108LikesTeam Associated T5M Discussion
02-06-2016, 05:46 PM
#2731
Follow Frank's recommendation. Ditch the saddles. Too much weight. I run 17.5 with my T5M and I'm using the XFactory CF chassis, three gear tranny, and titanium turnbuckles. I don't use an eliminator, nor do I use MIP pucks for personal preference. I could shave quite a bit of weight with the elim and pucks as well as other upgrades, but I'm happy with where the truck is right now. Trucks weighs in around 1850.
If you do put your truck on a diet, remember to lighten your suspension. If you don't, without the weight your suspension will be too stiff. I use 30wt front, 25wt rear, and green new truck springs all around. Yours may be slightly different since my set up suits my driving style.
If you do put your truck on a diet, remember to lighten your suspension. If you don't, without the weight your suspension will be too stiff. I use 30wt front, 25wt rear, and green new truck springs all around. Yours may be slightly different since my set up suits my driving style.
02-10-2016, 08:16 AM
#2732
Hello Fellow T5M owners,
I'm pretty new to the ST world as I spent most of my time in the buggy world.
Just pickup up a gently used T5M, and going to start running it locally, although I'll likely start with a 13.5 or 17.5T with a Justock until I really get the driving stuff down, then maybe go from there if needed.
My truck weighs in at 1,880 race ready, everything is stock other than the slipper eliminator (going to start with a 28/78 gear). That includes shorty packs as well.
My questions are two fold:
1.) What do you think are the best 4-5 upgrades I should focus on - let me know what you think about below:
1.) 3 Gear Tranny with lighted 3 gear motor plate
2.) Cut Gears
3.) MIP Puck Set
4.) MIP Top Shaft
5.) AVID Bearings throughout
Anything I'm missing to consider?
Also, I know it varies from track to track, but what are the most common tires on indoor clay track with high bite? I've got a send of 3D's and some Clay Electrons as of today. Thinking about getting a set of Gold Dirt Webs.
I'm pretty new to the ST world as I spent most of my time in the buggy world.
Just pickup up a gently used T5M, and going to start running it locally, although I'll likely start with a 13.5 or 17.5T with a Justock until I really get the driving stuff down, then maybe go from there if needed.
My truck weighs in at 1,880 race ready, everything is stock other than the slipper eliminator (going to start with a 28/78 gear). That includes shorty packs as well.
My questions are two fold:
1.) What do you think are the best 4-5 upgrades I should focus on - let me know what you think about below:
1.) 3 Gear Tranny with lighted 3 gear motor plate
2.) Cut Gears
3.) MIP Puck Set
4.) MIP Top Shaft
5.) AVID Bearings throughout
Anything I'm missing to consider?
Also, I know it varies from track to track, but what are the most common tires on indoor clay track with high bite? I've got a send of 3D's and some Clay Electrons as of today. Thinking about getting a set of Gold Dirt Webs.
02-10-2016, 05:38 PM
#2733
Get the three gear tranny and maybe some titanium turnbuckles. I believe the kit includes the updated topshaft, so you many not be saving a lot of weight by upgrading. Personally, I dislike the MIP diff. It may be personal preference, but the kit diff is much more predictable and easier to adjust to get the desired results. I know the kit diff and axles are heavier, but I'm faster with them. Save yourself the money from buying the MIP gear and invest in the XFactory or PlanB CF chassis. Don't waste the money on bearings unless it's ceramic for the gearbox. Remove the plastic shields and degrease the bearings and then add a drop of bearing oil and they will spin forever!
Tires, use what the fast guys at your track are using.
Tires, use what the fast guys at your track are using.
02-11-2016, 09:41 AM
#2734
How much weight does a 3 gear trans really save you though?
With my saddle pack in my truck it weighed about 2020 grams. I weighed the pack and it was 270g.
My truck weighed in about 1750. It has Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles (all 6) and a ton of aluminum parts on it. Is the aluminum stuff making it heavier?
I wouldn't think it'd add that much weight if any but I haven't weighed the stock stuff since I bought mine with all the hop ups already on it.
With my saddle pack in my truck it weighed about 2020 grams. I weighed the pack and it was 270g.
My truck weighed in about 1750. It has Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles (all 6) and a ton of aluminum parts on it. Is the aluminum stuff making it heavier?
I wouldn't think it'd add that much weight if any but I haven't weighed the stock stuff since I bought mine with all the hop ups already on it.
02-11-2016, 12:15 PM
#2735
The aluminium stuff is slightly heavier than plastic, but its not drastic. Depending on how many parts you have on the truck, you are looking at 20-25 grams would be my guess (difference from stock parts).
