Fullthrottle Motorsports
#5026
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
I know I may not be the most popular person here but I wanted to add my input since I personally have known many of you way before full throttle. This is all great info. Fred and Mike have both done their homework very well. Cells today are so sensitive to changes that you might not get consistant results. (IE summertime cells peak out lower voltage vs Winter cells peak out higher voltage). Guidlines for IB3800's were .7 cut off for equalizing. .9 for pulsing. I think that you will find with time that .9 for equalizing will work just as well.
The real battle we all have to fight is motors. How to keep them from overheating. I know Mike ran into this problem and he was not the only one. I heard that it was pretty common. I can suggest put at least 2 fans on your car. Team Tamale makes a trick fan mount that allows up to three fans and its about 15 bucks. The other thing is on those hot days (IE MD Charity race this past July) you sacrifice a little over all power for consistant 5 minute run. I recently read a post by Eddie0...someone asked him how do you know if your motor is too hot. He said as long as your lap times don't drop more than 3 tenths per lap your fine. I have personally had motors come off over 200 degrees and they showed no fade. Every motor is different. This is the battle that guys like Bill and Eddie and EA all have to go through. Bill's doing a great job. I'm sure he will continue to push the envelope with new ideas....it's up to you guys as team drivers to really test it and give him the feedback to know whats working.
With that being said, you guys all know me. if you have questions and no ones getting back to you (yes they do get busy sometimes) shoot me a PM.
Bill, I hope to see you this winter at the ORL races. And yes, you are still welcome anytime you need a place to crash for the races....LOL
The real battle we all have to fight is motors. How to keep them from overheating. I know Mike ran into this problem and he was not the only one. I heard that it was pretty common. I can suggest put at least 2 fans on your car. Team Tamale makes a trick fan mount that allows up to three fans and its about 15 bucks. The other thing is on those hot days (IE MD Charity race this past July) you sacrifice a little over all power for consistant 5 minute run. I recently read a post by Eddie0...someone asked him how do you know if your motor is too hot. He said as long as your lap times don't drop more than 3 tenths per lap your fine. I have personally had motors come off over 200 degrees and they showed no fade. Every motor is different. This is the battle that guys like Bill and Eddie and EA all have to go through. Bill's doing a great job. I'm sure he will continue to push the envelope with new ideas....it's up to you guys as team drivers to really test it and give him the feedback to know whats working.
With that being said, you guys all know me. if you have questions and no ones getting back to you (yes they do get busy sometimes) shoot me a PM.
Bill, I hope to see you this winter at the ORL races. And yes, you are still welcome anytime you need a place to crash for the races....LOL
#5028
Tech Champion
iTrader: (264)
Originally Posted by MrBoyd
Unfortunately, us off-roaders can't put fans on the motors because the tranny and bumper are in the way... I'm gonna try a vertical slot this week to see what difference it makes. If that doesn't work, then I'm gonna try charging at 4-5 amps to reduce voltage and thus reduce fade at the end of the race. Hopefully that tactic will net higher speeds at the end and a stronger finish.
Try the standoffs Mike mentioned. Charging at a lower rate will reduce the heat but also the power. Make sure you clean the fan and motor after every run and reoil the bearings or bushings.
#5029
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by RC_Dan
Hi Bill, not sure where we left off, but thought I would check in.
I have been super busy racing the 1:1 car, but with the season winding to a close, I will have a lot more time for RC. I plan to get back into off road this winter.
What's the hot setup for stock 2wd? Thanks!
Dan
I have been super busy racing the 1:1 car, but with the season winding to a close, I will have a lot more time for RC. I plan to get back into off road this winter.
What's the hot setup for stock 2wd? Thanks!
Dan
#5030
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
Originally Posted by SRW141
I will be at Mimi's this afternoon running the Darkside Motorsport's Mx2 12th scale. Paul Buohl will be there also. We are starting to get prepared for the upcoming ORL2 winter series and NORTH/SOUTH Shootout.
#5032
Originally Posted by RC Old Man
Now that we have that down......If you don't understand or have more questions pm me.....
Bill had asked me about the cells going bad or venting even with a brand new pack. What I and many others have found is that we are now matching at 35amps to "weed" (yes I said weed) out the bad cells faster. In doing so you put more load and more heat into the cell. This causes a bad cell to go bad faster and a good cell to also go bad faster. It is not anyones fault, be it the end user or the matcher. IB cells don't like heat. So there may be some cases where a brand new pack just assembled has a cell go bad within the first or second charge. If this happens just contact the matcher and they should replace the cell at no cost.
