Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

I haven't been running mine right now. Running my Mugen. Fred ran mid motor for a few weeks, tuned himself out of being fast so I suggested he go back to a traditional setup. He put the Japanese std setup on there exactly and was back up to speed. He ran it a few weeks and then last week showed up mid motor again... He had a good excuse though. His rear motor trans needed a diff rebuild and he didn't feel like rebuilding it so he just switched rear ends

His lap times with the mid motor that week were pretty much the same as his lap times rear motor. You have to understand though, Fred has ALWAYS preferred mid motor cars, even when others didn't. He ran mid motor almost all the time at bumps with his Durango (people just never asked cause he was slow :P).

As far as will MM work for us at bumps? Really depends on what Chris does with the dirt. If it's tacky, yes, it should work fine. If the grip is down, then you are going to lack forward bite when you try to get on power out of all those tight turns. I know I'll be running RM unless the grip gets super high. Even then I'm not sure I'll switch. I'm just building a whole second rear end so I can if I choose too.

ryanpatrickgore

iTrader: (14)

Well I see there is a Mmr hanger for the rear. But which one do I use for the front position? Just a regular old rf hanger I presume?

Life_livin

iTrader: (20)

For the RF hanger I believe you can use they new one that allows narrow or wide. http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=5789

sdnspecial

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater

SS A2 at Shootout

Team G Racing

iTrader: (23)

That was a good race in A2! Kevin Gahan was on fire all weekend.

Johnn27

iTrader: (89)

I really want to test this narrow rear hanger mid motor set-up in my car, so do I use narrow RF and narrow RR
hanger with mid-motor configuration? Advanced Thanks!

Tom87

iTrader: (3)

If you run the old style narrow rf it will work but you will lose motor gear ratio adjustment(you can shave a little of the block), should be ok but for most ratios. Other wise umw705 runs mid and rear, narrow and wide. The only rf part you will ever need.

For the rear you need the new rr hanger umw707 let's you run wide or narrow in mid. Or exotec make one to.

NitroLuver

iTrader: (48)

will be building up my rb6 tomorrow in RM can't wait to get out there and test her out...

Life_livin

iTrader: (20)

You will love it! Just take your time with the build and make sure to report back what you think of it.

K_King

iTrader: (47)

For the front you want to use RF1. RF2 is what the manual calls for as the stock rear hanger for mid is RR2.

For the rear you will need either the new Kyosho hangers or the Exotec ones if they make a narrow version (I dont know if they do).

Also the Kyosho ones are basically 3+ versions in 1 with a ton of options. All you do is change inserts.

Theres 7 different widths you can get from the inserts with the standard 3 toe.

Kit calls for 3.0 and Out-Bs, which I believe is the standard RF2, so in-B should be RF1. From there we can actually go up to out-D, which should really free the rear end up, or in-D which should lock it up a lot. I am going to try in-C on both would I think is a tick narrower than RF1s.

Johnn27

iTrader: (89)

Great info Thanks! I have the new hangers from kyosho. Now I have to tear the car apart and start over lol!

Johnn27

iTrader: (89)

Are you mid-motor drivers adding any weight to the chassis if so, where and how much?

Gitsum

iTrader: (1)

I didn't....you will find its very easy to drive in midmotor.

Johnn27

iTrader: (89)

I can see from pics on petiterc.com that Hara is running at least 14g in front of the motor. ..

silveraider14

iTrader: (6)

I dont run any weight in mine in mm. But im running on carpet