Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road > Team and Company Discussions
Trinity and ReVtech Motors discussion >

Trinity and ReVtech Motors discussion

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree363Likes

Trinity and ReVtech Motors discussion

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-17-2011, 06:51 PM
  #226  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 15
Default

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Chances are the high torque rotor could be slightly longer, ie more magnet, which would give it the higher torque, so if its longer you would need a shorter spacer to set the proper end play. A high rpm rotor will be a little shorter so the opposite is true, that you would need a longer spacer for proper end play. In general rotors that are rated as rpm and torque can vary in many different ways, either by length of rotor magnet material, or the actual shaft inside the rotor magnet can be a bigger or smaller diameter, its all in how they vary the magnet strength. Of course in a spec motor there are measurements that the rotor has to follow in order to be legal as well.

Again, I cant overstate the importance of making sure the back end of the rotor does not touch the sensors. That is really the most important thing on setting the motor up. This can become a big problem if they touch.
I'm learning more and more and thank you for that... So basically set the rotor into the the sensor board and use as many shims as needed so the rotor doesn't hit the tabs on the board? Would coming with 4 shims mean you might have to use all 4? There are 3 normal size ones then 1 very thin one... Just trying to learn more and more... Thanks again! So also use the shorter of the larger shims on the pinion side of the rotor due to your explanation aye?
BrutalBotek is offline  
Old 12-17-2011, 07:01 PM
  #227  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,762
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BrutalBotek
I'm learning more and more and thank you for that... So basically set the rotor into the the sensor board and use as many shims as needed so the rotor doesn't hit the tabs on the board? Would coming with 4 shims mean you might have to use all 4? There are 3 normal size ones then 1 very thin one... Just trying to learn more and more... Thanks again! So also use the shorter of the larger shims on the pinion side of the rotor due to your explanation aye?

Yes that's correct, it might take all 4 or it may take 2 you have to set the gap, but as close as possible without touching is ideal. Then on the other side put one of those long shims on and put the backing plate on, like it's fully assembled, then pull on the shaft and see if you have any side play, you want just a very small amount but not tight. That end could use one of the long spacers and a combination of some of the thin ones as well, this is how you set you're end play. Just don't make it so there isn't any or the motor will be too tight and probably run badly and have a lot of heat issues.
Johnny Wishbone is offline  
Old 12-17-2011, 08:00 PM
  #228  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 15
Default

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Yes that's correct, it might take all 4 or it may take 2 you have to set the gap, but as close as possible without touching is ideal. Then on the other side put one of those long shims on and put the backing plate on, like it's fully assembled, then pull on the shaft and see if you have any side play, you want just a very small amount but not tight. That end could use one of the long spacers and a combination of some of the thin ones as well, this is how you set you're end play. Just don't make it so there isn't any or the motor will be too tight and probably run badly and have a lot of heat issues.
Thanks for the info! I will set it so there is just a little bit of play in the rotor!
BrutalBotek is offline  
Old 12-19-2011, 02:02 PM
  #229  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
cwoods34's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Indy-freakin'-ana
Posts: 1,156
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BrutalBotek
Thanks for the info! I will set it so there is just a little bit of play in the rotor!
I played around with shimming on a D2 I have. I got it just a hair off the sensors, then took all but maybe .75mm of play out of it on the other end. With the same gearing and timing as prior, it literally made enough difference that I noticed it on the bottom end..... the motor FELT much better, and it took about 5-10*F off.
cwoods34 is offline  
Old 12-19-2011, 03:42 PM
  #230  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
 
Warren Weaver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NASCAR COUNTRY
Posts: 2,754
Trader Rating: 49 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by cwoods34
I played around with shimming on a D2 I have. I got it just a hair off the sensors, then took all but maybe .75mm of play out of it on the other end. With the same gearing and timing as prior, it literally made enough difference that I noticed it on the bottom end..... the motor FELT much better, and it took about 5-10*F off.
yes that is definetly true we used to build brushed motors that way and the closest you can get the rotor to the sensor board without touching it makes a huge difference on the track and the dyno
Warren Weaver is offline  
Old 12-23-2011, 12:18 AM
  #231  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 8,616
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Hey I was given a 13.5T to run in my B4.1. What kind of FDR / gear ratio do I wanna be at. I was told it's a Trinity Duo, the original one.

I can calculate it out if you can give me what the final should be.
Bob Barry is offline  
Old 12-23-2011, 08:48 AM
  #232  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I heard thru the grapevine that some Revtech drivers are using the 12.5mm High Torque rotors for 17.5 1/12th scale, with pretty huge rollouts(ie: 105+ mm).

Any truth to this? I was under the impression that most were using the lower magnet strength 12.3mm rotors for blinky 1/12th.
JamesL_71 is offline  
Old 12-23-2011, 09:44 AM
  #233  
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Everett
Posts: 1,428
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by JamesL_71
I heard thru the grapevine that some Revtech drivers are using the 12.5mm High Torque rotors for 17.5 1/12th scale, with pretty huge rollouts(ie: 105+ mm).

