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Mod Racing - Motor Selection - Transmitter Settings
#1
Mod Racing - Motor Selection - Transmitter Settings
For mod racing, it seems I always see questions regarding what motor people should run. Why not just go with the lowest turn like a 4.5 or 5.5 and just use EPA and EXPO to tune it down to where the user is comfortable? Would that make more sense rather than investing in different turn motors? I've never used it, but I know some transmitters have a feature called Punch that you can adjust as well.
Wouldn't using transmitter tuning be more affordable as well for most racers?
Wouldn't using transmitter tuning be more affordable as well for most racers?
#3
Mod makes all the settings that change how the car behaves useful, to an extent.
For say 2wd mod on dirt, you don't really need to go below a 6.5, most people run a 7.5. Most people run a 6.5 or 5.5 in 4wd on dirt. Take a turn off for carpet.
But yes after that, rotor tuning is important. Then depending on grip level I'll run 90-100% epa/dual rate on the throttle to change power to how well I can use it.
Example when I was learning a layout and changing between practice tires and stuff, I had my 4wd mod down to 80%. Then after getting tires right, and learning the layout I was able to use 95-100% of the motor after that.
Frequency, punch, dead band, slipper settings, and other stuff. Everything becomes more critical in mod since you have 30-50% more power.
I run on dirt so I have a 7.0 in my 2w and I have a 6.5 for my 4w going to get a 6.0 soon. And I tune D/R and epa to tailor power to the layout and other factors. But don't go crazy low turn way beyond your skill. Its not needed. Running the motor turned down will help it last a long time though especially compared to stock.
For say 2wd mod on dirt, you don't really need to go below a 6.5, most people run a 7.5. Most people run a 6.5 or 5.5 in 4wd on dirt. Take a turn off for carpet.
But yes after that, rotor tuning is important. Then depending on grip level I'll run 90-100% epa/dual rate on the throttle to change power to how well I can use it.
Example when I was learning a layout and changing between practice tires and stuff, I had my 4wd mod down to 80%. Then after getting tires right, and learning the layout I was able to use 95-100% of the motor after that.
Frequency, punch, dead band, slipper settings, and other stuff. Everything becomes more critical in mod since you have 30-50% more power.
I run on dirt so I have a 7.0 in my 2w and I have a 6.5 for my 4w going to get a 6.0 soon. And I tune D/R and epa to tailor power to the layout and other factors. But don't go crazy low turn way beyond your skill. Its not needed. Running the motor turned down will help it last a long time though especially compared to stock.
#4
#5
I really like the feedback I'm getting, this is quite informative, thanks to everyone who has commented.
I found this site that explains settings pretty well for those interested who are not experts of tuning throttle.
https://www.trackstarrc.net/blogs/ne...itter-throttle
I found this site that explains settings pretty well for those interested who are not experts of tuning throttle.
https://www.trackstarrc.net/blogs/ne...itter-throttle
#6
Don't use trim/sub trim for drag brake tuning unless you're on track and its just so broken you can't do your qualifier.
It wont let the esc go to neutral and might have issues turning on. Most escs need to see the radio in neutral to fully arm and be ready to race.
Plus its a super coarse adjustment compared to changing the esc settings.
It wont let the esc go to neutral and might have issues turning on. Most escs need to see the radio in neutral to fully arm and be ready to race.
Plus its a super coarse adjustment compared to changing the esc settings.
#7
A guy I race with does that for dirt oval. He's running a 4.5t w the EPA turned down to suit. It takes motor selection out of the equation for a bit.
--Alex
--Alex
#8
#9
#10
Not much difference for throttle. D/R settings are easier to adjust quickly and settings are visible on default screen.
#11
On Sunday we raced on a damp/wet slippery astro track, I managed my fastest lap in the first round of qualifying and my car just wasn't right, no really power or punch and when I crashed it would then go. Turns out that one of my motor wires was only just connected, I will be turning everything down in future as I didn't go any quicker when I was vack up to full power. Every day is a school day.
#12
That is true for a servo (i.e. steering), but usually you calibrate the ESC to the radio for throttle, so EPA can stay at 100%.
#13
i do anyways but it would be nice to not have to
#14
Whenever you're setting up an ESC you want DR EPA all at 100% and no expo or curve or anything like that. The ESC gets the signal from the radio and doesn't know its changed in anyway.