Nitro Newb 101
05-29-2011, 02:05 PM
#1
Nitro Newb 101
Ok.
So I went out to the Goat Sat and the RC8 ran alright and then started acting screwy. Seemed kinda sluggish anyway as I knew I was still running kind of rich. Well, Mike out at the Goat tinkered with it for about 5 minutes and then I was able to triple the triple. Then it stopped behaving altogether. I tinkered some more and it never did act right. Mike and I believe it to be a stopped up filter as it was wayyyyy dusty that day.
There are 4 adjustments on the .28 AE Pro. Idle screw 100% sure. High Speed 100% sure. and then a screw on the same side of high speed screw on carb barrel. I did some research and some people have been calling this the mid screw. The screw on the slide with the throttle body being the low speed screw.
From what I have been reading there is no such thing as a mid screw. The screw opposite the throttle body is the LS Seat and the opposite side screw in the throttle body is the LS needle. Soooo, what the majority of people are saying is that the same end result is gained on the LS when "either" screw is adjusted which makes some sense.
Needless to say I have gotten things waaaaaaay jacked up as I have a tendency to do. Its just my nature...
I have the instructions for the engine and it has original screw settings for HS, and the og setting for the low speed(throttle body side) But it has nothing on the LS seat screw that is on the same side with the HS needle. Any suggestions?
I also noticed some air bubbles in the fuel line that seem to be originating from the fuel tank. I changed out fuel tanks to no avail. I am still not sure where they are coming from. I thought about a zip tie for the barb fitting to see if that would keep the air out.
I think a Nitro Clinic in Julio's
future would be a great idea.
TIA
So I went out to the Goat Sat and the RC8 ran alright and then started acting screwy. Seemed kinda sluggish anyway as I knew I was still running kind of rich. Well, Mike out at the Goat tinkered with it for about 5 minutes and then I was able to triple the triple. Then it stopped behaving altogether. I tinkered some more and it never did act right. Mike and I believe it to be a stopped up filter as it was wayyyyy dusty that day.
There are 4 adjustments on the .28 AE Pro. Idle screw 100% sure. High Speed 100% sure. and then a screw on the same side of high speed screw on carb barrel. I did some research and some people have been calling this the mid screw. The screw on the slide with the throttle body being the low speed screw.
From what I have been reading there is no such thing as a mid screw. The screw opposite the throttle body is the LS Seat and the opposite side screw in the throttle body is the LS needle. Soooo, what the majority of people are saying is that the same end result is gained on the LS when "either" screw is adjusted which makes some sense.
Needless to say I have gotten things waaaaaaay jacked up as I have a tendency to do. Its just my nature...
I have the instructions for the engine and it has original screw settings for HS, and the og setting for the low speed(throttle body side) But it has nothing on the LS seat screw that is on the same side with the HS needle. Any suggestions?
I also noticed some air bubbles in the fuel line that seem to be originating from the fuel tank. I changed out fuel tanks to no avail. I am still not sure where they are coming from. I thought about a zip tie for the barb fitting to see if that would keep the air out.
I think a Nitro Clinic in Julio's
future would be a great idea.TIA
05-29-2011, 04:07 PM
#2
I completely feel your pain!!! Except I am going through it with electric. I have had a ton of nitro vehicles for the last 10 years and am completely comnfortable with that. All this "1c" "2c" and all these ratings are really confusing. My Losi SCTE I think is going to get here this week and I am at a total loss on all this terminology. I have spent a couple hours reading the instructions for my charger and this whole Lipo thing is really confusing to me. Hopefully I figure it out and a few weekends I will be racing at the new Karns Split-Level!
Nitro can be tricky at first to tune. I more often than not take the motor apart and put it back togeteher just to make sure it is tightened down correctly and everything is sealed right. More than likely you are rich. I got the original HPI Savage .21 when it first came out like 10 years ago and it had the low, high needle and a mid-range needle like you talked about. It was by far the hardest to tune b/c of the mid-range needle. I never touched it once it ran all right, just the low and high needle.
Nitro can be tricky at first to tune. I more often than not take the motor apart and put it back togeteher just to make sure it is tightened down correctly and everything is sealed right. More than likely you are rich. I got the original HPI Savage .21 when it first came out like 10 years ago and it had the low, high needle and a mid-range needle like you talked about. It was by far the hardest to tune b/c of the mid-range needle. I never touched it once it ran all right, just the low and high needle.
05-29-2011, 04:14 PM
#3
Also, I had a problem with fuel lines one time. Your gas tank is probably fine as I am assuming this is a new nitro vehicle. Don;t know if it was a manufacturing defect or I punctured it somehow, but I had a small pinhole size puncture in a fuel line that was sucking air. No leaking and couldn'e really see it. Changed fuel lines and problem similar to yours was solved. As cheap as fuel line is I would try that also!