Any truth to this? I was under the impression that most were using the lower magnet strength 12.3mm rotors for blinky 1/12th.
That's how I have mine setup, the roll out is not crazy high, at the last event I ran (Timezone GP) I was rolled out around 100-105mm ... It was fast, enough so people were whining that I must be running boost. It did not have more top end than anyone but would rip mid corner.

It was difficult finding a timing it liked however and not have massive fade.
Wes Briscoe is offline  
Old 12-23-2011, 10:50 AM
  #234  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Wes Briscoe
That's how I have mine setup, the roll out is not crazy high, at the last event I ran (Timezone GP) I was rolled out around 100-105mm ... It was fast, enough so people were whining that I must be running boost. It did not have more top end than anyone but would rip mid corner.

It was difficult finding a timing it liked however and not have massive fade.
Thanks for the info Wes.

Any suggestions on starting points for timing? Maybe 2 hash marks positive?
JamesL_71 is offline  
Old 12-24-2011, 07:45 AM
  #235  
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Everett
Posts: 1,428
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by JamesL_71
Thanks for the info Wes.

Any suggestions on starting points for timing? Maybe 2 hash marks positive?
That would be a fine starting point.

I always start with the timing cranked, and back it off a mark at a time and compare lap times over 5 minutes. Whichever timing mark yields the fastest average is where it stays.

But you could do it the other way, start at 0 and work your way up. Either way you get fast eventually, as long as you are in the neighborhood of where you should be rolled out at.
Wes Briscoe is offline  
Old 12-24-2011, 08:04 AM
  #236  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (63)
 
J.Whiting's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: a very small town in wisconsin that is in the middle of absolutely no where
Posts: 5,155
Trader Rating: 63 (100%+)
Default

ok so i picked up a few of the revtech 17.5 motors.. i have been running the old red can trinity 17.5 ( duo 2 ).. what will the main differences be? also if i am at a 4.2 fdr ( no boost ) will the gearing be the same or will i need to make a slight change? on the red can i have +15* or third make for timing.. what will the revtech be? same or different? i also heard to shim the rotor as close to the sensors as possible without hitting them.. is this a performance again or does nothing at all? here is a quick video of my home track. yes i am the lead car..

http://www.rctech.net/forum/wisconsi...-marcca-2.html

thanks in advance.. jeremy
J.Whiting is offline  
Old 12-24-2011, 06:00 PM
  #237  
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Everett
Posts: 1,428
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by J.Whiting
ok so i picked up a few of the revtech 17.5 motors.. i have been running the old red can trinity 17.5 ( duo 2 ).. what will the main differences be? also if i am at a 4.2 fdr ( no boost ) will the gearing be the same or will i need to make a slight change? on the red can i have +15* or third make for timing.. what will the revtech be? same or different? i also heard to shim the rotor as close to the sensors as possible without hitting them.. is this a performance again or does nothing at all? here is a quick video of my home track. yes i am the lead car..

http://www.rctech.net/forum/wisconsi...-marcca-2.html

thanks in advance.. jeremy
Generally you will run a higher gear ratio. At our track which is large, guys run 3.9 versus 3.6-.9 with the D3. Timing and gearing vary from motor to motor, even motors of the same type you may need to change your gearing timing around to suit your needs. I would try 1-2 timing marks before maximum and go from there with 2S. It will get you in a general ball park.
Wes Briscoe is offline  
Old 12-28-2011, 09:38 AM
  #238  
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
 
J.Filipow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,693
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

I want to let all of the Trinity fans and drivers out there know about the debut Industry Series release from P1 Brand. The "Jim Dieter Signature" tee is limited edition, screenprinted shirt that is a unique homage to the legendary motorman. Packaged inside of a paint can with a custom label wrap, these tees are available directly from the P1Brand.com online shop, and there are only a few remaining.
Attached Thumbnails Trinity and ReVtech Motors discussion-p1_dieter_cans.jpg   Trinity and ReVtech Motors discussion-p1_dieter_detail_2.jpg   Trinity and ReVtech Motors discussion-p1_dieter_front.jpg  
J.Filipow is offline  
Old 01-02-2012, 05:17 PM
  #239  
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Everett
Posts: 1,428
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by J.Filipow
I want to let all of the Trinity fans and drivers out there know about the debut Industry Series release from P1 Brand. The "Jim Dieter Signature" tee is limited edition, screenprinted shirt that is a unique homage to the legendary motorman. Packaged inside of a paint can with a custom label wrap, these tees are available directly from the P1Brand.com online shop, and there are only a few remaining.
I got mine

It's a kick ass shirt, really excellent quality. I have been impressed with how well it's held up in the wash too, I usually always "size up" and let the shirt shrink down, these haven't shrank and the printing is still dialed.

So far the best RC quality RC shirts I've ever owned.
Wes Briscoe is offline  
Old 01-07-2012, 04:02 AM
  #240  
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,238
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

confused about rotors. Whats the difference for 12.3 high torque and 12.5 high torque for a duo 3 13.5. This is for short course application
goots is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.