3LikesSerpent 811E Buggy Thread
you couldn't pay me to run Spektrum. Thanks for the reply!
03-20-2012, 09:07 AM
#1804
Tech Regular
03-20-2012, 01:11 PM
#1805
First impressions, overall assesment
Just wanted to update a few things after opening the box this weekend and getting familiar with everything.
First question, whats the deal with the pinions/spurs that everyone is running?
Plastic breaks after _x_ number of runs... Metal wears the pinions down, but wont give you a DNF!
How long do the pinions last with a Metal spur? How long do Plastic spurs last (Kyosho) before they blow up? Is it consistent, I mean do plastic break consistently after 4-5 races?
I dont care about noise, Im a nitro guy looking for extra track time with a cool car!
Anyone find where to purchase one of the Serpent aluminum servo arms made for the Cobra? I can't link to it, dont have enuff posts yet (totally retarded btw)...
// link
neobuggy () .net/modules/news/article.php?storyid=11104
// link
redrc () .net/2011/11/serpent-steering-servo-levers/
remove the "()" above and take out the spaces
Now, on to some notes...
Stuff I like:
- bearings for the sway bars! so cool!
- Lots of decals for 2 body's... but no window masks (?)
- body is sexy, but still would like to see others made, as long as they dont look like a cab forward/punisher style.
- part numbers in the manual!
- decent oil setup. shoulda included more options, especially for the shocks (400 and 500 cst)
- very high quality plastics and metals for diff cases, arms, drivetrain.
Stuff I dont like: (Im being picky, because well, I just am)
- wheels would be nice! some say they're worthless, I would prefer a set. throw some silly soft tires on there for at least 2-3 race days, we all know wheels/tires is where the money goes, so any little bit helps
at least no money on fuel... hmmm.
- plastic NUTZ AND WASHERS, are you kidding me? I threw that bag...straight...in...the...trash. that's like hookin up with a totally hot chick but her toes are qworked! lol
- should have included couple more extra sway bar sizes f/r, doesnt have to be the whole set, but 1 or 2 is easy.
- update kit w foams or webbed bladders. these arent "hop ups" they should be standard items.
- wing should have aluminum posts as STANDARD. Not all of us can drive like Billy!
- no setup/tunning notes/advice/how tos
Billy Easton setup and testing info would be like VIP tickets, cmon! I remember when he ran for Associated so long ago...
ht tp :// teamassociated.com /news/race_results/133-Billy_Easton_Wins_2WD_Mod_Buggy_with_his_RC10B3!
he was like this super cool kid ... like offspring from Billy Idol and Sheena Easton ... lol
- looking at the steering crank sticking out the sides of the front of the body.. imo, would be better to have the body large enough to enclose this area.
- servo on its side? why not mount the servo under the esc (better CG!), instead of try to put the transponder down there where it cant count laps since its under the esc, we know the servo will still work!!! Someone did this already in this thread, but I want Serpent to do it!
Really, all of the above is benign and can be dealt with, but still, this is Serpent, supposed to be on par with Xray or better!!
And for the price of the kit, really, this stuff should be included. I picked Serpent because Im picky about my builds, if I weren't, I wouldnt pick Serpent!
Parts on my list
- Competition Suspensions pistons. Will run stockers first to get idea of they react.
- M2C Shock tower bra. wish they had one for the rear.
- metal washers and nutz. duh@!
- Sway bars, shock bladders, springs - all the shit that shoulda already been in the kit!
- pit towel
- moar battery foam
- hard servo saver spring
- racers edge OR Sperpent if I can find it - aluminum servo arm
- chrome decal sheet
- booties for the front axles - will fill with grease and ca them
- alum wing posts and wing nutz.
- sure would be nice as hell to buy the battery mounting plastic SEPARATE from the radio tray plastic... $50 bucks for the entire package is a bit ... inconvenient!
