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Old 08-28-2015, 06:32 AM   #8626
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Originally Posted by Adonis_mp View Post
I just purchased a used roller from a buddy at my local track because i know TLR will be coming out with a 3.0 or something new in the near future, I can feel it So like we all would do, I'm going to strip it down and replace all worn out parts, but i also want to upgrade what should be upgraded. What i have so far is:

LOSB3569 Losi Differential Gear Set w/Hardware (Ten-T)
MIP12199 MIP TEN-SCTE Mod1 Spur Gear (41T)
MIP13249 MIP Pro4-Mance SCTE 2.0 Rigid Chassis Brace Kit
PTK-6701-RSZZ ProTek RC 12x18x4mm Dual Sealed
PTK-MR105-2RS ProTek RC 5x10x4mm Rubber Sealed Bearing
PTK-MR126-2RS ProTek RC 6x12x4mm Rubber Sealed Bearing
TKR2212 Tekno RC M6 Front & Rear Outdrive Set
TKR2213 Tekno RC HD Center Driveshaft (SCTE - Front/SCTE 2.0 - Rear)
TKR2217 Tekno RC HD Center Driveshaft (SCTE - Rear/SCTE 2.0 - Front)
TLR3100 Team Losi Racing Aluminum Rear Gearbox Bearing Insert Set
TLR332001 Team Losi Racing HD Differential Housing w/Integrated Insert
TLR334017 Team Losi Racing Aluminum 15 Degree Front Spindle Carrier
XRA964050 XRAY 5x15x0.3mm Washer

What else do you think I need?
You just need the 15 degree casters. Nice things to have to take the wobble of the center drive is the kingheadz center uprights. I would not put the mip chassis braces on as it takes away the chassis flex which in turn takes away traction.

The washers are a good replacement part and also kyosho small pins i believe 9.8 mm x 2mm diameter for the axles and behind the hexes. Also, bearings for the whole car.
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Old 08-28-2015, 08:41 AM   #8627
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Originally Posted by Adonis_mp View Post
I just purchased a used roller from a buddy at my local track because i know TLR will be coming out with a 3.0 or something new in the near future, I can feel it So like we all would do, I'm going to strip it down and replace all worn out parts, but i also want to upgrade what should be upgraded. What i have so far is:

LOSB3569 Losi Differential Gear Set w/Hardware (Ten-T)
MIP12199 MIP TEN-SCTE Mod1 Spur Gear (41T)
MIP13249 MIP Pro4-Mance SCTE 2.0 Rigid Chassis Brace Kit
PTK-6701-RSZZ ProTek RC 12x18x4mm Dual Sealed
PTK-MR105-2RS ProTek RC 5x10x4mm Rubber Sealed Bearing
PTK-MR126-2RS ProTek RC 6x12x4mm Rubber Sealed Bearing
TKR2212 Tekno RC M6 Front & Rear Outdrive Set
TKR2213 Tekno RC HD Center Driveshaft (SCTE - Front/SCTE 2.0 - Rear)
TKR2217 Tekno RC HD Center Driveshaft (SCTE - Rear/SCTE 2.0 - Front)
TLR3100 Team Losi Racing Aluminum Rear Gearbox Bearing Insert Set
TLR332001 Team Losi Racing HD Differential Housing w/Integrated Insert
TLR334017 Team Losi Racing Aluminum 15 Degree Front Spindle Carrier
XRA964050 XRAY 5x15x0.3mm Washer

What else do you think I need?
Check the front and rear arms. Depending on how old the truck is and how it is stored the arms can bow over time.
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:29 AM   #8628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adonis_mp View Post
I just purchased a used roller from a buddy at my local track because i know TLR will be coming out with a 3.0 or something new in the near future, I can feel it So like we all would do, I'm going to strip it down and replace all worn out parts, but i also want to upgrade what should be upgraded. What i have so far is:

LOSB3569 Losi Differential Gear Set w/Hardware (Ten-T)
MIP12199 MIP TEN-SCTE Mod1 Spur Gear (41T)
MIP13249 MIP Pro4-Mance SCTE 2.0 Rigid Chassis Brace Kit
PTK-6701-RSZZ ProTek RC 12x18x4mm Dual Sealed
PTK-MR105-2RS ProTek RC 5x10x4mm Rubber Sealed Bearing
PTK-MR126-2RS ProTek RC 6x12x4mm Rubber Sealed Bearing
TKR2212 Tekno RC M6 Front & Rear Outdrive Set
TKR2213 Tekno RC HD Center Driveshaft (SCTE - Front/SCTE 2.0 - Rear)
TKR2217 Tekno RC HD Center Driveshaft (SCTE - Rear/SCTE 2.0 - Front)
TLR3100 Team Losi Racing Aluminum Rear Gearbox Bearing Insert Set
TLR332001 Team Losi Racing HD Differential Housing w/Integrated Insert
TLR334017 Team Losi Racing Aluminum 15 Degree Front Spindle Carrier
XRA964050 XRAY 5x15x0.3mm Washer

What else do you think I need?
Great parts list. I understand your thinking concerning a used rig that might get updated in a year or so. With that in mind, Keep the parts bill low as you can and still get the awesome performance you expect.