As for the weight savings with the 3-Gear.....consider you are losing two bearings, an idler gear and shaft, and the tranny box is slightly smaller - likely about 25-30 grams difference.
Again these are just guesses.
I also just put a JConcepts chassis protector on it, and it added 14 grams, but with the FT pinion gear added as well, I ended up with a race weight of 1,889 stock (only aluminum option on the car as of now is the rear camber brace. Brent Thikle ran is truck in mod in the 1,977, Cav ran his in mod at 1,922 and Rifkin ran his in stock at 1,789 just to give you an idea where the experts are rolling in at.
Weights - Brass>Steel>Aluminum>Titanium>Plastic
As for the weight savings with the 3-Gear.....consider you are losing two bearings, an idler gear and shaft, and the tranny box is slightly smaller - likely about 25-30 grams difference.
Again these are just guesses.
I also just put a JConcepts chassis protector on it, and it added 14 grams, but with the FT pinion gear added as well, I ended up with a race weight of 1,889 stock (only aluminum option on the car as of now is the rear camber brace. Brent Thikle ran is truck in mod in the 1,977, Cav ran his in mod at 1,922 and Rifkin ran his in stock at 1,789 just to give you an idea where the experts are rolling in at.
Weights - Brass>Steel>Aluminum>Titanium>Plastic
02-12-2016, 10:51 AM
#2736
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
The aluminium stuff is slightly heavier than plastic, but its not drastic. Depending on how many parts you have on the truck, you are looking at 20-25 grams would be my guess (difference from stock parts).
As for the weight savings with the 3-Gear.....consider you are losing two bearings, an idler gear and shaft, and the tranny box is slightly smaller - likely about 25-30 grams difference.
Again these are just guesses.
I also just put a JConcepts chassis protector on it, and it added 14 grams, but with the FT pinion gear added as well, I ended up with a race weight of 1,889 stock (only aluminum option on the car as of now is the rear camber brace. Brent Thikle ran is truck in mod in the 1,977, Cav ran his in mod at 1,922 and Rifkin ran his in stock at 1,789 just to give you an idea where the experts are rolling in at.
Weights - Brass>Steel>Aluminum>Titanium>Plastic
As for the weight savings with the 3-Gear.....consider you are losing two bearings, an idler gear and shaft, and the tranny box is slightly smaller - likely about 25-30 grams difference.
Again these are just guesses.
I also just put a JConcepts chassis protector on it, and it added 14 grams, but with the FT pinion gear added as well, I ended up with a race weight of 1,889 stock (only aluminum option on the car as of now is the rear camber brace. Brent Thikle ran is truck in mod in the 1,977, Cav ran his in mod at 1,922 and Rifkin ran his in stock at 1,789 just to give you an idea where the experts are rolling in at.
Weights - Brass>Steel>Aluminum>Titanium>Plastic
02-12-2016, 12:43 PM
#2737
I can tell you my biggest reductions came from my electronics, batteries, 3 gear, and motor plate. The difference in weight between the 3 gear vs. 4 gear with motor plate and spur installed was 55g. I saved another 145g switching from saddles to the slim 2s shorty.
02-12-2016, 01:59 PM
#2739
WOW! thats pretty incredible. I was also trying to find the weight of the JConcepts chassis sheet and on Amazon I found that it is either 5.3 ounces or 2.4. I have a real hard time believing it is 5.3 ounces.. That's about 142 grams. 2.4 would be right at 68 grams. Seems more likely.. I may remove mine and see. I think it's worth the weight savings to not have it on there personally.
My other culprits are definitely the saddle packs, and full size servo.. Though I wonder how much weight a smaller one really saves, plus it's weight up front where I'd really like it to be so I'll start with Batteries and that protective sheet.
Edit, the nerd in me got curious, going from my older HiTec metal gear servo to a low profile savox high speed, metal gear servo I could save about 15.5g. not insignificant but maybe I could spend $60 better somewhere else, like that 3 gear setup!
Do you find it harder to get traction with the 3 gear if its a bit dusty?
My other culprits are definitely the saddle packs, and full size servo.. Though I wonder how much weight a smaller one really saves, plus it's weight up front where I'd really like it to be so I'll start with Batteries and that protective sheet.
Edit, the nerd in me got curious, going from my older HiTec metal gear servo to a low profile savox high speed, metal gear servo I could save about 15.5g. not insignificant but maybe I could spend $60 better somewhere else, like that 3 gear setup!
