Setting up discussion board for on road, drifters and buggies or trucks
08-19-2011, 06:13 PM
#1
Setting up discussion board for on road, drifters and buggies or trucks
Guys,
I am setting up a few rc at a time but there is 1 thing till now i do not understand as i follow the instruction book but it does not explain why is it required to do such a thing.
Do up buggies shocks and find that base on instructions, the piston was install with o ring or spacer. what is the purpose of do that as i do not do that for on road rc?
Can some one explain?
I am setting up a few rc at a time but there is 1 thing till now i do not understand as i follow the instruction book but it does not explain why is it required to do such a thing.
Do up buggies shocks and find that base on instructions, the piston was install with o ring or spacer. what is the purpose of do that as i do not do that for on road rc?
Can some one explain?
08-21-2011, 05:14 AM
#2
Guys,
I am setting up a few rc at a time but there is 1 thing till now i do not understand as i follow the instruction book but it does not explain why is it required to do such a thing.
Do up buggies shocks and find that base on instructions, the piston was install with o ring or spacer. what is the purpose of do that as i do not do that for on road rc?
Can some one explain?
I am setting up a few rc at a time but there is 1 thing till now i do not understand as i follow the instruction book but it does not explain why is it required to do such a thing.
Do up buggies shocks and find that base on instructions, the piston was install with o ring or spacer. what is the purpose of do that as i do not do that for on road rc?
Can some one explain?
I have my Tamiya M06pro with added space into the stock. Because M06 do not have Grubscrew to controll the Droop height. the spacer, under the piston, restrict the shock travel.
- O-ring
O-ring may act the same feature or also help to protect your shock from too much knocking when your shock fully rebond.
Usually for car model design without Gubscrew at the low wishbone.
08-21-2011, 02:49 PM
#3
- Spacer
I have my Tamiya M06pro with added space into the stock. Because M06 do not have Grubscrew to controll the Droop height. the spacer, under the piston, restrict the shock travel.
- O-ring
O-ring may act the same feature or also help to protect your shock from too much knocking when your shock fully rebond.
Usually for car model design without Gubscrew at the low wishbone.
I have my Tamiya M06pro with added space into the stock. Because M06 do not have Grubscrew to controll the Droop height. the spacer, under the piston, restrict the shock travel.
- O-ring
O-ring may act the same feature or also help to protect your shock from too much knocking when your shock fully rebond.
Usually for car model design without Gubscrew at the low wishbone.
08-21-2011, 07:56 PM
#4
If I'm not wrong, your lower wishbone has hit the chassis deck which restrict the shock movement, stress build up.
(Sometime we questiion the manufacture, "Why like this".
Why the shock is too long for this car? and my spring is hanging lose when my shock full extended.)
Most manufacture are using back the same parts for their new model design(Cut Cost Save Trouble).
It also benefit consumer of using old spare parts on the new model.
08-21-2011, 10:51 PM
#5
Yes
If I'm not wrong, your lower wishbone has hit the chassis deck which restrict the shock movement, stress build up.
(Sometime we questiion the manufacture, "Why like this".
Why the shock is too long for this car? and my spring is hanging lose when my shock full extended.)
Most manufacture are using back the same parts for their new model design(Cut Cost Save Trouble).
It also benefit consumer of using old spare parts on the new model.
If I'm not wrong, your lower wishbone has hit the chassis deck which restrict the shock movement, stress build up.
(Sometime we questiion the manufacture, "Why like this".
Why the shock is too long for this car? and my spring is hanging lose when my shock full extended.)
Most manufacture are using back the same parts for their new model design(Cut Cost Save Trouble).
It also benefit consumer of using old spare parts on the new model.
08-21-2011, 11:59 PM
#6
Hmm cause i go buy the re release avante from Stargek and i find out that the rear supension seem like cannot take the weight although i had used their 900 hard silcon which when no load the suspension seem ok and strong but when with the car, when ever a jump, or speed off, the rear sus sink down but never pop up again. having this issue for some time until the vintage corner pple teach me some trick which help a bit but not totally solve the issue. then i read about the spacer thing.
The manufacture recommend ride heigth, is when your 2 rear dog-bone(Drive shaft) is parallel to the gound.
