Originally Posted by rustyus

So, parts are drying up fast. The good stuff is gone, unless you want to pay dearly to have an essential part shipped/imported from different parts of the world. I am currently trying to extend the life of parts that I have for my SC10s. Finally got around to replacing a few dogbone pins on my CVA/CVDs.

I was going to go with a RC specific tool for removing 2.5mm pins, but was told, by the company, there was a greater risk of breaking the tool while trying to use it on T4/B4/SC10 3/32 (2.38mm) pins. I opted to use a lower cost motorcycle chain breaker for my first go around at removing pin. Worked real well. After receiving the chain breaker in the mail, and setting it up,I was able to press a worn out pin through the ball of the dogbone within 30 seconds.

Putting new pin in...I took a different approach. I placed the dogbone on top of 5/32 (or 4mm) socket, and used a hammer to tap new pin in.

Originally Posted by Rmpsocal

Nice! Would you mind sharing what specific tool that is?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by rustyus

I just had to try a $16 no-name chain tool before I go out and spent $80 on a RC specific pin removal tool and extra push pins. https://www.ebay.com/itm/13-pc-Bike-...53.m2749.l2649

LOL. After receiving the chain breaker tool, and no instructions on how to use it, I started searching for the tool and came up with this article showing a similar tool...AUTOMODELISME - PetitRC.com - Replace CVD Pins

Originally Posted by imrob

my guess is one for a dirt bike chain. I have tried a bicycle one just did not cut it a long time ago. Than I just hit an impulsive buy for the Hudy but have only used it for 1/8 scale.

Originally Posted by WhiteLX

Just picked up an SC10.3 a few weeks ago. Rebuilt it and fixed and fixed a few things, such as mismatched shocks, clearanced the steering bar, replaced some arms, resealed and added 7000 wt diff fluid, and added an RPM front bumper/skid plate. The one thing I am hot happy with is the Y-shaped battery hold down and the plastic wingnuts. The wingnuts are a bit of a pain to deal with and get the hold down off. Are there any other options for the battery hold down?

Also, is anyone using shorty packs in these? I have a number of shorty packs, but only one full size pack. Any other suggested upgrades for racing? I'll be racing on an outside, loose, dirt track.

Originally Posted by MD

There's a graphite version of the battery bar. I don't know the part number. Because it's graphite you have to be careful depending on the type of battery that your battery wires to don't touch. I have not run a shorty pack, But it might work well if you move it to the rear of the battery tray. I guess that would be a case where you need less weight, less steering and more rear grip. Try it and see what happens.

Originally Posted by tomkatn

The graphite strap (9851) is actually designed to use with the same 9879 Thumb Knobs as is currently on the OP's 10.3, so won't really alleviate his dissatisfaction much ... a couple options may be to use the 1787 Thumb Screws used on the B4's, where they can just be 'spun' on, making it a bit easier ... or a couple 4/40 Socket Head Cap Screws WITH HOLES, and use a body clip to hold the strap down ... or, you could even cut a couple slots in the sides of the battery tray, and use the 71050 velcro straps like used on the ProSC10, DR10 and T-Rat ...

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/...h/?query=91458

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/...h/?query=71050

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/...ch/?query=6929

Originally Posted by MD

Yes, the graphite battery is designed for the thumb screws. I don't mind those because your battery will never come loose. But, the fig disadvantage is for me was losing one of the thumb screws. The third item on your list the 4-40 screws with the holes for a body clip are a good alternative if you can find them. They take a very thin body clip.i