I personally know that all the matchers and manufactures are working to solve this problem. How? I am not sure. Possibly matching them with a pulse discharge or some kind of heat sink.
Things are changing rapidly in the RC industry right now. So whats good today may be bad tomorrow. Just stick with what works and dont try the new "trick of the week" right away.
Bill had asked me about the cells going bad or venting even with a brand new pack. What I and many others have found is that we are now matching at 35amps to "weed" (yes I said weed) out the bad cells faster. In doing so you put more load and more heat into the cell. This causes a bad cell to go bad faster and a good cell to also go bad faster. It is not anyones fault, be it the end user or the matcher. IB cells don't like heat. So there may be some cases where a brand new pack just assembled has a cell go bad within the first or second charge. If this happens just contact the matcher and they should replace the cell at no cost.
I personally know that all the matchers and manufactures are working to solve this problem. How? I am not sure. Possibly matching them with a pulse discharge or some kind of heat sink.
Things are changing rapidly in the RC industry right now. So whats good today may be bad tomorrow. Just stick with what works and dont try the new "trick of the week" right away.
Reedy KR 7X2 5 min. Finishing just be for the battery dumps. May dump on the last lap. All I have is the Teken Bat DR. So, No good.
After running discharge .90 cut off recharge and store 500 to 1000ah
If I use the Tekin Dr. for equalizing till i get Muchmore tray is it better then nothing?
Next. You say If you get a bad cell send it back for replacement. Disassemble
the pack?
I'll let every know how I do on Sunday. I not sure how the standing are as of now. I believe I'm tied for first after 3 races of 6 race series.
#5033
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
Third place....I would use the tray but keep close watch on it and as soon as it is done start charging. I don't think that momentary voltage drop is going to harm you...well lets just say I think charging the equalized pack will out way the harm that the low voltage causes.
#5035
Tech Champion
iTrader: (264)
Originally Posted by thirdplace
OK, Now that I'm am totally lost with all this battery talk. Lets see if I got anything right. This Sunday I will be racing Oval. 4cell Mod. Got 3 new 4200 packs from Bill. I have Turbo 35 charger. Plan to charge at 6 amp. Running a
Reedy KR 7X2 5 min. Finishing just be for the battery dumps. May dump on the last lap. All I have is the Teken Bat DR. So, No good.
After running discharge .90 cut off recharge and store 500 to 1000ah
If I use the Tekin Dr. for equalizing till i get Muchmore tray is it better then nothing?
Next. You say If you get a bad cell send it back for replacement. Disassemble
the pack?
I'll let every know how I do on Sunday. I not sure how the standing are as of now. I believe I'm tied for first after 3 races of 6 race series.
Reedy KR 7X2 5 min. Finishing just be for the battery dumps. May dump on the last lap. All I have is the Teken Bat DR. So, No good.
After running discharge .90 cut off recharge and store 500 to 1000ah
If I use the Tekin Dr. for equalizing till i get Muchmore tray is it better then nothing?
Next. You say If you get a bad cell send it back for replacement. Disassemble
the pack?
I'll let every know how I do on Sunday. I not sure how the standing are as of now. I believe I'm tied for first after 3 races of 6 race series.
#5036
Bill sorry for not calling you yesterday as I was sick all day yesterday and didn't really ever move outta bed.. so I'll give you a should today
-DC-
-DC-
#5037
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
November 11th/ The Track Gaitherburg, MD US Indoor Warm Up race
December 8, 9 and 10/ North South Shootout Horsham, PA
ORL2 Winter Series/ Nov. 11th, Dec. 2nd, Jan, 20th, Feb 24th and March ? Can't remember
US Indoor Thanksgiving weekend
Halloween Classic/ The Gate Cleveland Oct. 27, 28 and 29
These are some race's that i know of right now.
December 8, 9 and 10/ North South Shootout Horsham, PA
ORL2 Winter Series/ Nov. 11th, Dec. 2nd, Jan, 20th, Feb 24th and March ? Can't remember
US Indoor Thanksgiving weekend
Halloween Classic/ The Gate Cleveland Oct. 27, 28 and 29
These are some race's that i know of right now.
#5038
Last edited by smitty2802; 09-28-2006 at 08:44 AM.
#5039
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
Originally Posted by SRW141
December 8,9 and 10 at Horsham, Pa Entry forms should be up very soon. Tag said he was going to work on them when he got back from Vegas
wait, horsham has wireless inside, right?? I could "work from home" from there