Do you find it harder to get traction with the 3 gear if its a bit dusty?
Last edited by Cerevo; 02-12-2016 at 02:49 PM.
02-12-2016, 07:25 PM
#2740
The JConcepts chassis protector weighs in at 14 grams, as an FYI. Worth the weight for me, and looks slick as well.
Also, I run a shorty pack and did some testing with it last night at open practice night. I had it in the back, but moved it to the front to take away some rear bite and apply it to the front - car felt better to me and my driving style (note that by doing this though, it does change the ride height so note that - my rear dropped 2mm). The truck seemed to have more rear bite than I would like, so going to swap out the front shock oil (had 37.5 in it, and going to put some 32.5 in it for next time out). That should balance it out a little more.
I currently run a 4 gear, but will be going with the 3 gear in the next week or so not sure how that will change things. My goal is to get the truck under 1,850, and if the 3 gear takes it down 50 grams, I'll be under that weight race ready, without any of the titanium stuff, which may come later (personally, I like the black turnbuckles that are on it).
Thanks for all for the advice on things so far. Only had one practice night on the T5M, but can tell that I'm really going to like it over my buggy.
Also, I run a shorty pack and did some testing with it last night at open practice night. I had it in the back, but moved it to the front to take away some rear bite and apply it to the front - car felt better to me and my driving style (note that by doing this though, it does change the ride height so note that - my rear dropped 2mm). The truck seemed to have more rear bite than I would like, so going to swap out the front shock oil (had 37.5 in it, and going to put some 32.5 in it for next time out). That should balance it out a little more.
I currently run a 4 gear, but will be going with the 3 gear in the next week or so not sure how that will change things. My goal is to get the truck under 1,850, and if the 3 gear takes it down 50 grams, I'll be under that weight race ready, without any of the titanium stuff, which may come later (personally, I like the black turnbuckles that are on it).
Thanks for all for the advice on things so far. Only had one practice night on the T5M, but can tell that I'm really going to like it over my buggy.
02-12-2016, 10:10 PM
#2741
Ahh well if it's only 14 grams then Im glad I didn't take it off yet because I'm with you. I like that it's there to preserve the newness of the chassis.
I really should invest in some shorty packs. I couldn't find any Gens Ace Shortys on Amazon when I was buying batteries and at the time I didn't know what I was really looking for.
Have you considered going inward a hole on the shock tower on the rear? I believe that is supposed to help with the corner bite of the rear but take away some straight line? I could be mistaken. Still learning all this.
I really should invest in some shorty packs. I couldn't find any Gens Ace Shortys on Amazon when I was buying batteries and at the time I didn't know what I was really looking for.
Have you considered going inward a hole on the shock tower on the rear? I believe that is supposed to help with the corner bite of the rear but take away some straight line? I could be mistaken. Still learning all this.
02-13-2016, 05:36 AM
#2742
Think of moving the shocks as changing the dampening of the suspension. By moving the shocks inward, you're softening the suspension. Move outward and you are stiffening the suspension. Moving the top of the shock will have a larger effect than moving the bottom. Suspension arm is just a lever with a fulcrum. It doesn't pivot any different whether it is compression from a jump or compression from a turn. You don't get more lateral traction just because the shock has been laid down. The lateral traction increases because the suspension has been softened.
Softening the rear will give more rear traction. Too soft and you'll push on-power.
02-13-2016, 05:37 AM
#2743
Ahh well if it's only 14 grams then Im glad I didn't take it off yet because I'm with you. I like that it's there to preserve the newness of the chassis.
I really should invest in some shorty packs. I couldn't find any Gens Ace Shortys on Amazon when I was buying batteries and at the time I didn't know what I was really looking for.
Have you considered going inward a hole on the shock tower on the rear? I believe that is supposed to help with the corner bite of the rear but take away some straight line? I could be mistaken. Still learning all this.
I really should invest in some shorty packs. I couldn't find any Gens Ace Shortys on Amazon when I was buying batteries and at the time I didn't know what I was really looking for.
Have you considered going inward a hole on the shock tower on the rear? I believe that is supposed to help with the corner bite of the rear but take away some straight line? I could be mistaken. Still learning all this.
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=338
02-13-2016, 06:30 AM
#2744
Wow that is a great thread! I'll ha e to bookmark it and delve into that more. Thanks for the suggestions on batteries as well!
02-13-2016, 06:31 AM
#2745
I have 30 front with Kyosho gold and 27.5 rear with Kyosho gold. I am going to the track today to test it out. If my springs are to stiff I'm have a set of new AE greens that I am going to try.