Hobby Pro USA PR S1 2wd Buggy ALL NEW
#2191
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Don't see it on CRPPLUS.com but it's on Hobby-Pro's site in both white & Black.
Scroll down a bit here: http://www.hobbyprousa.com/hobby-pro...eatured&page=8
Scroll down a bit here: http://www.hobbyprousa.com/hobby-pro...eatured&page=8
#2192
Check your E-mail Rick.
I got a bounce back on your personal account so hoping it went through ok to [email protected].
LMK.
I got a bounce back on your personal account so hoping it went through ok to [email protected].
LMK.
#2193
Don't see it on CRPPLUS.com but it's on Hobby-Pro's site in both white & Black.
Scroll down a bit here: http://www.hobbyprousa.com/hobby-pro...eatured&page=8
Scroll down a bit here: http://www.hobbyprousa.com/hobby-pro...eatured&page=8
#2194
diff case halves with inserts?
So I'm building my gearbox right now and it appears the factory already installed the flippable bushing for making it rear or mid motor. Problem is it's installed in the rear motor position and I need it in the mid motor position... How do I remove the insert from the gearbox case? Is that even an insert because it looks as if it's part of the moulding. Help me out broz!
#2195
Crap, figured it out... Bag "F". Doh!
#2196
#2197
Tech Elite
iTrader: (67)
Don't see it on CRPPLUS.com but it's on Hobby-Pro's site in both white & Black.
Scroll down a bit here: http://www.hobbyprousa.com/hobby-pro...eatured&page=8
Scroll down a bit here: http://www.hobbyprousa.com/hobby-pro...eatured&page=8
#2198
A full sized pack will fit so long as you run a shorty servo, but then you have to find a place for your ESC or Rx. That's the challenge of these minimalistic designs we have today.
I'd imagine an ESC shelf mounting up to the front brace's rearmost screws that would leave the ESC sitting in the cab section of the body, but that would alter roll center a bit, though not much.
Rick, if you think this is a worth part to look into making for your CRP band, LMK and I'll draw up a loose schematic for you.
I'd imagine an ESC shelf mounting up to the front brace's rearmost screws that would leave the ESC sitting in the cab section of the body, but that would alter roll center a bit, though not much.
Rick, if you think this is a worth part to look into making for your CRP band, LMK and I'll draw up a loose schematic for you.
I would just get a shorty for it though. Lighter. Neater.
Jimmy
#2199
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
So I have started running the buggy outdoors on a hard pack track in mid-motor. There is a little dust at times, but at night the track is flat out awesome (bar style tires). I have been having a terrible push on a couple of the high speed sweepers. I am running the preferred front and rear tires for the track, and I have plenty of rear traction. I am not too far off pace, and there is a chance that I am simply driving it too hard and expecting it to turn like my ST does.
The other night I made a ton of changes (front toe, camber, front shock oil, front camber link location) and it got a little better. I have noticed that my front wheels do not turn as far as a B5M that I have raced against. I have the end points set to where the steering link almost hits the spring. I do have the CF steering arms, and it looks like moving the link into a different hole on the outside (ackerman) may let it turn a little more without changing the end points. Has anybody ever tried this?
2nd question...would the brass front arm holder help in terms of adding steering?
The other night I made a ton of changes (front toe, camber, front shock oil, front camber link location) and it got a little better. I have noticed that my front wheels do not turn as far as a B5M that I have raced against. I have the end points set to where the steering link almost hits the spring. I do have the CF steering arms, and it looks like moving the link into a different hole on the outside (ackerman) may let it turn a little more without changing the end points. Has anybody ever tried this?
2nd question...would the brass front arm holder help in terms of adding steering?
#2200
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)
So I have started running the buggy outdoors on a hard pack track in mid-motor. There is a little dust at times, but at night the track is flat out awesome (bar style tires). I have been having a terrible push on a couple of the high speed sweepers. I am running the preferred front and rear tires for the track, and I have plenty of rear traction. I am not too far off pace, and there is a chance that I am simply driving it too hard and expecting it to turn like my ST does.
The other night I made a ton of changes (front toe, camber, front shock oil, front camber link location) and it got a little better. I have noticed that my front wheels do not turn as far as a B5M that I have raced against. I have the end points set to where the steering link almost hits the spring. I do have the CF steering arms, and it looks like moving the link into a different hole on the outside (ackerman) may let it turn a little more without changing the end points. Has anybody ever tried this?
2nd question...would the brass front arm holder help in terms of adding steering?
The other night I made a ton of changes (front toe, camber, front shock oil, front camber link location) and it got a little better. I have noticed that my front wheels do not turn as far as a B5M that I have raced against. I have the end points set to where the steering link almost hits the spring. I do have the CF steering arms, and it looks like moving the link into a different hole on the outside (ackerman) may let it turn a little more without changing the end points. Has anybody ever tried this?
2nd question...would the brass front arm holder help in terms of adding steering?
A setup sheet showing where you are makes it easier to make suggestions on what to change.
#2201
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
First and foremost how does the car turn everywhere else? If you have the right amount of steering in the other areas of the track you could remove just a touch of droop in the front to add some on power steering. I try to leave a few threads on the shock ends to give me some tweak ability when I'm trying to dial in the car. What front arm mount do you have on the car now? While the brass could help in terms of weight on the front it also adds an additional 7 deg of kickup which will remove additional turnin. You could also try working on the rear to get the car to rotate as well. Depending on where the rear hubs are, you could move the hub back to take a bit of weight transfer away without much of a loss in forward bite.
A setup sheet showing where you are makes it easier to make suggestions on what to change.
A setup sheet showing where you are makes it easier to make suggestions on what to change.
#2202
There are a couple very tight 180s, the car turns fine on those. There is a long sweeper after the front straight in which the car pushes off power, but once you get back on it it is fine. There is also a dog-leg section in the middle where you can go full throttle but when I am going through there if I have to put a lot of steering input in it it doesn't respond and it "pushes" towards the pipe. The arm mount I have is the stock plastic +5mm 0degree one. I attached a sheet below:
2. Other things you can try. Move LiPo forward or add weight up front. Ackermann and increased lock will make little difference.
3. Lighter oil in the rear diff will help prevent on power push.
4. More anti squat at the rear.
5. Stiffer rear end.
I think you've tried everything else.
Jimmy
#2205
Is anyone running the lightweight top shaft? I just got one in to my store for myself but I wanted to make sure it will hold up to a 7.5T motor? Thanks in advance for any info..