rc10 RPM 7077?
#1
Bought an og gold pan to turn into a racer. These cars were before my time, didn't realize until it showed up that the front end was different. Wanted to confirm this is an RPM '91 worlds front end, part # 7077? What did the conversion consist of? Found the old instructions but doesn't list the parts. Narrower front bulkhead and tower and longer arms? The rear end is stock. Would the appropriate available rear end be the jc racing long arm conversion?
Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the help.

#2
It looks to be a 10T bulkhead, 10T black noseplate, the arms are the natural nylon color like RPM arms came in, and the shock tower is the style for the longer worlds arms.
Tell us more about the rear of the car.
Tell us more about the rear of the car.
#3



Last edited by wydopen; 02-13-2026 at 11:17 AM.
#4
Got it ready with temporary electronics and body. Might let my friend run it so did a variation of his paint scheme. The vintage class where I club race is just rear motor 17.5 so I’m running my 22. If I end up running this instead I will change the shocks and rear tower so I can get rid of the wing wire and put real turnbuckles on it. Threw mip cvd’s on it and jconcepts bell cranks. Had to cut steering posts down so just used the plastic bushings and nuts for now.








#7
We will see, not as flexy as you would think. If it does it will be a good excuse to get a carbon one. Running on low grip outdoors so extra flex is nice. Run no waterfall and rear sideguard screws on my modern 2wd.
#8
Got it mostly done with the exception of the carbon shock tower and ti turnbuckles and ballstuds that got lost in the mail..just in time for the new factory team kit to come in. Not my cleanest wiring job but these electronics will go in the new car when it comes. Did the jc racing long rear arms, factory team hex cvd’s, 30deg caster blocks and have some wide front axles to try after I try it with just the long rear arms. Also got some traxxas spring cups and seats so I can try 12mm springs. Going to keep the small bore shocks.
Anyone have a dye color suggestion to try to get the rear arms closer to the original fronts? Also have white rpm ball cups to go on it when the turnbuckles come.


Anyone have a dye color suggestion to try to get the rear arms closer to the original fronts? Also have white rpm ball cups to go on it when the turnbuckles come.


Last edited by wydopen; 03-20-2026 at 09:49 AM.
#9
#10
Honestly not a huge difference with the long rear arms. Maybe a little better in the bumps but hard to tell. Had lots of grip on a very loose track but I don't know if that was because of the changes. Had good traction last time I drove it with the old rear end. Will compare back to back with the new kit and see. If it's better I'm not afraid to cut the new chassis..I added 30g to the front bulkhead because I felt like the front end was a little light. Didn't make much difference either, might need to go heavier oil in the rear. Going to try different springs too. Front end feels very progressive compared to other peoples setups. I stood the shocks up as much as you can but it still feels excessive. Only running 30wt and I'm assuming those are ae silver springs. It drives really good though but always looking to make it better.
Last edited by wydopen; 03-23-2026 at 12:42 PM.
#11
Was able to make an avid triad slipper work using a b4 top shaft and cutting one of the b4 slipper plates down to use as an adaptor. Running them on my other cars so nice to share spurs between them.


#12





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