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rc10 RPM 7077?

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Old 02-13-2026 | 08:40 AM
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Default rc10 RPM 7077?

Bought an og gold pan to turn into a racer. These cars were before my time, didn't realize until it showed up that the front end was different. Wanted to confirm this is an RPM '91 worlds front end, part # 7077? What did the conversion consist of? Found the old instructions but doesn't list the parts. Narrower front bulkhead and tower and longer arms? The rear end is stock. Would the appropriate available rear end be the jc racing long arm conversion?

Thanks for the help.


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Old 02-13-2026 | 09:35 AM
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It looks to be a 10T bulkhead, 10T black noseplate, the arms are the natural nylon color like RPM arms came in, and the shock tower is the style for the longer worlds arms.

Tell us more about the rear of the car.
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Old 02-13-2026 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by pma1123
It looks to be a 10T bulkhead, 10T black noseplate, the arms are the natural nylon color like RPM arms came in, and the shock tower is the style for the longer worlds arms.

Tell us more about the rear of the car.
Front arms are definitely RPM. The conversion used the 10t bulkhead? Did it come with springs? I'll take some better pics when I get home but here's the ones from the ad. Rear end appears to be stock aside from the stealth trans..





Last edited by wydopen; 02-13-2026 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 02-14-2026 | 12:55 PM
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Got it ready with temporary electronics and body. Might let my friend run it so did a variation of his paint scheme. The vintage class where I club race is just rear motor 17.5 so I’m running my 22. If I end up running this instead I will change the shocks and rear tower so I can get rid of the wing wire and put real turnbuckles on it. Threw mip cvd’s on it and jconcepts bell cranks. Had to cut steering posts down so just used the plastic bushings and nuts for now.





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Old 02-16-2026 | 12:13 PM
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What are the best turnbuckles to get for the long arm car? Wanted to keep it old school 4-40.
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Old 02-19-2026 | 08:18 PM
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I would add some sort of bracing to that chassis or it's going to fold like a taco.
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Old 02-24-2026 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mikea96
I would add some sort of bracing to that chassis or it's going to fold like a taco.
We will see, not as flexy as you would think. If it does it will be a good excuse to get a carbon one. Running on low grip outdoors so extra flex is nice. Run no waterfall and rear sideguard screws on my modern 2wd.
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Old 03-20-2026 | 07:46 AM
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Got it mostly done with the exception of the carbon shock tower and ti turnbuckles and ballstuds that got lost in the mail..just in time for the new factory team kit to come in. Not my cleanest wiring job but these electronics will go in the new car when it comes. Did the jc racing long rear arms, factory team hex cvd’s, 30deg caster blocks and have some wide front axles to try after I try it with just the long rear arms. Also got some traxxas spring cups and seats so I can try 12mm springs. Going to keep the small bore shocks.

Anyone have a dye color suggestion to try to get the rear arms closer to the original fronts? Also have white rpm ball cups to go on it when the turnbuckles come.




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Old 03-21-2026 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mikea96
I would add some sort of bracing to that chassis or it's going to fold like a taco.
Thought the same, but that battery brace helps with flex. Without it, it would fold as easy as a soft shell. If it were me, that chassis would've been top of the list to replace.
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Old 03-23-2026 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by R6cowboy
Thought the same, but that battery brace helps with flex. Without it, it would fold as easy as a soft shell. If it were me, that chassis would've been top of the list to replace.
Have been driving the wheels off it and no problems. Some big jumps too..

Honestly not a huge difference with the long rear arms. Maybe a little better in the bumps but hard to tell. Had lots of grip on a very loose track but I don't know if that was because of the changes. Had good traction last time I drove it with the old rear end. Will compare back to back with the new kit and see. If it's better I'm not afraid to cut the new chassis..I added 30g to the front bulkhead because I felt like the front end was a little light. Didn't make much difference either, might need to go heavier oil in the rear. Going to try different springs too. Front end feels very progressive compared to other peoples setups. I stood the shocks up as much as you can but it still feels excessive. Only running 30wt and I'm assuming those are ae silver springs. It drives really good though but always looking to make it better.

Last edited by wydopen; 03-23-2026 at 12:42 PM.
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Old 03-25-2026 | 05:51 AM
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Was able to make an avid triad slipper work using a b4 top shaft and cutting one of the b4 slipper plates down to use as an adaptor. Running them on my other cars so nice to share spurs between them.


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Old Today | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by R6cowboy
Thought the same, but that battery brace helps with flex. Without it, it would fold as easy as a soft shell. If it were me, that chassis would've been top of the list to replace.
Finally replaced the chassis. Was barley starting to crack in the corners. Been running it and racing it a couple times a week. Might have been cracked for awhile, could have kept running it. Didn't cut the new one down as far or enlarge the extra holes, feels allot heavier. Going to race it tomorrow and see how it is but might cut it a little more. Was already cutting the back for the long rear arms so figured I'd take some off the sides also. Built a Factory Team that I was planning on running but this car works way better.







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