Neither one of those serrators will do the cross-cut serrations like the 4505. The 4505 is simply Trinity's high silver laydown brush with the diagonal serrations. Supposed to make comm wear more even - less grooves cut into the comm and more even comm wear.

If you don't care about the cross cut serrations, either of those brush serrators will work fine.

Just my $.02

Rob

Personally I hate the crosscut serrations. I bought the 4504,s and the 4505's because the E brush and 99 plus brush have been on backorder for 4 months now. So I got the 4504's and 05's becasue they are the E and 99 plus compound just cross serrated. I just reserrate them with a Promatch serrator and they work great!! Ive just never had luck with the cross cuts.

EA

Just to back up EA on the cross cuts
When i had my first order i had some 4504/4505 they were cack,the 4499 were far better to supply low down power & 767`s work very well at top end
So now it`s trinity`s 4499 for torque & 767`s top speed

But beware every one drives different,gear different,races different,set there cars up different,just try & learn:cool:
I`m always learning;)

Really, Eric? Hmmm... I can't speak from a ton of experience with the 4505's but I've used them some. I can't particularly tell a difference on the track between the cross cuts and the standard horizontal cuts.

Personally, I prefer Hurricane Golds and Putnams but I'll throw in 767's in a pinch if I'm out of the Hurricane's.

Rob

Yes Putnams do make the most power but at the expense of wear. Every motor I built before I started my own company was with the Putnam Blue/Green combo. It works great but hard on the comm. I may start using them in my motors in the near future for the extreme racers.

Cant speak for the Gold brushes as I have never tried them but have heard nothing but good things about them.

EA

Call Brad and order some. I think you'll be impressed.

Rob

:cool:

I thnk the reserrated 4505 made for a very fast 12th stock motor, but in touring-the 767 is for me-but like Jolly said-to each his own.

Ray

As long as you run blue/green you can usually get a night of racing, 3-4 races before the motor drops off really at all. Green Green on the other hand :mad:

Hey guys I got to drop a plug here for Tempest 2000 (Michael Skeen). He recently started making a smaller poratable magnet zapper so I decided to try one out. This thing is the doodoo. Its the best zapper I have ever used....Better than even the ones I used to build!! If anyone is looking to purchase their own I would only recondmend his unit! It only weighs 26 lbs and is very small. Cost on his web site is 595.00 but for a serious racer its nothing!! Because it works!! Stocks, mods, slot car motors, anything!! It has raised every motor I have zapped...torque and bottom end power!!

Just wanted to share that with all my customers. And before anyone ask I DID buy my zapper from him....No freebies!! Michael is tooooo tight for that!! LOL

ROAR stocks should be back in stock mid of next week!!

Thanks

EA

Thanks, I guess Eric LOL

That's ok you guys should've heard EA's pocket book when he went to get the check out... I almost offered him a can of WD40 to fix that SQUEAK :lol:

Glad you like it though... Now just think you can build even MORE HP. Maybe we should've glued down the carpet at our track EA so you don't peel up the carpet :D

Just make sure you got enough for this weekend...

Michael

EA and MS. At what point should you re zap the magnets in a motor? Before each run-before each race day? Also, can you get to a point that the magnets just do not rezap well enough that its time to replace the can? Thanks

Brant

Not taking EA's thread over or anything, but from my experience... if the motors have ever been hot (200 or above) then they definately need to be rezapped because it starts to hurt (partially reverse) the magnetic field. i.e. less torque and power

In addition over time magnets become weaker because the field that the arm creates actually deteriorates the magnets as well. This happens in both stock and mod.

HOWEVER, stock motor magnets are usually of lesser quality and deteriorate quicker.

There is no set time as to when the magnets should be rezapped. Each motor is different. If you feel the torque fading then rezap. If you dyno it and its down on torque or watts rezap it. If you own a zapper and you have the time, rezap it as often as you like :D

Me personally, I will rezap my touring motors before each race day. (I tend to run them on the warm side)

As far as the magnets go... they don't really wear out to the point you can't rezap them. However you can only zap them to 100% of THAT magnets capacity. (i.e. a glass can only be filled so full).

Just trying to save you some time Eric... I'm the one with the part/time job and all :lol:

Thank You Michael. I have had those questions for some time now and that seemed like the time and place for the answer.

The bad news is now I just added a motor zapper to my list of things I have to have. LOL Thanks

Brant

Kinetic RC now has EA's line of motors online also for the people that would like to save on shipping and get batteries and motors at the same time. Thanks Eric for all the awsome motor tuning. This message has been aproved by EA.