05-29-2011, 06:17 PM
#4
Alrighty.
Replaced all the fuel lines and added zip ties on all connections that I could fit one.
I also found the specs on all the needles. Got them back to factory specs or close anyway.
If I don't get this thing humming by this weekend looks like I will run e-buggy.
I do have a spare motor. Its a .28 as well. I think just about all of these current issues are user incurred. The only issue that I haven't yet got a clue about is the mystery bubbles which I am guessing would wreak havoc with the engine.
Still loving nitro. Just need an edumencation...
Replaced all the fuel lines and added zip ties on all connections that I could fit one.
I also found the specs on all the needles. Got them back to factory specs or close anyway.
If I don't get this thing humming by this weekend looks like I will run e-buggy.
I do have a spare motor. Its a .28 as well. I think just about all of these current issues are user incurred. The only issue that I haven't yet got a clue about is the mystery bubbles which I am guessing would wreak havoc with the engine.
Still loving nitro. Just need an edumencation...
05-29-2011, 08:45 PM
#5
Post your problem in the nitro offroad engine thread and you will get tons of help. Not many check the East TN racing forum.
From my experience a few bubbles in the line are not an issue and have not affected my tune. If they are often and consistent you may have a leak. If your engine has a mid screw leave it at factory and only use the HSN and LSN to tune.
There is a "engine tuning bible" that is a sticky at the top of the forum and it has a lot of great info on getting started with nitro.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...ine-forum-157/
From my experience a few bubbles in the line are not an issue and have not affected my tune. If they are often and consistent you may have a leak. If your engine has a mid screw leave it at factory and only use the HSN and LSN to tune.
There is a "engine tuning bible" that is a sticky at the top of the forum and it has a lot of great info on getting started with nitro.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...ine-forum-157/
05-30-2011, 09:41 AM
#6
Looks like I had I had a ton of self-induced problems. JS-toe gave me a shout and help clear up some basic combustion theory questions that I had. He also suggested that I check with mfg info on fuel/pressure line lengths. I just replaced the fuel line the way it was run when I got the buggy. Needless to say all my lines were routed wrong and were too short...
I thought that a glow plugs purpose was to initiate the first explosion in the combustion sequence and then it was done. John explained that the coil would "re-ignite" on every revolution to maintain combustion. I haven't changed the plug since break in. I imagine on the next go around with the buggy it will be a different experience as I had totally jacked things up. I corrected fuel length and routing, reset all needles to factory setpoint, and replaced glow plug.
Thanks CoachLewis for the advice. I know just about all the guys in here and they all know me well enough to know that they need to draw me pics using crayon, macaroni, and elmer's glue. Hehehe.
I didn't want to subject the general population to my level of mechanical ineptitude.
I thought that a glow plugs purpose was to initiate the first explosion in the combustion sequence and then it was done. John explained that the coil would "re-ignite" on every revolution to maintain combustion. I haven't changed the plug since break in. I imagine on the next go around with the buggy it will be a different experience as I had totally jacked things up. I corrected fuel length and routing, reset all needles to factory setpoint, and replaced glow plug.
Thanks CoachLewis for the advice. I know just about all the guys in here and they all know me well enough to know that they need to draw me pics using crayon, macaroni, and elmer's glue. Hehehe.
I didn't want to subject the general population to my level of mechanical ineptitude.
05-30-2011, 04:27 PM
#7
Different car today. Its still running a bit rich, but I can't lean it out anymore with that fresh pinch.
I am guessing here correct me if I am wrong. More pinch the more contact between the piston and the sleeve thus more heat. It makes sense in my head...thats my theory and I am gonna stick with it.
I can start it and idle forever, then gas it and it has plenty of leap on the low end. The high side is prolly a quarter turn rich. Running about 215-220 tops.
That Nitro Bible is a pretty good read. Thanks JS-Toe and CoachLewis.
I am guessing here correct me if I am wrong. More pinch the more contact between the piston and the sleeve thus more heat. It makes sense in my head...thats my theory and I am gonna stick with it.
I can start it and idle forever, then gas it and it has plenty of leap on the low end. The high side is prolly a quarter turn rich. Running about 215-220 tops.
That Nitro Bible is a pretty good read. Thanks JS-Toe and CoachLewis.
05-31-2011, 05:08 PM
#8
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
I had problems like that with my nitro savage and it took me a while to figure it out but i took all the carb screws out made sure the orings were good. then put some green slime around them to make sure they had a good seal. Then took the back plate off and the carb body and put some high temp RTV on it so make sure there was no leaks. Replaced fuel lines, and after all that was done it now holds a tune like a dream. Just some ideas on where to look....
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