78LikesEAMotorsports discussion thread
01-23-2005, 02:35 PM
#1246
John, EA told how to set them up earlier in the thread, but here's the answer anyway...
1-using fine sandpaper or the face of your cut-off wheel, knock the edged off the face of the brush. Usually about the depth of the serrations or a hair more depending on how much torque you need.
2-double check the alignment of the hood (EA motors are already aligned)
3-break the motor in for 600 sec @ 2V using Zuback's juice to break in the brushes.
4-clean the motor with motor spray, lightly oil the bushings and run it.
5-if the motor runs considerably cooler 30-40degrees, then hang another tooth and let her rip!! I can easily get 8-10 runs just cleaning the motor between and I always gear my motors hard cause I run the cheaper club packs.
1-using fine sandpaper or the face of your cut-off wheel, knock the edged off the face of the brush. Usually about the depth of the serrations or a hair more depending on how much torque you need.
2-double check the alignment of the hood (EA motors are already aligned)
3-break the motor in for 600 sec @ 2V using Zuback's juice to break in the brushes.
4-clean the motor with motor spray, lightly oil the bushings and run it.
5-if the motor runs considerably cooler 30-40degrees, then hang another tooth and let her rip!! I can easily get 8-10 runs just cleaning the motor between and I always gear my motors hard cause I run the cheaper club packs.
01-23-2005, 02:41 PM
#1247
Thanks Big D,
i usally dont run in my brushes because I want to get some extra runs out of them, but even with breaking the F's you get 8 runs, thats great.
i usally dont run in my brushes because I want to get some extra runs out of them, but even with breaking the F's you get 8 runs, thats great.
01-23-2005, 03:05 PM
#1248
Tech Rookie
Hi there Colin, I went racing this sunday and i also had the same problem someone above talks about 
. The motor (new EA monster stock) cut out after just 3 laps almost like a sticking brush. I droped out of the heat and looked over the motor and nothing looked wrong so i took the brushes out and there wasnt any burning and diss colour on the com or brushes. So i just com sticked the brush faces and cleaned the com and poped it back together. It ran fine after. Maybe the brushes or com have a coating to protect them in transit and storage.
Nothing wrong with the motors, I think there great but i think people should maybe just pop abit of motor cleaner on the com and brushes before u run for the first time.
. The motor (new EA monster stock) cut out after just 3 laps almost like a sticking brush. I droped out of the heat and looked over the motor and nothing looked wrong so i took the brushes out and there wasnt any burning and diss colour on the com or brushes. So i just com sticked the brush faces and cleaned the com and poped it back together. It ran fine after. Maybe the brushes or com have a coating to protect them in transit and storage.Nothing wrong with the motors, I think there great but i think people should maybe just pop abit of motor cleaner on the com and brushes before u run for the first time.
01-23-2005, 03:08 PM
#1249
Originally posted by BigDogRacing
Guys first of all you are looking at the wrong thing- you can't rely on amps at 2V with the F brushes. The fastest motor I own is an EA monster out of the box of motors EA was selling at Nashville and it only pull 5.7-6 amps @ 2V and only showed 58watts on a Fantom dyno. It just doesn't look like it will be fast on anything but the CE turbodyno. Put it on the track and she rocks!!
My point is, don't tune the amps, you won't get anywhere. Just set the brushes up like Eric and run it. I can usually run 1, possibly 2 teeth higher gearing with the F brushes.
Guys first of all you are looking at the wrong thing- you can't rely on amps at 2V with the F brushes. The fastest motor I own is an EA monster out of the box of motors EA was selling at Nashville and it only pull 5.7-6 amps @ 2V and only showed 58watts on a Fantom dyno. It just doesn't look like it will be fast on anything but the CE turbodyno. Put it on the track and she rocks!!
My point is, don't tune the amps, you won't get anywhere. Just set the brushes up like Eric and run it. I can usually run 1, possibly 2 teeth higher gearing with the F brushes.
I know that amps are not what matters. I ran both motors on the track and palyed with gearing but was not able to get them to run as well as the 767's did. I did not see the post that Eric wrote about the prep of the brushes as you posted. I will try doing those steps and see if I get better results.
01-23-2005, 03:20 PM
#1250
Bigdog- are you also running the drops during breakin of the 19t's?
Do you re-apply the drops after the cleanings?
Great info!
