Calling out for TT01 Drivers!!!!
07-30-2007, 08:04 AM
#46
Tech Apprentice
i prefer gear diff... ball diff will require more motor power which 23T will b able to do the job... wat do u guys think??? I too wanna know...
07-30-2007, 08:42 AM
#47
Taken directly from www.actionrc.com.au
Your touring car gearbox (transmission) is fitted with at least one differential and possibly one at each end. The purpose of the differential is to let the wheels turn at slightly different speeds. This is necessary to help the car turn corners. When you car turns a corner, the outside wheel has to travel further than the inside wheel - thus it needs to turn slightly faster to keep up. Differentials (or diffs) in model cars are typical of two kinds. Entry level cars (from companies such as Tamiya or Kyosho) often use ‘gear diffs’ whilst more competition oriented manufacturers use ‘ball diffs’. Both work in the same way, and largely achieve the same thing.
Ball Diffs are, however, slightly adjustable. By slightly increasing or decreasing the tension on the diff screw (see your instruction manual for details on how) you can make the diff ‘looser’ or ‘tighter’ A tighter diff is one that is hard to turn. Tighter diffs help your car to put down power coming out of corners and in a straight line, whilst looser diffs help your car to turn corners better. If you loosen the diff to far, it will allow the diff to slip. Make no mistake - this is a bad thing. Diff slip damages the components of the diff and is inconsistent. Your instruction manual will describe how to tell if your diff is slipping or not. I never recommend running any diff slip.
One Ways: Some touring cars will be fitted with a front “one-way”. This allows the front wheels to over-rotate and means that the car is essentially two-wheel drive until the rear tyres start to lose traction. The advantages of a one-way are slightly higher top speed, slightly better run-time and better turn-in. The disadvantages are that the car is unstable under brakes (as it is essentially a two-wheel drive at that point) and a bit less generally “stable”. In low grip conditions a one-way can be a liability.
Spools: A more recent innovation is the use of a “spool” or locked front diff. A spool allows for no differential action and means that both front wheels are equally driven 100% of the time. Spools provide benefits in acceleration through and out of a corner, and provide great stability under brakes. The disadvantages of a spool are in loss of initial turn-in and in the incredible stresses put on the drive train. Spool-equipped cars can easily break front drive-shafts, uni-joins and diff outdrives. If you want to run a spool you would be well advised to (a) upgrade your front driveshafts and outdrives to steel or titanium; and (b) be a consistently good driver who doesn’t hit anything.
Some manufacturers offer spools as a replacement for the front diff. For most however it’s a case of converting the diff. The conversion process is relatively simple. To try it, remove and disassemble your front diff. Remove front diff balls, and make two rings matched in size to the diff/drive rings from cardboard (business cards or header cards from spare parts are ideal). Reassemble the diff with theses card rings between the diff pulley/gear and the standard drive rings. Tighten the diff completely and then back out the adjusting screw by about ¾ of a turn. If you want to try this, you should be very careful, seek assistance from someone who has done this task before, and be warned that you very likely will break parts. Converting a gear diff is a different process.
Let me say this. For 90% of racers a spool is a mistake. For most of us the standard kit setup (with either front diff or front one-way) will be more than fine. I strongly encourage you not to go down the “spool” path until you have upgraded your drive-train to cope with the stresses and more importantly have exhausted other setup options to achieve the same result.
Your touring car gearbox (transmission) is fitted with at least one differential and possibly one at each end. The purpose of the differential is to let the wheels turn at slightly different speeds. This is necessary to help the car turn corners. When you car turns a corner, the outside wheel has to travel further than the inside wheel - thus it needs to turn slightly faster to keep up. Differentials (or diffs) in model cars are typical of two kinds. Entry level cars (from companies such as Tamiya or Kyosho) often use ‘gear diffs’ whilst more competition oriented manufacturers use ‘ball diffs’. Both work in the same way, and largely achieve the same thing.
Ball Diffs are, however, slightly adjustable. By slightly increasing or decreasing the tension on the diff screw (see your instruction manual for details on how) you can make the diff ‘looser’ or ‘tighter’ A tighter diff is one that is hard to turn. Tighter diffs help your car to put down power coming out of corners and in a straight line, whilst looser diffs help your car to turn corners better. If you loosen the diff to far, it will allow the diff to slip. Make no mistake - this is a bad thing. Diff slip damages the components of the diff and is inconsistent. Your instruction manual will describe how to tell if your diff is slipping or not. I never recommend running any diff slip.
