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Old 12-05-2008, 07:13 AM
  #781  
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There weren't any in the box? I believe they are always included, you just have to solder the new ones on. Check the box again, the bottom is deeper than you think...
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by R40Victim
There weren't any in the box? I believe they are always included, you just have to solder the new ones on. Check the box again, the bottom is deeper than you think...
This wasn't a combo, I only sent back the motor.
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:58 PM
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Ah, those bastids! Call and let them know you didn't get any, the other guy that did had his new ones arrive pretty quickly. The phone # is posted a page or two back.
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Old 12-05-2008, 01:48 PM
  #784  
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Default losi 2.0 shocks

just woundering how some of you guy's re-build process is with these big bore shocks .I have treid to do it the way the manual say's and it doesn't seem to work properly.I can't seem to get the matached properly i.e. same rebound and to extend to the same length .bert
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Old 12-05-2008, 01:55 PM
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The length changes when you compress and pull it back out? I'm not sure what you're describing...
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:07 PM
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I think he's talkin bout the rebound after pumping them up.
When you let go without the springs, how far the shaft comes back out.
They get a little back pressure.
Also when you put the two shock ends together and push them in they are supposed to collapse at the same time.
If one is stiffer than the other, I just crack the top on that shock and let it bleed just a tiny bit at a time til they do collapse at the same time.
I've also been told not to worry too much about it as long as there isn't too much oil in there to cause a "hydrolock" which will keep the shaft from it's full travel.
Of course too much air is also an issue. Just need to keep playin with em.
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:17 PM
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Here is a online video on how to rebuild your shocks. I've used this way to rebuild my shocks and have never had a problem. Try it out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rixBJu93Qyw
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Old 12-05-2008, 07:50 PM
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anyone had the problem with the rear diff pinon and main gear be extremely rough when rotated. I think its causing excess drag in the driveline. The 8ight nitro thread said it was a semi common problem and just to run it alot to get it to mesh right, but i dont know if thats the best idea
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Old 12-05-2008, 10:30 PM
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If it's bad, open the rear diff housing and look. See if the teeth are chewed, or if the bearing mounts are in good condition, but sometimes they do just settle in.
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by R40Victim
If it's bad, open the rear diff housing and look. See if the teeth are chewed, or if the bearing mounts are in good condition, but sometimes they do just settle in.
did you ever find out the maker of those heatsinks youre using.

As soon as the motor gets back from losi, i want to put a heatsink on it before the first run
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Old 12-06-2008, 07:23 AM
  #791  
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The heat sinks appear to both be from Integy:

http://www.integy.com/cgi-bin/webc.c...=5999&p_catid=



They have several similar to the other one, but most of the ones that are closest to it, have fans on them:

http://www.integy.com/cgi-bin/webc.c...tml?p_catid=28







They are still working very well. I charged up my battery to practice at the track. When I got there, it was still wet and muddy. So I left and ran the car out behind my shop(I like to store my Lipos 80% charged). So to burn off some charge I ran it around in the grass for several minutes. Normally, this is a surefire way get an electric powered vehicle very hot! After several minutes, I hit it with the temp gun. In 70 degree weather, the motor was about 105 degrees! That's pretty impressive. The heat sinks are working very well.
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Old 12-06-2008, 10:34 AM
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I went ahead and ordered 2 of these


they were on the integy site that you listed. Im not taking any chances anymore with burning up electronics and missing races


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Old 12-06-2008, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by wfdfiremedic
Yes, I found that reducing the drag brake to zero helps a lot. There is still a lot of drag in the drivetrain to overcome, which still must be compensated for during jumps. I have found that as I get used to the car, my jumps become more consistent and level. Braking is the same. My brake finger is becoming accustomed to the necessary throw to stop the car depending on the speed. Very slight movements are required for proper braking.

This thing really is blazing fast though once you begin to get a feel for it. I am going to try running a 16 pinion today. I will report back what i think. I have only run a 13 since getting the car.
Did you ever notice a difference running the 16t?
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Old 12-06-2008, 08:37 PM
  #794  
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I went ahead and ordered 2 of these


they were on the integy site that you listed. Im not taking any chances anymore with burning up electronics and missing races
Looks good. Use thermal grease/zip ties, and take temps before and after so you know how effective they are.
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Old 12-07-2008, 07:38 AM
  #795  
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Originally Posted by bradfox2
Did you ever notice a difference running the 16t?
Yes, with the losi 16 pinion the car ran much smoother and it felt it was easier to correct position in the air during jumps and get initial traction. I think this was a result of being able to get the tires greater RPM to correct position in the air. To me, it felt smoother and somewhat like a nitro. I really like the feel of the 16 pinion, I am just worried about temps. I don't really feel comfortable running the 16 because I was able to get 165 on it during a 45ish degree day. I am getting to the point though where I just want to say screw it to worrying about temps and throw the 16 back on and just go for it. I added a heatsink to the rear of the motor, so I'll see how that works. I haven't any problems with the losi system thus far.
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