hawker

Hey everyone,

I went looking for a TA04 TRF setting sheet and the only one i could find was an old ta04 pro sheet, so i set out to make my own

well here it is, i don't know how accurate it is, photoshopped it from the EVO 3 sheet, just put in news holes and stuff, so if anything is missing or needs to be changed, let me know.

Matt

LOonY

I have a TAO4SS
My current settings are:
Spur: 83
Pinion: 20
Motor: Trinity D5 9Turn Double

What do you guys think of this setting?
Should I change the pitches of my gears from 32 to 64?

At times when I run my car and shoot it at full blast, I hear a tapping noise or a skipping noise. Could it be because of my gears? - Just to note, my gears just has enough contact with each other. There is alot of space inbetween the teeths. I've tried pushing the motor as far back as it can.

Please leave your inputs.

My friend who has a TT-01 with a stock SPur, and a 21 for a pinion. He runs a 10T single Reedy Kryptonite. He is just as fast with me when we shoot it down a straight line. How is this possible?

hawker

loony

with your gear ratio, get a gear ratio that will have a closer teeth mesh, if its veru loose you'll strip the spur gear, it needs to have some room, but not to much.

With your friends TT01, one reason is tha the TT01 is a shaft driven car, i'll probably gfet in troublefor this lol, but in my experience, (i race the TA04 TRF and the TB EVO 3) the shaft driven cars have more pickup, as in the accelerate a little harder, other that that it just comes down to gear ratios.

Hope that helps.

Matt

psycho

There's a whole bunch of reasons why the two cars are the same speed with different motors. First off, your car probably has 0.6 metric pitch gears, not 32 pitch. I would definitely take hawker's advice and switch to a larger spurgear. You're running 9.67:1 gear ratio. That is probably a little high for that motor unless you're on a super tight technical track. If you ran a 21T pinion, you'll be down to 9.2:1 and the car will be faster on the straightaway, if it's long enough. One key piece of information that you omitted was the amount of timing you are running on the motor. If you're running 12 degrees of timing and your buddy is running 36 degrees of timing, his motor will be faster than yours. Of course, he's going to be tearing up his comm a lot more than you. If I were you, I would get the TA04 0.4 pitch spurgear set. It should run you around $8 and includes 112, 120 and 128 tooth spurs. I would run the 128 with a mod motor. To achieve a similar gear ratio that you are running now, you will need to use the 128T spur and a 31T pinion and you'll be at 9.62:1. 32T will get you to 9.32:1. BTW, you calculate the final gear ratio by dividing the spur by the pinion and multiplying that by the internal transmission ratio. For example, on the TA04, the internal ratio is 2.33, so 128/32=4 4*2.33=9.32 The Tamiya pinions come in a pack of two, so you'll want to get the 31, 32 pinion set.

Don't be tempted to gear to the moon with mod motors. You can easily cook the motor since it's designed to run at high rpms. I would not run a 9 or 10 turn motor less than 9:1 in a touring car. I hope that helps.

LOonY

Thanks guys, you have been alot of help!

but i do have one more question though, how do i mess with my timming?

hawker

ah well
timing, i'm not to good with timing, haven't done a lot of playing with it since I race stock only, but to adjust it you pull off or loosen off the end bell and turn clockwise or counterclockwise depending on what you want to do. I'll leave it to someone else to calrify it lol

matt

psycho

hawker has the method of adjustment right. Depending on the motor, you may have a gradient on the can and a line on the endbell or a line on the can and a series of notches on the endbell. Most motors have the later marking. The middle notch on the endbell is zero degrees timing and may have a slightly different shaped notch. That's what you use when you're breaking in brushes or if you want to sandbag your speed during practice. Each notch on the endbell is 12 degrees of timing. You always rotate the endbell counterclockwise to add positive timing. Never add negative timing. If, for some reason, you are running your motor in reverse polarity, you would do the opposite of this. More timing equals more speed and much more comm wear. I would not go beyond 36 degrees of timing or performance will suffer. It's actually around 40 degrees, but you don't have a very accurate gradient. If the can has degree markings on it, it should be pretty self explanitory. Just make sure to add positive timing only. See, if you raced stock, you wouldn't have to worry about all this!

KREATOR1

iTrader: (8)

Hi 04 drivers

Whats the best setting for the ta04 pro setting for a technical track?

lem2

iTrader: (6)

#use diffs front and rear
#use 4degree c hubs
#no sway bars
#use maximum toe in on the rear (it just turns beter if toe is at 3)
#make the rear turnbuckles almost perpendicular to the ground when the car sits and make it the longest possible

#Stand up the front shocks as much as you can, if you can use the body mount holes in the fornt for the shocks-DO IT use red-yelly springs
#angle the rear shocks (use white springs)

do this it works great for me!!!

KREATOR1

iTrader: (8)

Thanks Lem

will try out your settings this weekend and will tell you the results.

by the way , have 1 question

#no sway bars <---- you mean front and rear?

lem2

iTrader: (6)

Your welcome!!!
and also! if its technical, you may want to double your upper deck!!! just cutthe front "x" part on the topmost deck so it will not get hit by the belt!! Makes the car really responsive!

and the setup o mentioned there might be unconventional but it works!!!

to add, zero camber in front and rear.

CA$H's son

iTrader: (5)

hey boys TCS is commin up soon and i need me a setup i run tamiya cars once a year this year im gonna borra a buddies 04-s its very clean spins freee and everything im thinking about a GT1 or GT2 entry this year wuts a setup such as springs oils and such for this car and of courese on rubber A's and aspahlt any input would be grealty appricated

marvi

iTrader: (82)

lem2: have you run your xxx-s & TA04 back to back? which do you prefer to use for stock? for mod? which is easier to tune and drive? i recently bought a used TA04R and i cant wait to try this in the fort track im still happy with my xxx-s and i was really planning to get a shaft car, like you suggested to me, but i couldnt pass up on the deal for the 04. thanks and hope to see you in our local tracks

414M & TA04 owners: are there major differences in the handling and speed of these 2 cars? they look almost the same (even share some parts) and i was wondering if i can use the same gearing combinations, suspension setup (mainly shock oil, springs, piston) and camber/toe settings from a 414. i previously owned a 414M but i sold it i still remember my old setup and i was wondering if i can use this as a baseline for my TA04R. thanks for any info

lem2

iTrader: (6)

have not run my xxx-S, will do so in a few days. My o4-r is like a dream to drive!, one of our fastest guys(ronchie), drove it in Mod, and he said, this is a great car!! Though it was a Losi XXX-s because it behaved that way, and boy he was surprized it was my 04_r Pia tuned!

will give my xxx-S a few races, if I'm nothappy then back to 04R!

they said 04R is better to tune than the 414----

Lem

marvi

iTrader: (82)

lem: thanks see you at the tracks. unfortunately for me, seems ill have to wait 2 weeks before i can run my 04 in fort because im away for the next two weekends