Norse

iTrader: (43)

Just a heads up for those whom run 13.5 and are looking to drop some weight. BD8 plastic/nylon satellite and bevel gears, with aluminum diff pins weighs about 10 grams less per diff. Shims behind plastic/nylon satellite gears are not needed so your dropping a tad more.
I run these in my 13.5 YZ4 belt and they have worked excellent and have worked great in mod application being ran on very dry low bite dirt. Wouldn’t recommend using in mod application if running on any surface condition that is not low bite.

MrLean

iTrader: (17)

This is great, thanks!

MrLean

iTrader: (17)

I got one of the kits from the first A-main shipment, but just last night finally got to start the build. All I can say is WOW. This is my first Yok, and I've built AE, TLR, and Kyosho cars, but none of them come close to the build quality of this car. The others (with the exception of the new 22 4.0) all have a tendency to strip screws if you're not super careful, fitment issues, etc....nothing so far with the SF. So impressed. Hopefully the car drives on Astro as well as it builds on the bench!!!!

RC Junky

Any of you guys upgrading to the aluminum shock caps? Is there an advantage?

arydstedt

iTrader: (12)

My rear springs are rubbing on the turnbuckles with the stock setup: shocks towards the front. Is this normal? Am I supposed to flip the A arms?

archivist

Mine will be here on Saturday. I lost one during practice this week. I was on the fence, but the plastic ones were out of stock. Advantages? Screw hole is unlikely to strip. Not sure about weight yet. I would say less chance of breaking, but the force will either go to my shock tower, or my stock shaft... we'll see.

archivist

You'd have to show or describe the orientation if we're to suggest flipping the arm. If you've gone by the diagram, then you should not have to flip them (notice the upward flare at the end of the arms.) Whatever the case, springs rubbing anything other than shock body is probably not normal.




Hmm, just thought of something. Depending on where you put the ball link on the hub carrier, I suppose there could be some potential for rubbing (I'm not in front of my car right now.) If so, that explains why the shock can be mounted rearward. Hm. I'll have to test this when I get home.


BROOKLYYYN!!!

matterooth

Did you mount the spacers between the tower and alu mounts?

Pekr.da.skurl

iTrader: (12)

Try moving the turnbuckle on the hub back to the middle if its not already. Mine did the same that helped plus I added spacers next to the tower where the shocks mount to hold out the shock at the top more. I thought I saw Mayfields spaced out the same.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Aluminum caps tend to provide a tad more pack also a bit more weight up high to increase chassis roll. One would think suck a minimal amount of weight would not effect squat but the pros can tell the difference. I personally don’t feel a difference per an increase in roll but increased pack is noticeable with the aluminum caps.

noworries

iTrader: (42)

Ran my SF first time last night. Very durable car. I put kit diff in it for dirt. 5/5K. I felt "loose". Running high traction clay indoors. Thinking 10K front, maybe 7K rear.

THOUGHTS GUYS/INPUT?

Thanks,

Norse

iTrader: (43)

If you felt it was to loose for your liking you may want to change oil weight. I think the center gear diff would help a lot. SF Parts are available to build one using XB4 center gear diff spur gear. SWorks S104 evo center gear diff will drop right in to

arydstedt

iTrader: (12)

I did mount the spacers. Does anyone else have rubbing on their cars? Even with the Ball stud moved as far as possible the spring still rubs.

archivist

Both sides? Do you have a picture of the assembly/rubbing?

noworries

iTrader: (42)

Thanks NORSE....