maddog9

iTrader: (30)

You just need the 15 degree casters. Nice things to have to take the wobble of the center drive is the kingheadz center uprights. I would not put the mip chassis braces on as it takes away the chassis flex which in turn takes away traction.

The washers are a good replacement part and also kyosho small pins i believe 9.8 mm x 2mm diameter for the axles and behind the hexes. Also, bearings for the whole car.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Check the front and rear arms. Depending on how old the truck is and how it is stored the arms can bow over time.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Great parts list. I understand your thinking concerning a used rig that might get updated in a year or so. With that in mind, Keep the parts bill low as you can and still get the awesome performance you expect.

There are no 5x10 bearings on this rig. You need 5x11 for diff pinion. The MIP spacer between the pinion bearings does make them last longer. MIP 5x7x 2mm Bearing Spacers (2) #10127 This is one area that ceramic 5x11 bearings help keep maintenance down and prevent diff problems. If built right the diffs can go 100-200 lipos between cleaning/replacing out drives. http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...letproof+Diffs

Save your money on the rear drive shafts, use stock here. The big benefit is up front for more steering angle and less wear. Keep in mind the Tekno M6 stub axle tends to bind when used with aluminum hubs on the rear. Funny, they fit the stock plastic hubs perfectly. We covered that a couple of times in the Pro8 thread.

If you race on large tracks, the metal chassis stiffeners are great. Who wants to deal with plastic rod ends that need replacing after one nose plant, short on the triple

The front top plate by KHZ is overlooked by most people because they don't understand how it helps. It does two things. It prevents the two screws at the front of the steering plate from pulling out of the diff housing or bulkhead. It also ties the front end together by bolting through the shock tower, gear box housing to a metal top plate over the steering that adds rigidity all the way back through the chassis stiffener to the chassis. Its one of those parts you don't think you need until you install it. http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/king-he...te-010/p268743

KHZ center diff support/motor mount is nice, but not absolutely necessary. I find the bearings are often binding after a couple of race days on loamy outdoor tracks and it needs cleaning often to keep friction down. It does help out drive wobble, but 2.0 mounts hold up well and the new diff case last a year easy even with a little wobble. The Xray diff washers also cut down on the wobble. Spend that cash on the ball bearing akerman plate by Vision Racing and some rod ends that last more than a few runs before they slop out. I'm not a fan of sloppy rod ends.

I'll stop there. This platform is well supported by aftermarket and been around long enough to have parts support beyond most all other serious race rigs. There is room for improvement, but it runs near the front of the pack out of the box.

I personally hope they have a 3.0 in the works with steel balls in the rod ends, ball bearing akerman plate, Xray diff washers, Tekno shafts all around and down the center, larger bearings for diffs and inner stub axle. A newer shock design like the TLR 22 rig would be a huge upgrade on 3.0 and selling point. A flat plate or flat chassis location for ESC would be nice as well.

Braxamus

iTrader: (9)

Anyone know what the output shaft is for a spektrum S6040 servo, how many teeth are on it

Casper

iTrader: (34)

23T

Braxamus

iTrader: (9)

Thanks is that the same as a futaba

DoogieLee

iTrader: (42)

Futaba is 25t

Braxamus

iTrader: (9)

so who else is 23T JR?

cttech455

iTrader: (10)

Airtronics as well

light

iTrader: (11)

What needs to be cut?

jay_959

the king headz center diff, sorry damm photo are upside down!!

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

wow, have to completely notch the 3rd leg off. they must have taken the 3 mm out of the back of the chassis.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

Yes Sir, it is all from the back.

light

iTrader: (11)

what about the body mounting holes ? do the rear still line up

Answer
I removed the spacers to get it to line up

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

They'll be 3mm shorter, but you can just "oval" out the holes a little to work without issue.