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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 07-29-2013, 10:56 AM   #7711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by function>form View Post
Are you guys running mid motor outdoors? At family? If so how do you think it will be at bumps?
I haven't been running mine right now. Running my Mugen. Fred ran mid motor for a few weeks, tuned himself out of being fast so I suggested he go back to a traditional setup. He put the Japanese std setup on there exactly and was back up to speed. He ran it a few weeks and then last week showed up mid motor again... He had a good excuse though. His rear motor trans needed a diff rebuild and he didn't feel like rebuilding it so he just switched rear ends

His lap times with the mid motor that week were pretty much the same as his lap times rear motor. You have to understand though, Fred has ALWAYS preferred mid motor cars, even when others didn't. He ran mid motor almost all the time at bumps with his Durango (people just never asked cause he was slow :P).

As far as will MM work for us at bumps? Really depends on what Chris does with the dirt. If it's tacky, yes, it should work fine. If the grip is down, then you are going to lack forward bite when you try to get on power out of all those tight turns. I know I'll be running RM unless the grip gets super high. Even then I'm not sure I'll switch. I'm just building a whole second rear end so I can if I choose too.
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:01 AM   #7712
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Well I see there is a Mmr hanger for the rear. But which one do I use for the front position? Just a regular old rf hanger I presume?
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:35 AM   #7713
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For the RF hanger I believe you can use they new one that allows narrow or wide. http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=5789
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Old 07-29-2013, 01:04 PM   #7714
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Originally Posted by Team G Racing View Post
In the B-Main there was 3, 2 in RM and 1 in MM.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater

SS A2 at Shootout
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Old 07-29-2013, 01:11 PM   #7715
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That was a good race in A2! Kevin Gahan was on fire all weekend.
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:35 PM   #7716
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Thumbs up rear hangers

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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Overall rear traction. I know on the RB5 the wide hangers were a godsend to free up the car after the longer arms, but I think the narrow is going to work better in mid. At least on non high bite tracks.
I really want to test this narrow rear hanger mid motor set-up in my car, so do I use narrow RF and narrow RR
hanger with mid-motor configuration? Advanced Thanks!
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:04 PM   #7717
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If you run the old style narrow rf it will work but you will lose motor gear ratio adjustment(you can shave a little of the block), should be ok but for most ratios. Other wise umw705 runs mid and rear, narrow and wide. The only rf part you will ever need.

For the rear you need the new rr hanger umw707 let's you run wide or narrow in mid. Or exotec make one to.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:03 PM   #7718
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will be building up my rb6 tomorrow in RM can't wait to get out there and test her out...
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:10 PM   #7719
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Originally Posted by NitroLuver View Post
will be building up my rb6 tomorrow in RM can't wait to get out there and test her out...
You will love it! Just take your time with the build and make sure to report back what you think of it.
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:36 AM   #7720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnn27 View Post
I really want to test this narrow rear hanger mid motor set-up in my car, so do I use narrow RF and narrow RR
hanger with mid-motor configuration? Advanced Thanks!
For the front you want to use RF1. RF2 is what the manual calls for as the stock rear hanger for mid is RR2.

For the rear you will need either the new Kyosho hangers or the Exotec ones if they make a narrow version (I dont know if they do).

Also the Kyosho ones are basically 3+ versions in 1 with a ton of options. All you do is change inserts.

Theres 7 different widths you can get from the inserts with the standard 3 toe.

Kit calls for 3.0 and Out-Bs, which I believe is the standard RF2, so in-B should be RF1. From there we can actually go up to out-D, which should really free the rear end up, or in-D which should lock it up a lot. I am going to try in-C on both would I think is a tick narrower than RF1s.
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:59 AM   #7721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
For the front you want to use RF1. RF2 is what the manual calls for as the stock rear hanger for mid is RR2.

For the rear you will need either the new Kyosho hangers or the Exotec ones if they make a narrow version (I dont know if they do).

Also the Kyosho ones are basically 3+ versions in 1 with a ton of options. All you do is change inserts.

Theres 7 different widths you can get from the inserts with the standard 3 toe.

Kit calls for 3.0 and Out-Bs, which I believe is the standard RF2, so in-B should be RF1. From there we can actually go up to out-D, which should really free the rear end up, or in-D which should lock it up a lot. I am going to try in-C on both would I think is a tick narrower than RF1s.
Great info Thanks! I have the new hangers from kyosho. Now I have to tear the car apart and start over lol!
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:07 AM   #7722
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Questions?? mid-motor

Are you mid-motor drivers adding any weight to the chassis if so, where and how much?
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:11 AM   #7723
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I didn't....you will find its very easy to drive in midmotor.
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:42 AM   #7724
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Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
I didn't....you will find its very easy to drive in midmotor.
I can see from pics on petiterc.com that Hara is running at least 14g in front of the motor. ..
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:42 AM   #7725
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I dont run any weight in mine in mm. But im running on carpet
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