Tekin RX8 1/8 Scale Brushless ESC Thread
quick question.. just switched my 4S/1900 setup for my 6S/1400 setup to run the higher voltage this year.. while changing the motors I noticed the 1400 has a little in/out play on the shaft if you pull on the pinion.. not much maybe 2mm.. the older 1900 has zero play.. can't get it to move at all no matter how hard I pull on the shaft. is this normal? or have I got so much crap in the 1900 after 2 full seasons without so much as a look inside it I've lost the play
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I am not "clearly looking for a quarrel". I am new to Tekin escs though. The owners manual I have for my RX8, and the owners manual that you can download from your website, gives no indication of how to access different timing profiles using the mode and set buttons. You can access 5 different throttle profiles, with different graphic depictions of each throttle curve shown in the manual, but I cannot find any indication of how to change timing profiles. Enlighten me on this.
You've got me here a bit. The stock 180 software doesn't have timing profiles to change. However once the esc has been updated to 223 it does. Sorry if I wasn't clear enough in my previous statement.
Tech Adept
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quick question.. just switched my 4S/1900 setup for my 6S/1400 setup to run the higher voltage this year.. while changing the motors I noticed the 1400 has a little in/out play on the shaft if you pull on the pinion.. not much maybe 2mm.. the older 1900 has zero play.. can't get it to move at all no matter how hard I pull on the shaft. is this normal? or have I got so much crap in the 1900 after 2 full seasons without so much as a look inside it I've lost the play
Randy, which shim dia. do you recommend? 5x7, 5x8 or 5x10?
Last edited by Starter box; 03-04-2013 at 05:55 PM.
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Tech Master
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After tge 223 software is installed, how do you access the timing profiles with the mode and set buttons? Do the "throttle profile" choices dissappear and the "timing profile" choices take their place? I assume I can view the details of the version 223 softwsre somewhere on the Tekin website?
Edit: I found the RX8 2.23 software guide, but couldn't find info on how to access the timing profiles using the mode and set buttons after it is installed.
Edit: I found the RX8 2.23 software guide, but couldn't find info on how to access the timing profiles using the mode and set buttons after it is installed.
Last edited by Rufus2010; 03-04-2013 at 07:27 PM.
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Thanks for the tip! I tried that test and get all three lights blinking like they should. Now, it will roll forward very slowly. The wires only heat up when I try to give it a lot of throttle. I can give it just a slight bit of throttle and it will go. Any more and it starts cogging. It cogs hard too. I'll try the other RX8 when it shows up tomorrow. I sure hope I didn't screw up my brand new RX8.
OK well so long as it's not just me then.. never noticed it on the 1900 when I was fitting it. but then that was so long ago and I've not touched it since other than to spin it with my finger to make sure the bearings aren't rough, might have just forgotten .. I suspect after 2 years it's probably got a leeeetle bit of dust in it
Simply use the mode/inc buttons to highlight "TP" and change the profile using the inc button.
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OK.
Tech Apprentice
Help
Hi Everyone,
I'm pretty new to the hobby and have bought a Tekin RX8 and Pro4 4600kv to run in my SCT,
I Don't know if anyone has had this problem but i keep melting my solder connections and the solder inside the motor can on the Black wire post that connects to the windings I've used Hudy Ultimate Professional Solder for my connections to the motor and esc, I'm using a 50-100c 2s lipo if that matters, I've only change the Voltage cut-off, Drag brake and Brake strength from the default settings, everything else is stock.. And have geared down from a 16t pinon to a 13t and this has now happened about 7 or 8 times, and melted two batteries, each time i've changed the wires and re-soldered all connections to the motor and esc as-well as inside the motor and everything worked fine, until i do a 5-6min run on the track and then another will melt??? I've asked my local hobby store about this and they didn't know why it was happening,
So i hope there's someone out there that can help me and any advise beside's buying a new motor and esc would be much appreciated..
I'm pretty new to the hobby and have bought a Tekin RX8 and Pro4 4600kv to run in my SCT,
I Don't know if anyone has had this problem but i keep melting my solder connections and the solder inside the motor can on the Black wire post that connects to the windings I've used Hudy Ultimate Professional Solder for my connections to the motor and esc, I'm using a 50-100c 2s lipo if that matters, I've only change the Voltage cut-off, Drag brake and Brake strength from the default settings, everything else is stock.. And have geared down from a 16t pinon to a 13t and this has now happened about 7 or 8 times, and melted two batteries, each time i've changed the wires and re-soldered all connections to the motor and esc as-well as inside the motor and everything worked fine, until i do a 5-6min run on the track and then another will melt??? I've asked my local hobby store about this and they didn't know why it was happening,
So i hope there's someone out there that can help me and any advise beside's buying a new motor and esc would be much appreciated..
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Any word on the Rx8/t8 combos coming back?
Tech Addict
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But it still comes back with 1 3 5.
Any more ideas or is shipping it back the only option left?
Tech Champion
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Hi Everyone,
I'm pretty new to the hobby and have bought a Tekin RX8 and Pro4 4600kv to run in my SCT,
I Don't know if anyone has had this problem but i keep melting my solder connections and the solder inside the motor can on the Black wire post that connects to the windings I've used Hudy Ultimate Professional Solder for my connections to the motor and esc, I'm using a 50-100c 2s lipo if that matters, I've only change the Voltage cut-off, Drag brake and Brake strength from the default settings, everything else is stock.. And have geared down from a 16t pinon to a 13t and this has now happened about 7 or 8 times, and melted two batteries, each time i've changed the wires and re-soldered all connections to the motor and esc as-well as inside the motor and everything worked fine, until i do a 5-6min run on the track and then another will melt??? I've asked my local hobby store about this and they didn't know why it was happening,
So i hope there's someone out there that can help me and any advise beside's buying a new motor and esc would be much appreciated..
I'm pretty new to the hobby and have bought a Tekin RX8 and Pro4 4600kv to run in my SCT,
I Don't know if anyone has had this problem but i keep melting my solder connections and the solder inside the motor can on the Black wire post that connects to the windings I've used Hudy Ultimate Professional Solder for my connections to the motor and esc, I'm using a 50-100c 2s lipo if that matters, I've only change the Voltage cut-off, Drag brake and Brake strength from the default settings, everything else is stock.. And have geared down from a 16t pinon to a 13t and this has now happened about 7 or 8 times, and melted two batteries, each time i've changed the wires and re-soldered all connections to the motor and esc as-well as inside the motor and everything worked fine, until i do a 5-6min run on the track and then another will melt??? I've asked my local hobby store about this and they didn't know why it was happening,
So i hope there's someone out there that can help me and any advise beside's buying a new motor and esc would be much appreciated..
Not sure how much I can help but the posts melting the plastic case is more than likely a bird cage plug problem or an old bullet plug that's squished together and no longer a tight fit.
The bird cages are only good for charging. They can lose springiness and then your power will start to arc creating a ton of heat... enough to melt the plastic.
Same with a bullet style plug with the prongs squished together.
For the motor wires creating enough heat to do what your describing... not sure what truck you are running and what is appropriate gearing for it with a 4600 motor but 16 to 13 tooth is a big jump. What motor temps were you getting with the 16t and also with the 13t?