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Old 09-09-2008, 05:08 PM
  #7816  
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AKA IBeams best tire I have run so far.
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:03 PM
  #7817  
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I stripped down my shocks on my race roller today as I am wanting to change the piston and stipped the screw head trying to get the screw off I read in the manual that it has been loctited on I was just going to use a dremel to get it off but what is usually the best way to undo them? By putting pliers over the shaft with a rag?
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:43 PM
  #7818  
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You can try twisting the piston counterclockwise (like you would the screw) and that my loosen the screw. I've done that with other parts before. I also use a set of dikes to grab the threads at the bottom of the shock shaft, but a towel and pliers works too...
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Old 09-10-2008, 12:39 AM
  #7819  
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Has anyone tried the Dragon Racing CNC chassis for the 8ight? I'm in need of a new chassis and have seen these on ebay.

I'm sure the Losi Stock CNC and Tuned flex chassis will be better in quality. I mean, "you get what you pay for" My main question is for anyone who has tried or seen the Dragon Racing chassis:

Were there any major problems with it?
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Old 09-10-2008, 01:35 AM
  #7820  
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Originally Posted by phixd
Has anyone tried the Dragon Racing CNC chassis for the 8ight? I'm in need of a new chassis and have seen these on ebay.

I'm sure the Losi Stock CNC and Tuned flex chassis will be better in quality. I mean, "you get what you pay for" My main question is for anyone who has tried or seen the Dragon Racing chassis:

Were there any major problems with it?
I remember someone mentioning these some time ago and someone using the words dragon racing and taco and them being closely related
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:36 AM
  #7821  
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Originally Posted by phixd
Has anyone tried the Dragon Racing CNC chassis for the 8ight? I'm in need of a new chassis and have seen these on ebay.

I'm sure the Losi Stock CNC and Tuned flex chassis will be better in quality. I mean, "you get what you pay for" My main question is for anyone who has tried or seen the Dragon Racing chassis:

Were there any major problems with it?
If you can not afford the Flex get the stock replacement. I herd the same about the Dragon chassis bending. Plus I don’t think there is any significant weight savings.
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Old 09-10-2008, 12:17 PM
  #7822  
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Default locktited shock shafts

Originally Posted by Drift_Buggy
I stripped down my shocks on my race roller today as I am wanting to change the piston and stipped the screw head trying to get the screw off I read in the manual that it has been loctited on I was just going to use a dremel to get it off but what is usually the best way to undo them? By putting pliers over the shaft with a rag?
try using a lighter on the shock shaft where the internal threads are then try to turn the piston off or dremel a slot in the head of the screw then remove.
usually the heat will soften the locktite so you can remove it
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Old 09-11-2008, 12:17 AM
  #7823  
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Can someone explain camber links. Changing the camber links would change the camber aswell? Is it another way of just changing camber if you don't want t adjust the turnbuckle?
My front tires are chewing out in the inside (mainly the right side)
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:25 AM
  #7824  
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Any camber hole you change to will require a link adjustment. Its just to drastic of a change. "your tires will have way to much camber - or + " The lower the inner hole, the more you increase roll center. The more parallel the link and arms are with one another the car will have less roll. Try just running the stock setup with less camber. Keep in mind too, the further you mount them inboard the more camber you will have when the suspension is traveling. Sure you dont have a right hand turn you always get on the gas in?
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:44 AM
  #7825  
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The Roller front camber link is in #3 whereas the camber link is in #2 on the kit and most of the setups on Losi site are running it in the #2.
The Roller rear camber link is #1A, kit #4B and setups #4A
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Old 09-11-2008, 04:04 AM
  #7826  
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Camber links are an confusing adjustment.
Think of it like this:
The shorter the link the less side bite (traction sideways)
The longer the link the more side bite (traction sideways)

The more parallel the link to the lower arms the less roll the car will have.
The more angled down the inner is the more roll the car will have.

Any time you make a change in length you must reset your static camber.

A shorter link like in most of the setups will allow the car to rotate through the corner and not scrub speed, then when you exit the corner the car should square itself with the front wheels and accelerate.

The longer link like you are running car do two things:
1) it can keep the rear planted in the corner and cause it to push coming out
2) it can keep the car planted in the corner then when you get on the gas to exit it can make the car spin out or continue the corner.

I would start with the easy to drive setup and adjust from there. I think the rear is set at 4A and the front at 3
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Old 09-11-2008, 08:38 AM
  #7827  
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Is the losi 8ight worth holding on to or is it better to sell it to make way for the new buggy. I am concerned about parts being available and will it still be on the competetive edge with all the other new buggies coming out.
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Old 09-11-2008, 08:47 AM
  #7828  
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Parts for the current Eight won't be that hard to find. Losi has always supported non current models with plenty of parts.
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Old 09-11-2008, 08:52 AM
  #7829  
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Ok well thats good what about the new supposed 8ight 2.0 thats coming out. The new buggy is going to solve the issues that the current 8ight has and that is definitely going to be a huge advantage over the current 8ight
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:44 PM
  #7830  
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is it the standard in the 4 shoe clutch to run matching opposite shoes
for example: 2 carbon and 2 aluminum on opposite sides with springs to match
i mean, that's the stock setup.

Would it give a more gradual effect if lets say, you run 4 of the same shoes with 4 different springs: lightest to hardest? or is this a bad idea?

all input/criticism is appreciated.
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