There are no 5x10 bearings on this rig. You need 5x11 for diff pinion. The MIP spacer between the pinion bearings does make them last longer. MIP 5x7x 2mm Bearing Spacers (2) #10127 This is one area that ceramic 5x11 bearings help keep maintenance down and prevent diff problems. If built right the diffs can go 100-200 lipos between cleaning/replacing out drives. How to Build SCTE bulletproof Diffs

Save your money on the rear drive shafts, use stock here. The big benefit is up front for more steering angle and less wear. Keep in mind the Tekno M6 stub axle tends to bind when used with aluminum hubs on the rear. Funny, they fit the stock plastic hubs perfectly. We covered that a couple of times in the Pro8 thread.

If you race on large tracks, the metal chassis stiffeners are great. Who wants to deal with plastic rod ends that need replacing after one nose plant, short on the triple

The front top plate by KHZ is overlooked by most people because they don't understand how it helps. It does two things. It prevents the two screws at the front of the steering plate from pulling out of the diff housing or bulkhead. It also ties the front end together by bolting through the shock tower, gear box housing to a metal top plate over the steering that adds rigidity all the way back through the chassis stiffener to the chassis. Its one of those parts you don't think you need until you install it. http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/king-he...te-010/p268743

KHZ center diff support/motor mount is nice, but not absolutely necessary. I find the bearings are often binding after a couple of race days on loamy outdoor tracks and it needs cleaning often to keep friction down. It does help out drive wobble, but 2.0 mounts hold up well and the new diff case last a year easy even with a little wobble. The Xray diff washers also cut down on the wobble. Spend that cash on the ball bearing akerman plate by Vision Racing and some rod ends that last more than a few runs before they slop out. I'm not a fan of sloppy rod ends.

I'll stop there. This platform is well supported by aftermarket and been around long enough to have parts support beyond most all other serious race rigs. There is room for improvement, but it runs near the front of the pack out of the box.

I personally hope they have a 3.0 in the works with steel balls in the rod ends, ball bearing akerman plate, Xray diff washers, Tekno shafts all around and down the center, larger bearings for diffs and inner stub axle. A newer shock design like the TLR 22 rig would be a huge upgrade on 3.0 and selling point. A flat plate or flat chassis location for ESC would be nice as well.
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Old 08-28-2015, 03:30 PM   #8629
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Anyone know what the output shaft is for a spektrum S6040 servo, how many teeth are on it
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Old 08-28-2015, 03:43 PM   #8630
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Anyone know what the output shaft is for a spektrum S6040 servo, how many teeth are on it
23T
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Old 08-28-2015, 03:48 PM   #8631
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Thanks is that the same as a futaba
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Old 08-28-2015, 07:06 PM   #8632
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Originally Posted by Braxamus View Post
Thanks is that the same as a futaba
Futaba is 25t
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Old 08-29-2015, 04:43 AM   #8633
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so who else is 23T JR?
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Old 08-29-2015, 06:43 AM   #8634
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so who else is 23T JR?
Airtronics as well
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:00 PM   #8635
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Originally Posted by jay_959 View Post
Ran the -3mm chassis this passed weekend, used the MIP puck system and had no problems at all, but anyone using the king headz center diff will have some cutting to do.
What needs to be cut?
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:09 AM   #8636
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What needs to be cut?
the king headz center diff, sorry damm photo are upside down!!
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Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-img_1471.jpg   Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-img_1472.jpg  
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:01 AM   #8637
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the king headz center diff, sorry damm photo are upside down!!
wow, have to completely notch the 3rd leg off. they must have taken the 3 mm out of the back of the chassis.
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:56 AM   #8638
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wow, have to completely notch the 3rd leg off. they must have taken the 3 mm out of the back of the chassis.
Yes Sir, it is all from the back.
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Old 09-05-2015, 06:27 AM   #8639
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the king headz center diff, sorry damm photo are upside down!!
what about the body mounting holes ? do the rear still line up

Answer
I removed the spacers to get it to line up
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Last edited by light; 09-07-2015 at 10:00 AM. Reason: answer
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:57 AM   #8640
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what about the body mounting holes ? do the rear still line up

Answer
I removed the spacers to get it to line up
They'll be 3mm shorter, but you can just "oval" out the holes a little to work without issue.
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