Motor Setup
Tekin RX8 w/2050 motor, starting with 16t pinion, stayin within 14-17t
Stay tuned, moar pics and info on diff and chassis setup!!!
First question, whats the deal with the pinions/spurs that everyone is running?
Plastic breaks after _x_ number of runs... Metal wears the pinions down, but wont give you a DNF!
How long do the pinions last with a Metal spur? How long do Plastic spurs last (Kyosho) before they blow up? Is it consistent, I mean do plastic break consistently after 4-5 races?
I dont care about noise, Im a nitro guy looking for extra track time with a cool car!
Anyone find where to purchase one of the Serpent aluminum servo arms made for the Cobra? I can't link to it, dont have enuff posts yet (totally retarded btw)...
// link
neobuggy () .net/modules/news/article.php?storyid=11104
// link
redrc () .net/2011/11/serpent-steering-servo-levers/
remove the "()" above and take out the spaces
Now, on to some notes...
Stuff I like:
- bearings for the sway bars! so cool!
- Lots of decals for 2 body's... but no window masks (?)
- body is sexy, but still would like to see others made, as long as they dont look like a cab forward/punisher style.
- part numbers in the manual!
- decent oil setup. shoulda included more options, especially for the shocks (400 and 500 cst)
- very high quality plastics and metals for diff cases, arms, drivetrain.
Stuff I dont like: (Im being picky, because well, I just am)
- wheels would be nice! some say they're worthless, I would prefer a set. throw some silly soft tires on there for at least 2-3 race days, we all know wheels/tires is where the money goes, so any little bit helps
at least no money on fuel... hmmm.- plastic NUTZ AND WASHERS, are you kidding me? I threw that bag...straight...in...the...trash. that's like hookin up with a totally hot chick but her toes are qworked! lol
- should have included couple more extra sway bar sizes f/r, doesnt have to be the whole set, but 1 or 2 is easy.
- update kit w foams or webbed bladders. these arent "hop ups" they should be standard items.
- wing should have aluminum posts as STANDARD. Not all of us can drive like Billy!
- no setup/tunning notes/advice/how tos
Billy Easton setup and testing info would be like VIP tickets, cmon! I remember when he ran for Associated so long ago...
ht tp :// teamassociated.com /news/race_results/133-Billy_Easton_Wins_2WD_Mod_Buggy_with_his_RC10B3!
he was like this super cool kid ... like offspring from Billy Idol and Sheena Easton ... lol
- looking at the steering crank sticking out the sides of the front of the body.. imo, would be better to have the body large enough to enclose this area.
- servo on its side? why not mount the servo under the esc (better CG!), instead of try to put the transponder down there where it cant count laps since its under the esc, we know the servo will still work!!! Someone did this already in this thread, but I want Serpent to do it!
Really, all of the above is benign and can be dealt with, but still, this is Serpent, supposed to be on par with Xray or better!!
And for the price of the kit, really, this stuff should be included. I picked Serpent because Im picky about my builds, if I weren't, I wouldnt pick Serpent!
Parts on my list
- Competition Suspensions pistons. Will run stockers first to get idea of they react.
- M2C Shock tower bra. wish they had one for the rear.
- metal washers and nutz. duh@!
- Sway bars, shock bladders, springs - all the shit that shoulda already been in the kit!
- pit towel
- moar battery foam
- hard servo saver spring
- racers edge OR Sperpent if I can find it - aluminum servo arm
- chrome decal sheet
- booties for the front axles - will fill with grease and ca them
- alum wing posts and wing nutz.
- sure would be nice as hell to buy the battery mounting plastic SEPARATE from the radio tray plastic... $50 bucks for the entire package is a bit ... inconvenient!
Motor Setup
Tekin RX8 w/2050 motor, starting with 16t pinion, stayin within 14-17t
Stay tuned, moar pics and info on diff and chassis setup!!!
Last edited by mrnizzles; 03-20-2012 at 03:04 PM.
