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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-17-2013, 06:21 PM
  #9001  
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
Ya...it was a really good car....my schedule looked slammed to the point of no return then I got pullled off some dates that is giving me some time to get active again.....been a long time and Smac is a TOUGH crowd, when you gonna race there........place is off the hook!
Probably this thursday night. I cant be there all day on saturday. Not until my lil one gets a little bit older and can be with me there all day. Ive been to blaze a few times now but have never even been next door. What tires and foams were you running there?
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Old 12-17-2013, 06:34 PM
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I run what the fast guys run....it seems to work :-)

Just an idea of what they used to run, this year may be different....post in the track thread and ask perhaps....

Front: cut open cell JC And1 foam with cut JC green v1 barcodes
Rear: AKA closed cell foam and cut JC green v1 barcodes

Bah, you gotta make it on a race day, LOL....JK....I havent been their this year yet but there will be plenty of racers for you to ask Thursday night, or ask Mike @ Blaze, he has all the tires you need...I hear the new AKA's are working well but very few have them, AKA rebars as well in SS and m4 PL Ions also.
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Old 12-17-2013, 07:07 PM
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What's the effect of flipping the rear arm when changing from RM to MM? Its on manual but it seems geometry is the same?
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:12 PM
  #9004  
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Originally Posted by zzztech
What's the effect of flipping the rear arm when changing from RM to MM? Its on manual but it seems geometry is the same?
The single hole side is basically in between the 2 hole side if that makes sense.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:18 PM
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What is the biggest difference between running saddle packs or Shorty pack?
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:51 PM
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Shorty is more responsive and good if your car has lots of bite or traction. Saddle is good when the surface is kinda of loose or difficult to get traction on.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by nickdawg18
The single hole side is basically in between the 2 hole side if that makes sense.
If thats the only difference should be very minimal then
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by zzztech
What's the effect of flipping the rear arm when changing from RM to MM? Its on manual but it seems geometry is the same?
The shocks mount to the front of the arm in RM but the back of the arm in MM. Basically in MM, the shock tower gets mounted where the motor used to be so the shocks get mounted from the rear.
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rpboggs1
The shocks mount to the front of the arm in RM but the back of the arm in MM. Basically in MM, the shock tower gets mounted where the motor used to be so the shocks get mounted from the rear.
**the arm itself gets mounted the same direction though.
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:34 AM
  #9010  
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Originally Posted by rpboggs1
The shocks mount to the front of the arm in RM but the back of the arm in MM. Basically in MM, the shock tower gets mounted where the motor used to be so the shocks get mounted from the rear.
A lot of guys run the rb5 arms anyways
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:33 AM
  #9011  
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Originally Posted by nickdawg18
A lot of guys run the rb5 arms anyways
What part number would that arm be? What's the purpose of it? I'm running MM.. will I need to get a rear hub or can use the stock ones?
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:35 AM
  #9012  
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this thread is littered with um521-1 arm talk. search and you will find
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:37 AM
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um521-1 is the part number. No need to change anything else. Keep in mind that this arm does not require shims on the inner suspension pins like the stock arm does.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:44 AM
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I think you need to change to the short shock ends as well, to keep droop the same? am i wrong?
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:52 AM
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You are right, if you are trying to copy someone's setup. I should have mentioned that, my mistake.
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