thefan

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, do i need to glue the sidewalls on the staggers and also on the rear mini pins?

Walkman

iTrader: (29)

If its the low profile staggers no, if not low profile its up to you but i don't really see the need.
I glued the side walls when I ran dboots Nanobytes on the front and that worked really good. I have never glued the sidewall on rears.

Vincent_Diesel

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty bummed about this. Wish I would have known sooner before dishing out 150.00 on a 8 Racing +8 CF chassis. Chassis had 3 runs on it -- I came short of clearing a small double jump and snapped it. All done.

I am thinking of going Exotek +8 chassis due to the innovative and reinforced front nose area. I feel this is where the 8 Racing chassis fell short in the durability department. Any reviews out there on this chassis? Sure looks like a winner.

All this raving about longer chassis may have gotten the best of me. I race at a small indoor clay track and may benefit from the original shorter stock chassis anyways. I never gave it a chance. I just wish they would make a standard length aluminum chassis that flexed a little bit more in the right areas.

Dino_D

You could have picked up a dimec +8 chassis for indoors. It's pretty cheap, or you can wait a little longer and get the +8 aluminum chassis that comes on the v2.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

+1 on the plastic +8mm Dimec chassis. It may not have the same bling or sitffness as CF or aluminum, but is still lightweight and so far has taken countless nose-first crashes without chassis breakage.

Vincent_Diesel

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the tips. I will try the Dimec +8 chassis after I give the stock alloy chassis a fair chance for our small track. I figure shorter wheelbase will help rotation.

psl

Does anybody have a good starting set up for the Dimec+8 chassis? Right now the rear of my buggy is real loose coming out of the corners and has a bad push. Does anyone use any added weights when using this chassis? I am using 4 hole pistons 1.4 hole size. Shock oil is 35 front and 30 rear, using Associated shock oil. ESC is mounted in the rear of the battery tray. Shorty battery pack is right after ESC, middle of buggy.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

I'm running 30wt in the front and rear shocks with the white -series yellow springs in the rear and stock springs up front. that seems to give me plenty of grip for our clay track. The pushing however, I had to use about 50 grams of weight toward the front, plus losing the servo saver to get my steering how I like it. And also, push the shorty as far forward as you can. I run mine just behind the servo.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Hey Vince…I've done some testing back and fourth with different chassis lengths and the shorter alum chassis or regular length dimec chassis (I like the alum) does seem better on the smaller tracks. I do plan to upgrade to the V2 probably this summer but if I was racing on a smaller track all the time I might still try the shorter original chassis. It all depends on how many option parts you wanna have lying around. Changing a chassis is a lot of work as usually this means new wires and remounting the electronics.

I'm currently testing the +11 from RDRP. I'll let you know what I think about it on a small indoor track as that's where I'm headed on saturday.

PS, I have an original alum chassis if you need it. PM me if you do.

Dino_D

+1

my setup is similar. But a little lighter. 27wt front, 25wt rear. You can try using 1.5x3 pistons. 3 antisquat, Stock Light blues front and rear and running +8 dimec with 42g up front, shorty battery forward, running RM4, and no servo saver.
If the track is really bumpy, sometimes I prefer the TLR low frequency springs instead, as it seems to glide over the bumps better.

If you need the grip, try running RM4, and 4 toe, and 3 antisquat. That will give you the most grip out of the corners. You will need to run softer springs and add weight in the front to stop the push. Or you can try moving 1 shim in front of the caster block with 3 shims in the rear. That generally gives you lots of steering.

Vincent_Diesel

iTrader: (2)

Thank you that would be super helpful 13. I'd love to hear about your progress.

As I mentioned before the "extended chassis" craze hit and the owners of DEXs in our area rushed out to get one -- including myself. Soon everybody had +8s, +10s and now +11s running in our relatively small track. It didn't make sense to me at the time to go longer. Once I put one on I wasn't blow away by the results, although I didn't give it enough time since my 8 Racing +8 chassis broke on me. REALLY UPSET. First impression was that it was stable as y'all seem to claim but it sure felt like driving a limousine on our smallish track. The rear traction had seemed to have diminished and could not rotate into turns. I thought to myself this isn't how a buggy should feel, c'mon this is supposed to be a surgical knife as opposed to a steak knife -- bad analogy but you get the point.

So for now the original aluminum is back on. Standard length and still brand new : ) And thanks for the offer -- I love this forum.

Stay tuned.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

awesome Vince. Glad to have you. I'll let you know about my testing after this weekend.

I realized later you probably still had your alum…..I ran that quite a bit on the small track and it was pretty wicked. I run mid motor as most of my favorite tracks here in SoCal are clay and high bite. We run slicks sometimes. Or Barcodes, and Ions. So you get the idea of what kinda of surface it is. OCRC from the Reedy race is one of my tracks. I've even run the original chassis at OCRC and with a good balanced setup (see fredswain! ) it's pretty dialed. I'm also running a shorty pack.

Are you also mid motor?

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@Vince: Have you also messed with the wheelbase via changing spacers in the front and rear hubs? This is a bit finer adjustment but moving the back around a bit can get more weight over the axles or less.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

All of your setups are jacked. You should never be running a heavier oil in front than rear. Your pack is uneven if you are.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Wouldn't you have more pack in the rear with the same pistons and oil front to rear because of the longer shock in the rear traveling faster than the front for the same travel?

I would think that with the same pistons you would have to be lighter in the rear or go with bigger holes in the rear with the same oil f&r.