EA Driver Doug Gaut had a great weekend at the Blizzard Blast Carpet race in Hutchinson, KS. Qualified 3rd in 19t just behind Ron Atomic and Kyle Skidmore....He ran an EA C2 based motor that had all kinds of HP. I ran one as well and WOW....!!
Jeff
Do you re-apply the drops after the cleanings?
Great info!
EA Driver Doug Gaut had a great weekend at the Blizzard Blast Carpet race in Hutchinson, KS. Qualified 3rd in 19t just behind Ron Atomic and Kyle Skidmore....He ran an EA C2 based motor that had all kinds of HP. I ran one as well and WOW....!!
Jeff
01-23-2005, 04:03 PM
#1251
Jeff, yes in every motor. I also don't put any kind of drops after break-in but EA says that in certain circumstances he advises using Tribo... personally I've never had much lick with any kind of comm drops and I finally just quit trying. I'm a believer in laptime dynoing...lol... and I just can't make the drops go faster.
01-23-2005, 06:09 PM
#1252
Tech Initiate
I'm not looking to tune my motors via amp readings either, its just worrying when ur motor checker cant check the motor lol.
I've never liked drops myself, think they make a real mess of comm and brushes, and there's no exact science to applying them. Just wonder what Eric recommends.
Think the fact that my roar motor cuts out, in my case may be an indication that the motor is good according to some research I did this evening. The readings it gives on the dyno should confirm this one way or the other according to my sources.
I've never liked drops myself, think they make a real mess of comm and brushes, and there's no exact science to applying them. Just wonder what Eric recommends.
Think the fact that my roar motor cuts out, in my case may be an indication that the motor is good according to some research I did this evening. The readings it gives on the dyno should confirm this one way or the other according to my sources.
01-23-2005, 06:24 PM
#1253
I reconmend using Zubaks speed juice for breaking in motors. Its what I use here at home on all the motors I build.
On my site you will see that I reconmend also running a motor at 2volts for a few hundred seconds when you recieve them...especially people overseas!! When getting shipped I pack them as well as I can but with the motors being bounced around sometimes it may unseat the brushes. There shouldnt be any film on the comm's or brushes. I clean everything after dynoing them to ensure they are perfect when they arrive to the consumer.
EA
On my site you will see that I reconmend also running a motor at 2volts for a few hundred seconds when you recieve them...especially people overseas!! When getting shipped I pack them as well as I can but with the motors being bounced around sometimes it may unseat the brushes. There shouldnt be any film on the comm's or brushes. I clean everything after dynoing them to ensure they are perfect when they arrive to the consumer.
EA
01-23-2005, 06:27 PM
#1254
Also guys my website can now be reached at www.ea-motorsports.com The other one still works too which is www.eamotorsports.360k.com
Thanks
EA
Thanks
EA
01-23-2005, 07:22 PM
#1255
What does sanding the edge of the face off do to the brush?
-Buddy
-Buddy
01-23-2005, 08:08 PM
#1256
Buddy,
Taking a little off the edges reduced the overlap which drops the timing a little. I will take away RPM but will add torque, watts and eff. To give an idea how much to take the width of a comm slot on the comm is 2 degrees. So if you took that width off each side you would be running a 20 degree stock motor!! But it will have tons of rip!! The higher the timing the more rpm and ampdraw you have.
Hope this helps
EA
Taking a little off the edges reduced the overlap which drops the timing a little. I will take away RPM but will add torque, watts and eff. To give an idea how much to take the width of a comm slot on the comm is 2 degrees. So if you took that width off each side you would be running a 20 degree stock motor!! But it will have tons of rip!! The higher the timing the more rpm and ampdraw you have.
Hope this helps
EA
01-23-2005, 08:17 PM
#1257
Thanks alot Eric, i will keep that in mind...
-Buddy
-Buddy
01-23-2005, 09:00 PM
#1259
hey Eric... ill get with ya next week on those cells. i am gearing up to run a little 1/12th as well, so ill need some of the 4-packs.
BTW,the F-brush was used yesterday in the race in KS i went to for TQ in stock foam and 19T as well... 2nd in 19T too, may have been more, but those i know for sure!
BTW,the F-brush was used yesterday in the race in KS i went to for TQ in stock foam and 19T as well... 2nd in 19T too, may have been more, but those i know for sure!
01-23-2005, 10:28 PM
#1260
hey Guys,
Is Zubaks a special order or is it at most local hobby shops?
Is Zubaks a special order or is it at most local hobby shops?