One Ways: Some touring cars will be fitted with a front “one-way”. This allows the front wheels to over-rotate and means that the car is essentially two-wheel drive until the rear tyres start to lose traction. The advantages of a one-way are slightly higher top speed, slightly better run-time and better turn-in. The disadvantages are that the car is unstable under brakes (as it is essentially a two-wheel drive at that point) and a bit less generally “stable”. In low grip conditions a one-way can be a liability.
Spools: A more recent innovation is the use of a “spool” or locked front diff. A spool allows for no differential action and means that both front wheels are equally driven 100% of the time. Spools provide benefits in acceleration through and out of a corner, and provide great stability under brakes. The disadvantages of a spool are in loss of initial turn-in and in the incredible stresses put on the drive train. Spool-equipped cars can easily break front drive-shafts, uni-joins and diff outdrives. If you want to run a spool you would be well advised to (a) upgrade your front driveshafts and outdrives to steel or titanium; and (b) be a consistently good driver who doesn’t hit anything.
Some manufacturers offer spools as a replacement for the front diff. For most however it’s a case of converting the diff. The conversion process is relatively simple. To try it, remove and disassemble your front diff. Remove front diff balls, and make two rings matched in size to the diff/drive rings from cardboard (business cards or header cards from spare parts are ideal). Reassemble the diff with theses card rings between the diff pulley/gear and the standard drive rings. Tighten the diff completely and then back out the adjusting screw by about ¾ of a turn. If you want to try this, you should be very careful, seek assistance from someone who has done this task before, and be warned that you very likely will break parts. Converting a gear diff is a different process.
Let me say this. For 90% of racers a spool is a mistake. For most of us the standard kit setup (with either front diff or front one-way) will be more than fine. I strongly encourage you not to go down the “spool” path until you have upgraded your drive-train to cope with the stresses and more importantly have exhausted other setup options to achieve the same result.
07-30-2007, 10:18 AM
#48
Ah so this coming saturday session will be what time?
07-30-2007, 07:34 PM
#49
07-30-2007, 07:41 PM
#50
everyone drives differently, just fixed the car up and run, then ask for advice if you feel your car is missing something.
most important is you might have to get a new set of tires to run at BK as the stock kit tires cannot hold.
stock ESC is good enough if you just want to run stock motor or sports tuned 27 turn motor anything lower than 27turn, you will need to change your ESC.
as for charger, a budget buy would be Tahmazo T15 AC/DC charger, it will not need a power supply and can charge NiCD, NiMH, Lipo and car battery! cost around $150 it can also discharge but at 1amp.
the rest of the hopups will come later as you get better in the game, suspension, anti roll bars etc etc
most important is you might have to get a new set of tires to run at BK as the stock kit tires cannot hold.
stock ESC is good enough if you just want to run stock motor or sports tuned 27 turn motor anything lower than 27turn, you will need to change your ESC.
as for charger, a budget buy would be Tahmazo T15 AC/DC charger, it will not need a power supply and can charge NiCD, NiMH, Lipo and car battery! cost around $150 it can also discharge but at 1amp.
the rest of the hopups will come later as you get better in the game, suspension, anti roll bars etc etc
07-30-2007, 08:33 PM
#51
thanks larlee for e advise
07-31-2007, 05:39 AM
#52
So what time would you guys be there on Saturday?
08-01-2007, 10:59 AM
#53
timing
hi nov, i will be there like quite early.before 11am i think.
08-01-2007, 06:11 PM
#54
on that day, wishing the open heart of the pro to share their knowledge and give some advices, tips on how to setup a car especially to the newbies.
the newbies questions will be explain further to the extents of their knowledge
ei newbies be gentle to the pro!
ei! pro your an idol!
the newbies questions will be explain further to the extents of their knowledge
ei newbies be gentle to the pro!
ei! pro your an idol!
08-02-2007, 01:36 AM
#56
A man's meat might be another's poison...
Test your car on the track and ask for advice would be better than copying the pro's setup...
Test your car on the track and ask for advice would be better than copying the pro's setup...
08-02-2007, 02:00 AM
#57
My setup TT01R
FRONT
TRF shocks (400tamiya oil) mounted on the outer hole of lower arm.
-0.5 degree camber.