03-20-2012, 02:53 PM
#1806
Building the diffs
With the updated instructions, the shimming of the diffs went just fine, plenty of shims to use (plenty of the .1mm left over). Have 2 of the .2mm shims.
CLEAN EVERYTHING WITH MOTOR SPRAY including the diff case and crown gears.
Like others have said, there is light oil all over the parts to protect them, so clean them up really good. I like when they get cold from the spray evaporating.
GREASE! I use joint axle grease and slime lube in combo to create a grease concoction that will definitely seal the diff, no questions. Some just use a synthetic grease, whatever your fancy, just don't use silicon oil alone.
Make sure apply grease where the oring sits, the tunnel, the outdrive shaft, under the gasket, on the gasket... pretty much everywhere!
When I tighten the diff down, I see small amounts of grease coming out, maybe a little silicon oil.
BEARINGS... Ok, so the front and rear diff use flanged bearings... nice. However, I noticed that they have about 2mm of play on the shaft once its all put together.
I checked the diff cases for installation and shimming there, and everything went together just fine, no need for shimming out the play, the diff cases seemed almost "perfect" fit for the diffs... and are the diff cases "dremeled" inside? They seem very smooth and looked like material had been removed? I do this on other diff cases when brand new.
Once I had the diffs screwed down, they were a little gritty, borderline notchy, but definitely can turn them by hand. After break in, I'll check them again, but they should be fine. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!
Also, the diff outdrives themselves have an extra circular notch around the shaft. At first I thought this is where a 2nd smaller, thinner oring goes, but this is not the case, there are no smaller orings to place on the shaft.
My Thunder Tiger S3 (ttr) diffs do this, and this is basically like having 2 orings on each shaft in the diff. Seals extremely well with grease. I have never had a diff leak on me.
So, I tried to put one of my ttr small diff orings on, it fit, but the outdrive shaft, did not fit in the diff case tunnel
diff mod fail.
The Serpent diffs, seal up only by the oring inside the diff.. the orings are slightly larger than the groove they sit into, which is how they end up "sealing", once they are "pressed" in with the diff outdrive shaft installed.
the ttr diff in the photos is the odd looking one. Overall, this is a diff that is 6 years old, has been rebuilt 17 times, its the rear diff in my ttr S3 nitro buggy.
It has never leaked, it has the same screws, crown gear, input shafts... even orings! It has conical cut gears. Not bad from a buggy back in 2004!!!! no wonder it won the 2006 ROAR NATS! GO MAIFIELD!
It is about 10-15% larger than the Serpent diffs in the photos.
** See the dark smudges on the orange mat? Thats the oily residue from cleaning everything, including the shims!! I lightened up the photos, so there was even more dark smudges... lotta oil!
Unfortunately, I did run into a snag... I managed to strip one of the screws on the rear diff! It was almost in.. and I fudged the handle on 2mm tip. I tried to back in out very carefully, but it stripped again. 4 times, then I just took my dremel cutting wheel and made a groove and it took me almost an hour to get the bastard out. Then... I get to find a new m3 screw.. because there aren't any EXTRAS in the kit!!! lucky I have some from my ttr S3 nitro buggy that NEVER STRIP!
_
CLEAN EVERYTHING WITH MOTOR SPRAY including the diff case and crown gears.
Like others have said, there is light oil all over the parts to protect them, so clean them up really good. I like when they get cold from the spray evaporating.
GREASE! I use joint axle grease and slime lube in combo to create a grease concoction that will definitely seal the diff, no questions. Some just use a synthetic grease, whatever your fancy, just don't use silicon oil alone.
Make sure apply grease where the oring sits, the tunnel, the outdrive shaft, under the gasket, on the gasket... pretty much everywhere!
When I tighten the diff down, I see small amounts of grease coming out, maybe a little silicon oil.
BEARINGS... Ok, so the front and rear diff use flanged bearings... nice. However, I noticed that they have about 2mm of play on the shaft once its all put together.
