fluid in the corners.

The center diff also helps protect the shock to the drivetrain when down-siding jumps, particularly if you land on either end of the car on-power. Lastly while cornering all four tires want to travel around different arcs, which means that all four tires would like to spin at different speeds. Otherwise, the tires will be forced to 'skid' a small amount and this takes away traction. The center diff allows the difference in speeds between front to rear as well as the F/R diffs allowing speed differences left-to-right. (see image attached for reference, just something I found for quick reference).

To top it off the Center diff is lighter than the Slipper!

Hope this helps clear up a lot of questions on what the benefits of the center diff are, and how it actually is very beneficial as a tuning option!

Q: What diff fluids should I start with?
A: Just remember that the thinner the fluid, the more the diff will want to "diff" out. What this means is that you have to strike a balance between all three diffs to find the "feel" that you want. That includes on-power, off-power, tight corners, sweeping corners, etc. There are several combos, but a good starting point is the fluid in the kit. For medium to high traction tracks, start with 100k in the center diff and play with the diff fluids to get the feeling you want.

Q: Which configuration should I start off with? Saddle pack, or Shorty?
A: Try both. There really is no other way to discover which will work better for your track/traction level/driving feel.

Q:
A:

Last edited by RCBuddha; 03-17-2015 at 10:38 PM.
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Old 07-15-2014, 02:28 PM
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as far as re-boots go, this is pretty good. i still think they missed an opportunity for a complete overhaul, getting rid of the weak arms and relatively thin shock towers. i think this is potentially a big leap forward in performance, but status quo on one of the main complaints this buggy has (durability).
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Old 07-15-2014, 02:29 PM
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well, at least is "close" to the car that won the worlds. Still not metic and still has weak arms. But people dont need to order converted diffs from Australia anymore
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Old 07-15-2014, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
as far as re-boots go, this is pretty good. i still think they missed an opportunity for a complete overhaul, getting rid of the weak arms and relatively thin shock towers. i think this is potentially a big leap forward in performance, but status quo on one of the main complaints this buggy has (durability).
I guess rpm will keep selling arms, lol
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Old 07-15-2014, 02:42 PM
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Edit: Looks like most of the hopups for the B44.2 will work with the B44.3.

Last edited by RCBuddha; 07-15-2014 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 07-15-2014, 02:49 PM
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So the weak arms are still on this ride, upgrading to RPM ones fixes that.

What other durability issues do you all think this car will still exhibit?
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Old 07-15-2014, 02:50 PM
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Still didn't solve the problem at the worlds and the biggest complaint from most drivers- it's fragility... Both of their top drivers taken out of a main. Maybe this is why RM left.
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:16 PM
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IT ISN'T FRAGILE IF YOU KNOW HOW TO DRIVE.
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Hacksback View Post
Still didn't solve the problem at the worlds and the biggest complaint from most drivers- it's fragility... Both of their top drivers taken out of a main. Maybe this is why RM left.
I was thinking the same thing, RM left cause AE don't make huge changes.
B5/M is nice but the 22 still keeps paces with it.

The others make huge changes but is that to keep up or catch AE?
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Hacksback View Post
Still didn't solve the problem at the worlds and the biggest complaint from most drivers- it's fragility... Both of their top drivers taken out of a main. Maybe this is why RM left.
The guys at the worlds were running the 'hard' arms which are stiffer but more brittle.

The arms that come in the kit are the standard plastic which are stronger than the 'hard' arms.

For drivers that have a harder time keeping it between the pipes and rubber side down, then RPM has got you covered!
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:22 PM
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me need sell my sister for it lol jk
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN- View Post
IT ISN'T FRAGILE IF YOU KNOW HOW TO DRIVE.
Sometimes stuff just happens. Marshals step in front of cars. Other drivers hop pipes. Sometimes the only thing you can do is watch and pray your car survives the carnage.
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post
Edit: Looks like most of the hopups for the B44.2 will work with the B44.3.
My 44.2 came with a Standard Finisher body

Jason
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:37 PM
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Hmmm i do not think its worth selling my b44.2 with avid and b5 ballcups. Guess its my new parts buggy.
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN- View Post
IT ISN'T FRAGILE IF YOU KNOW HOW TO DRIVE.
I'm pretty sure both Cav and RM know how to drive. Can't help it if you collide with a D413- the b44.xxx is going to break.
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