Usually on the race, racer will set the front ride height slightly(.5-2mm) lower then the rear to have weight transfer from back to front gain traction on conering.
Even a good setup buggies will have their bottom hitting the floor after jump.
Focus on setup to gain traction.
What come 1st.
Choose spring hardess for the track 1st then choose the shock oil.
Oil use must let your shock recover to your pre-set height asap but not bouncing too much.
08-22-2011, 05:50 PM
#7
Your car should come with some spring spacer for setting your ride height.
The manufacture recommend ride heigth, is when your 2 rear dog-bone(Drive shaft) is parallel to the gound.
Usually on the race, racer will set the front ride height slightly(.5-2mm) lower then the rear to have weight transfer from back to front gain traction on conering.
Even a good setup buggies will have their bottom hitting the floor after jump.
Focus on setup to gain traction.
What come 1st.
Choose spring hardess for the track 1st then choose the shock oil.
Oil use must let your shock recover to your pre-set height asap but not bouncing too much.
The manufacture recommend ride heigth, is when your 2 rear dog-bone(Drive shaft) is parallel to the gound.
Usually on the race, racer will set the front ride height slightly(.5-2mm) lower then the rear to have weight transfer from back to front gain traction on conering.
Even a good setup buggies will have their bottom hitting the floor after jump.
Focus on setup to gain traction.
What come 1st.
Choose spring hardess for the track 1st then choose the shock oil.
Oil use must let your shock recover to your pre-set height asap but not bouncing too much.
08-22-2011, 06:39 PM
#8
Your avante reminds me of my 90's race days.
I do ever fix 1 of this car for my friend.
My Schumacher CAT have very bouncy rear too.
Oil about 30wt
Watch this 1997 IFMAR World Championdhip Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cJLvSa9CcA
No problem we could meet up on the track sometime, PM me your contact
Last edited by fycheong; 08-22-2011 at 07:07 PM.
08-22-2011, 07:40 PM
#9
Your avante reminds me of my 90's race days.
I do ever fix 1 of this car for my friend.
My Schumacher CAT have very bouncy rear too.
Oil about 30wt
Watch this 1997 IFMAR World Championdhip Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cJLvSa9CcA
No problem we could meet up on the track sometime, PM me your contact
I do ever fix 1 of this car for my friend.
My Schumacher CAT have very bouncy rear too.
Oil about 30wt
Watch this 1997 IFMAR World Championdhip Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cJLvSa9CcA
No problem we could meet up on the track sometime, PM me your contact
the big issue on my avante is only on the rear shock and center diff.
rear shock seems like unable to bounces back to default lenght of the suspension. i did many things on it till i give up. maybe i should tey using my DB01 suspension on it see if it give the same issue.
the center diff seems like every time after run, the diff will get lossen out and requires to re screw it. it seems troublesome. i had ordered the Vajra gearing sets which seem to be similar to avante the center diff is 1 whole piece instead of multi pieces. will try that out and see if it works.
08-22-2011, 09:09 PM
#10
you mean at BK? haha think i will go there only when my DB01 Ready LOl
the big issue on my avante is only on the rear shock and center diff.
rear shock seems like unable to bounces back to default lenght of the suspension. i did many things on it till i give up. maybe i should tey using my DB01 suspension on it see if it give the same issue.
the center diff seems like every time after run, the diff will get lossen out and requires to re screw it. it seems troublesome. i had ordered the Vajra gearing sets which seem to be similar to avante the center diff is 1 whole piece instead of multi pieces. will try that out and see if it works.
the big issue on my avante is only on the rear shock and center diff.
rear shock seems like unable to bounces back to default lenght of the suspension. i did many things on it till i give up. maybe i should tey using my DB01 suspension on it see if it give the same issue.
the center diff seems like every time after run, the diff will get lossen out and requires to re screw it. it seems troublesome. i had ordered the Vajra gearing sets which seem to be similar to avante the center diff is 1 whole piece instead of multi pieces. will try that out and see if it works.
08-23-2011, 12:47 AM
#11
i had open up many times till i almost give up haha Vajra look similar but the center diff is direct no screw type so it will not loosen out.
Had ordered the gear 10bucks added lol
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