I checked the diff cases for installation and shimming there, and everything went together just fine, no need for shimming out the play, the diff cases seemed almost "perfect" fit for the diffs... and are the diff cases "dremeled" inside? They seem very smooth and looked like material had been removed? I do this on other diff cases when brand new.
Once I had the diffs screwed down, they were a little gritty, borderline notchy, but definitely can turn them by hand. After break in, I'll check them again, but they should be fine. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!
Also, the diff outdrives themselves have an extra circular notch around the shaft. At first I thought this is where a 2nd smaller, thinner oring goes, but this is not the case, there are no smaller orings to place on the shaft.
My Thunder Tiger S3 (ttr) diffs do this, and this is basically like having 2 orings on each shaft in the diff. Seals extremely well with grease. I have never had a diff leak on me.
So, I tried to put one of my ttr small diff orings on, it fit, but the outdrive shaft, did not fit in the diff case tunnel
diff mod fail.The Serpent diffs, seal up only by the oring inside the diff.. the orings are slightly larger than the groove they sit into, which is how they end up "sealing", once they are "pressed" in with the diff outdrive shaft installed.
the ttr diff in the photos is the odd looking one. Overall, this is a diff that is 6 years old, has been rebuilt 17 times, its the rear diff in my ttr S3 nitro buggy.
It has never leaked, it has the same screws, crown gear, input shafts... even orings! It has conical cut gears. Not bad from a buggy back in 2004!!!! no wonder it won the 2006 ROAR NATS! GO MAIFIELD!
It is about 10-15% larger than the Serpent diffs in the photos.
** See the dark smudges on the orange mat? Thats the oily residue from cleaning everything, including the shims!! I lightened up the photos, so there was even more dark smudges... lotta oil!
Unfortunately, I did run into a snag... I managed to strip one of the screws on the rear diff! It was almost in.. and I fudged the handle on 2mm tip. I tried to back in out very carefully, but it stripped again. 4 times, then I just took my dremel cutting wheel and made a groove and it took me almost an hour to get the bastard out. Then... I get to find a new m3 screw.. because there aren't any EXTRAS in the kit!!! lucky I have some from my ttr S3 nitro buggy that NEVER STRIP!
_
Last edited by mrnizzles; 03-20-2012 at 03:07 PM. Reason: look at the oil smudges!
03-20-2012, 03:20 PM
#1807
Chassis protect
I know not many guys do this... but for a $100 chassis, this stuff is pretty easy to apply and actually does last awhile. It does work in protecting the chassis a little longer.
On my ttr S3 nitro, maybe a gallon, then I cut off the back half and replace it once. On an indoor track, I bet this stuff would last even longer...
It comes as a large sheet, easy to peel, easy to mark, trim and cut. I didnt have a full sheet to apply, so the front got a little blotchy... oh well.
I know the Serpent chassis/car is pretty narrow, more narrow than other kits, but not as narrow as my ttr S3 nitro chassis!! (on the right in the photos)
Again, notice the square blocks where the diffs sit on the ttr chasis? This is for gaskets on the bottom of the diff! Very high quality shit back in 2004!
Make sure to trim the edges of the chassis with a clean, sharp xacto blade and press the film down with a ruler AND the curved handle from a pair of scissors!
Be sure to cut the screw holes with a body reamer IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY. This prevents the protective film from "lifting" if you do it from "inside" of the chassis.
After using the body reamer to open holes for each screw, I use the Racers Edge exacto blade, really a Scapel, to precision slice away extra film in the screw hole. Easy to do.
Total install including trim, cut, apply, smoothing, holes for screws is ... about an hour!
_
On my ttr S3 nitro, maybe a gallon, then I cut off the back half and replace it once. On an indoor track, I bet this stuff would last even longer...
It comes as a large sheet, easy to peel, easy to mark, trim and cut. I didnt have a full sheet to apply, so the front got a little blotchy... oh well.