Tamiya blue roll bar(lower)
6mm droop measured from the lowest point of the front arm.
Tamiya short blue springs
5mm ride height
5mm alu blue hub with 1mm blue spacer
Gear diff
UJ with 39mm alum dogbone
REAR
TRF shocks (400tamiya oil) mounted on the outer hole of lower arm.
-0.5 degree camber.
Tamiya red roll bar(lower)
5mm droop measured from the lowest point of the front arm.
Tamiya short red springs
5.5mm ride height
5mm alu blue hub with 1mm blue spacer
Gear diff
UJ with 39mm alum dogbone
Electronics
4200mah Intellect stick pack
Tamiya TEU101BK esc
Tamiya 540J motor
Sanwa 431RX
Futaba 9550
Sanwa M11
Shell
Tamiya NSX shell
Tyres
Tamiya Racing Slicks tyres(26mm)
Tamiya Ford Focus rims (26mm)
Tamiya Hard Foam
Others
Tamiya Carbon Upper deck
LRP asphalt compound
Front body mount
Tamiya TB EVO4 alum shaft
TRF shocks (400tamiya oil) mounted on the outer hole of lower arm.
-0.5 degree camber.
Tamiya blue roll bar(lower)
6mm droop measured from the lowest point of the front arm.
Tamiya short blue springs
5mm ride height
5mm alu blue hub with 1mm blue spacer
Gear diff
UJ with 39mm alum dogbone
REAR
TRF shocks (400tamiya oil) mounted on the outer hole of lower arm.
-0.5 degree camber.
Tamiya red roll bar(lower)
5mm droop measured from the lowest point of the front arm.
Tamiya short red springs
5.5mm ride height
5mm alu blue hub with 1mm blue spacer
Gear diff
UJ with 39mm alum dogbone
Electronics
4200mah Intellect stick pack
Tamiya TEU101BK esc
Tamiya 540J motor
Sanwa 431RX
Futaba 9550
Sanwa M11
Shell
Tamiya NSX shell
Tyres
Tamiya Racing Slicks tyres(26mm)
Tamiya Ford Focus rims (26mm)
Tamiya Hard Foam
Others
Tamiya Carbon Upper deck
LRP asphalt compound
Front body mount
Tamiya TB EVO4 alum shaft
08-02-2007, 04:46 AM
#58
nice set-up retsilla
hmmm!!! seems expensive car
hmmm!!! seems expensive car
08-02-2007, 05:02 AM
#59
08-02-2007, 09:45 AM
#60
Well i also will be there on saturday. Hope to see u guys with your car.
Anyway below is my Setup which i have used since Tamiya Asia Cup 2005.
Car: TT01
Servo : Sanwa VR
Controller : Sanwa M11
ESC : Tamiya BK 101
Shocks : Tamiya TRF Shocks
Front Spring : Tamiya Red
Front Oil : Tamiya 20 WT (Red)
Front Toe In : 0 Degree
Front Camber : 0.5 Degree
Front Ride Height : 5 MM
Rear Spring : Tamiya Yellow
Rear Oil : Tamiya 20 WT (Red)
Rear Toe In : 0 Degree
Rear Camber : 1 Degree
Rear Ride Height : 5.5 MM
Hop Up:
Tamiya Centre Alu Shaft
Tamiya U-Joint
Tamiya 4 MM Wheel Hex
Tamiya Camber Kit
Shell : Tamiya F360 / Tamiya NSX
Tyres : Tamiya 26 MM Slicks with Hard Insert
Anyway below is my Setup which i have used since Tamiya Asia Cup 2005.
Car: TT01
Servo : Sanwa VR
Controller : Sanwa M11
ESC : Tamiya BK 101
Shocks : Tamiya TRF Shocks
Front Spring : Tamiya Red
Front Oil : Tamiya 20 WT (Red)
Front Toe In : 0 Degree
Front Camber : 0.5 Degree
Front Ride Height : 5 MM
Rear Spring : Tamiya Yellow
Rear Oil : Tamiya 20 WT (Red)
Rear Toe In : 0 Degree
Rear Camber : 1 Degree
Rear Ride Height : 5.5 MM
Hop Up:
Tamiya Centre Alu Shaft
Tamiya U-Joint
Tamiya 4 MM Wheel Hex
Tamiya Camber Kit
Shell : Tamiya F360 / Tamiya NSX
Tyres : Tamiya 26 MM Slicks with Hard Insert