Shaggy33

Hey guys, great forum with awsome info. Just bought myself a v1 tlr22 as it was on offer for £99! I know that there might be upgrades required particularly in the steering as I believe this was one of the v1's issues.
My question is can I fit a largish esc into the car as I have a spare turnigy trackstar motor/esc combo I plan to use but the esc is not the smallest I have even seen! I know that with some 10th buggies height of the electrics is an issue because of the bodyshell profile.
Any advice appreciated

Pellefa

Get yourself the new battery holder, which also serves as ESC mount. Big improvements vs 1.0 in term of mounting the ESC. In the beginning of the TLR 22 2.0 thread there is a list of the new parts.

Ashalak

Assuming you have a Turnigy Trackstar Turbo like myself I can tell you that the ESC will catch the standard bodyshell with the fan installed. I've removed the fan from my ESC in the hope that it doesn't thermal, I'll be running a 7.5 motor but probably won't be pushing it too much so I can only hope . If I do end up requiring the fan I'll have to look into a low profile alternative, although to be honest I have a new ESC on BO anyway so it's not major if I end up shelving it

HollywoodRC

iTrader: (11)

Hey Guys, after a long period of racing 1/8th scale, I have decided to go back to 1/10th scale buggy. It was always my favorite. I just bought a used Losi 22 1.0 and forgot everything I knew about gearing them. The buggy came with a Triad Slipper Clutch system with a 76T spur. I plan to run 17.5 Blinky, however at this time most people here are running mod. So, I have a 17.5T, 13.5T, and an 8.5T. I am thinking that the final drive for the 17.5T is around 9ish. So 21T pinion. Or, should I buy another spur, like an 86T?

Thanks for any help you guys can offer up.

Lenman73

iTrader: (4)

With a 17.5 blinky you want at least a 31/32. Those get geared to the moon. I think I am running 72/32 in mine.

Pellefa

I see in a few set up sheets that the lipo sit all the way back to the motor, so I assume some sort of waterfall mod is required. Anyone did this mod, are you still using the same waterfall?

Or does "lipo against motor" simply mean "against waterfall"....?

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

If the setups are meant for Mid Motor then it was a time when the waterfall was removed and you could use the lipo right against the motor.

XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

offroad racer

Hey guys I have a 22 and I am running the RM configuration. I have the battery as far up as I can mount the battery holder/brace (I am running the Exotek one with a carbon fiber bar that holds the battery down). Previously I used the Losi plastic mount in the same position with Velcro straps holding the batteries down. I noticed today that my receiver case is smashed up, and I think it may be from the battery forcing the Losi plastic battery brace into the receiver and that caused the plastic to bust up. Is this a known issue?

Gonz13

iTrader: (1)

Sounds more like poor build/ configuration on your part not holding the battery down properly, rather than a malfunction or failure. In that case, there wouldn't be a 'known issue'.

Maybe it is just the way I'm reading your explanation? Perhaps post a pic or two to illustrate.

Wheel Nut

iTrader: (1)

I am running Blinky with a Tekin Redline 17.5 motor set at 12 degrees advance and 70 tooth spur with a 34 tooth pinion. Runs cool, plenty of torque and top speed. Hope this helps.

HollywoodRC

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for all the feed back. I have decided to run a 72/34.

dpcardoza

iTrader: (83)

Can somebody recommend tires for a very sticky indoor clay surface. I'm looking for better rear traction going into the turn. I've ran barcodes, suburbs and rebar as well as DD's in the rear. Just can't seem to find a right combo. Might just be my driving but I'm trying my best to mask my deficiencies. 😄

Errokk

iTrader: (13)

Try ions, dirtwebs, typos and so on ... Most any shorter tread design will work well on hard pack surfaces.

gixx

Hello,

I've been having some issue with the 22 steering and was wondering if anyone on this forum can provide some help. I have adjusted steering trim to ensure the the car is running at a straight line when no steering input is applied. I have also adjusted the end point so that at full left/right turn the steering diameters are the same size (left turn circle = right turn circle).

My issue is that when applying power during a right turn, the turn is significantly tighter (smaller in diameter) than when apply power during a left turn. I've been struggling to fine a solution to this problem for quite some time but to no avail.

Thanks