I know the Serpent chassis/car is pretty narrow, more narrow than other kits, but not as narrow as my ttr S3 nitro chassis!! (on the right in the photos)
Again, notice the square blocks where the diffs sit on the ttr chasis? This is for gaskets on the bottom of the diff! Very high quality shit back in 2004!
Make sure to trim the edges of the chassis with a clean, sharp xacto blade and press the film down with a ruler AND the curved handle from a pair of scissors!
Be sure to cut the screw holes with a body reamer IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY. This prevents the protective film from "lifting" if you do it from "inside" of the chassis.
After using the body reamer to open holes for each screw, I use the Racers Edge exacto blade, really a Scapel, to precision slice away extra film in the screw hole. Easy to do.
Total install including trim, cut, apply, smoothing, holes for screws is ... about an hour!
_
03-20-2012, 03:42 PM
#1808
Pictures of TTR S3 parts take me back to the car that got me in this hobby haha! I have since erased those memories and only wish the LHS at the time directed me towards the Xray XB8.
I remember when Saxton ran that car and we watched him get mad and leave the driver's stand when my friend passed him for first at a big winter indoor race.
I remember when Saxton ran that car and we watched him get mad and leave the driver's stand when my friend passed him for first at a big winter indoor race.
03-20-2012, 04:02 PM
#1809
Hahaha... wut race was that? Saxton helped design the ttr car. It's older, but I love the car, been wrenching on it forever, so I know it well.
I think Serpent will be my next nitro car... prolly later this year.
Need to build a new ttr S3 with this new chassis and ALL new parts and race it this summer. Should be fun!
I think Serpent will be my next nitro car... prolly later this year.
Need to build a new ttr S3 with this new chassis and ALL new parts and race it this summer. Should be fun!
03-20-2012, 09:42 PM
#1814
Hahaha... wut race was that? Saxton helped design the ttr car. It's older, but I love the car, been wrenching on it forever, so I know it well.
I think Serpent will be my next nitro car... prolly later this year.
Need to build a new ttr S3 with this new chassis and ALL new parts and race it this summer. Should be fun!
I think Serpent will be my next nitro car... prolly later this year.
Need to build a new ttr S3 with this new chassis and ALL new parts and race it this summer. Should be fun!
I think it is awesome you are still running that TTR!
03-21-2012, 10:53 AM
#1815
moar pics
Thats kool your friend won the race, I would love to see when Saxton "looses it".. I've heard other similar stories like that... what was your buddy driving?
Heres a few pics of the body for my ttr S3. I will likely ONLY run it in a A main, and an important one at that. I have 4 other bodies for normal racing/practice that are beat to hell and I just repair them.
Now that I have the Serpent, I have both a really Neo Techy Elctro setup and a really Old Skool Nitro setup (which is what nitro should be all about)
The piece of lexan in the pics, is my new setup board, got at Home Depot for $16 bucks. Its super thick, very hard and stiff, and clear so I can see anything under it!! I can put stickers on it, make my own marks and Im going to make a handle for it after I sand the edges down a bit.
The bimmer body is for another ttr S3 I have, for running onroad, with foam tires with a RB S7 motor, 2 speed transmission and all the ttr hopups!!
_
Heres a few pics of the body for my ttr S3. I will likely ONLY run it in a A main, and an important one at that. I have 4 other bodies for normal racing/practice that are beat to hell and I just repair them.
Now that I have the Serpent, I have both a really Neo Techy Elctro setup and a really Old Skool Nitro setup (which is what nitro should be all about)
The piece of lexan in the pics, is my new setup board, got at Home Depot for $16 bucks. Its super thick, very hard and stiff, and clear so I can see anything under it!! I can put stickers on it, make my own marks and Im going to make a handle for it after I sand the edges down a bit.
The bimmer body is for another ttr S3 I have, for running onroad, with foam tires with a RB S7 motor, 2 speed transmission and all the ttr hopups!!
_