cneyedog

iTrader: (12)

Scott, I had the same problem prior to the Bash , my motor had never been apart prior to the sensor board failure I had in my 25.5 , as I have posted here R1 made things right. I hope they have found a solution as my R1 25.5 in my VTA car this past weekend ran fantastic at the Bash .... couldnt catch myron , but hung with him only 2 sec back ....... I'll make sure I have a fresher battery next time

ASM

iTrader: (30)

Rich, your car was fast for sure! Myron with his Reedy won but I believe R1 finished 2nd - 5th, with you, Dave, Ed and myself rounding out the top 5. Maybe I'll reach out to see if they'll replace the board.

doogle1973

My R1 25.5 V16 is on its 3rd sensor board. It was about 4 months for the first one to go out, but the second one lasted about 2 practice runs. Now its on its 3rd board and not in a car currently.....
It was slow and always ran hot before it went out, but i may have over geared it....

PDR

iTrader: (31)

Has anybody got a view as to what is actually failing on the sensor boards? I cannot imagine the hall effect sensors would fail unless physically damaged. Is the soldering faulty?

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Maybe dendrites...Might need to get better quality control at the factory, etc....

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

On mine, one of the hall sensors had fallen off of the board. The motor ran for two laps around the track before it slowed. I pulled it apart to find the sensor missing entirely from the board.

PDR

iTrader: (31)

Yikes! That's not good at all. Any chance the rotor was rubbing on the sensor? Probably hard to tell after the fact...

I've built a small y-adapter that can show the sensors functioning. Sort of a standalone version of what's in a Tekin ESC ;-)

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

The other 2 sensors didn't show any signs of rubbing, so I don't think that was the cause.

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

So, my esc just stopped working. Haven’t ran car in a couple weeks. Plugged battery in (correctly) and car came on. Servo will turn, but no throttle response. I get a rapidly black bling red light on the esc power button. I tried to use program bad to reset, then calibrate, but no luck. ESC will not calibrate. I’m sure the rapidly blinking light means something, but there is no fault guide anywhere I can find. I was hoping this is something I can correct without it being sent back under warranty.

Thanks in advance.

tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

The attached pdf contains a section for the LED status indicator.

Drew Manzella

iTrader: (35)

Is there a way to tell what version an R1 motor is without having the can it came in with the label?

Thanks!

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Post a pic

lowdoughracer

iTrader: (1)

Anyone been running the V16 17.5 in 2wd buggy? If so, what rotor/timing are you running and how has it been compared to other motors? I have a V16 that I used for one race in a 1/12th scale pan car, and was thinking about trying out 2wd buggy in the near future. I am trying to decide if it would be better to sell the motor with the car and find something else, or if I run the motor in a buggy and just change the timing or a rotor to make it competitive. Thanks for all of the help!

wrutherf

iTrader: (10)

For those that have had an issue with new motor sensor boards, who / how are you contacting R1? Local guy at our track just purchased one, installed - Out of the box appears to have issue. We swapped sensor wires, Speedo, I took my R1 out and put in his car - with no issues. So i know it is the motor he got. I also noticed that there is NO slop in the rotor - it is pinched pretty tight. We have not pulled the motor apart yet to look at it.

Is it worth trying to re-shim rotor and see if it is just the rotor position to the board? or contact R1 about potential board replacement?


Thanks

cneyedog

iTrader: (12)

I contacted them via email thru their website https://r1wurks.com/pages/contact