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Old 02-19-2012, 09:59 AM   #4486
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So.....

Got my front end rotating GREAT......

Becouse the front is softer and rotates.. Not Pushing... my Rear is pretty loose...

Any Thoughts Guys???


Stav
Shorty or stick pack? Middle, front, rear? Any weight? I'm running a shorty pack in the middle, with 2 ounces of weight right behind the servo. I'm diggin' it but looking forward to getting my hands on some softer front springs.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:11 AM   #4487
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Shorty or stick pack? Middle, front, rear? Any weight? I'm running a shorty pack in the middle, with 2 ounces of weight right behind the servo. I'm diggin' it but looking forward to getting my hands on some softer front springs.

Reallly... hmmm

Short up front and 2 ounces of weight on servo...

Ill try moving both and see how it works.....

Mike Barnes... Mr OCD himself... got his dialed with no push and hooked mine up..... He has softer springs from Billy F so his rear is a BIT more Planted...... May change some oil as well... Dont have any different Pistons...

Gunna do some PRIVATE test and Tune today... If I can get my Tired ASS up.... Been a LONGGGGG 3 days of racing at the New Shop... FUN but Tired
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:15 AM   #4488
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can anyone give me a starting point for the sc10 gear diff oil? I will be running indoor clay med-high bite. Thank you
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:53 AM   #4489
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Finishing my build, and filled my shocks today. Now, would anyone care to guess which problem I ran into?

Yep. O-rings are squishing out underneath the cap. Current solution: screw the cap on loose enough to not get the problem, but I'm worried it'll unscrew itself as it's really too loose.

I remember reading something about this earlier, but can't find the posts. I'm leaning towards trying to dremel the inside edge of the cap to create a cone edge, but stopped before going there because I can't see Durango designing this good a ride with the need to dremel down new parts. Pretty please - tell me what the mounting trick is, as I've never had this problem with the AE shocks. (Unless I forgot the bleeder screw in during tight-down.)
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:57 AM   #4490
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Brandon Collins, ive tryed to look closer to your steering rack shimming and mods and I cant see close enough to what you have done to eliminate bump steer. Can You break it down for me. And did flipping the steering rack help?
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:03 PM   #4491
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can anyone give me a starting point for the sc10 gear diff oil? I will be running indoor clay med-high bite. Thank you
I am running AE 1000 diff oil with the SC10 diff. You can also try 2000
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:04 PM   #4492
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Finishing my build, and filled my shocks today. Now, would anyone care to guess which problem I ran into?

Yep. O-rings are squishing out underneath the cap. Current solution: screw the cap on loose enough to not get the problem, but I'm worried it'll unscrew itself as it's really too loose.

I remember reading something about this earlier, but can't find the posts. I'm leaning towards trying to dremel the inside edge of the cap to create a cone edge, but stopped before going there because I can't see Durango designing this good a ride with the need to dremel down new parts. Pretty please - tell me what the mounting trick is, as I've never had this problem with the AE shocks. (Unless I forgot the bleeder screw in during tight-down.)
Put some shock oil on the o-ring. That will solve the problem
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:34 PM   #4493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiro View Post
Finishing my build, and filled my shocks today. Now, would anyone care to guess which problem I ran into?

Yep. O-rings are squishing out underneath the cap. Current solution: screw the cap on loose enough to not get the problem, but I'm worried it'll unscrew itself as it's really too loose.

I remember reading something about this earlier, but can't find the posts. I'm leaning towards trying to dremel the inside edge of the cap to create a cone edge, but stopped before going there because I can't see Durango designing this good a ride with the need to dremel down new parts. Pretty please - tell me what the mounting trick is, as I've never had this problem with the AE shocks. (Unless I forgot the bleeder screw in during tight-down.)
Another thing you can do (what I did) take an exacto knife and chamfer the inside edge of the shock cap. It doesn't take much and solved the problem for me.
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:49 PM   #4494
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Originally Posted by stavman View Post
Reallly... hmmm

Short up front and 2 ounces of weight on servo...<--This is what you have?

Ill try moving both and see how it works.....

Mike Barnes... Mr OCD himself... got his dialed with no push and hooked mine up..... He has softer springs from Billy F so his rear is a BIT more Planted...... May change some oil as well... Dont have any different Pistons...I want to get those spring sets because I want to try softer up front and harder in the back. The kit springs are more set up for MM if you ask me.

Gunna do some PRIVATE test and Tune today... If I can get my Tired ASS up.... Been a LONGGGGG 3 days of racing at the New Shop... FUN but Tired
.........
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:56 PM   #4495
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Originally Posted by spiro View Post
Finishing my build, and filled my shocks today. Now, would anyone care to guess which problem I ran into?

Yep. O-rings are squishing out underneath the cap. Current solution: screw the cap on loose enough to not get the problem, but I'm worried it'll unscrew itself as it's really too loose.
Sounds like you built them incorrectly. The initial black disk that goes in first needs to be put in correctly, or the entire group sits out too far. Happened to me the first time too... didn't seem right... looked everything over again really closly and found the problem. Built correctly, the shocks go together like clockwork.
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:58 PM   #4496
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I would agree with you for the ProLine part, but i don't see JC doing anything real soon. Aren't they slightly chained to AE?
Most think JC is tied to AE, but they do have drivers for other makes, i.e. Durango's Billy Fischer and TLR's Dustin Evans. And they did release a Finnisher body for the Durango DEX210. So give it time and I think JC would release a wheel for the Durango.
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:59 PM   #4497
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Brandon Collins, ive tryed to look closer to your steering rack shimming and mods and I cant see close enough to what you have done to eliminate bump steer. Can You break it down for me. And did flipping the steering rack help?
hhmm.. im not sure I can explain it much better than I did on my post with the photos. I put the ackerman plate on the bottom side of the pivot arms instead of on top... then used small non-locking nuts and a 1mm shim (i think) for the inner ballstuds.... If left alone, the steering rack will now hit the arms... so to fix that, I shimmed the ENTIRE assmebly up. I did that by putting large shims underneither the two pivot arms, bringing the entire thing back up a tad. Shim it little by little until you get the steering rack to clear the arms.

And yes, it will allow you to get rid of all your bumpsteer. Instead of running 7 or 8mm of bumpsteer spacers (which cant really be done)... you can now run 2 or 3.
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Old 02-19-2012, 02:09 PM   #4498
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Originally Posted by CHIZZLE View Post
Shorty or stick pack? Middle, front, rear? Any weight? I'm running a shorty pack in the middle, with 2 ounces of weight right behind the servo. I'm diggin' it but looking forward to getting my hands on some softer front springs.


Big Difference....

Ran as is... 2oz on my Servo and Shorty up front.... was better than yesterday.... figured so i was TOAST after the 3 days racing....LOL

Moved Shorty to about Middle...... BIG Difference..... With the changes Mike did I dont need the added weight up Front...... Gunna try with Battery all way back and see how that feels....

Was pretty tired so i called it a day....

Time ta grill some DEAD COW in the 70deg sunshine......


Thanks Chance.... sometimes the simple things will work....



Ill SCREAM if the shocks come available this week..... i have a BUNCH of singles as well... so ill see what is available 1st.....


Stav
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Old 02-19-2012, 04:00 PM   #4499
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has anyone tried the kyosho diff rings as a temp until durango gets them back out. I dont have any kyosho stuff laying around and was told it would work.
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Old 02-19-2012, 04:30 PM   #4500
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After talking to one of the Hobbico reps at Motorama, they probably won't be doing anything to change the way TD operates for awhile, if ever.

Reason why, is TD still has a standing contract with HRP on being the sole distributor in the US. Also, TD has to get off their ass and start getting more parts made and in larger quantities. From what I've seen over the last two months, HRP hasn't been doing that bad on getting things out.

Bottom line is, if they don't have the parts, they can't distribute them.
Not sure I can believe this. The price on the DNX408 has dropped drastically and all the speculation is so HRP can dump what they have in stock in less than a month. They have not touched the other cars which are mostly out of stock anyway. As a matter of fact, the HRP distributor website shows every Durango vehicle out of stock.
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