New TEAM WAVE racing brushless system
#1636
just want to know how to adjust brake strength and lipo cut off for 1 cell 3.7v on 2.1c
#1637
Brake strength would have to be adjusted on the Tx as there is no option for it on 2.1 or for 1S lipo cut off for that matter. I haven't raced any of the newer firmwares in my 1/12th yet but the older generation of firmware's used to use about 3000mah from a 5000mah pack over an 8min run on 10.5t with lots of throttle jamming for the lack of boost per say back then
#1638
has anyone use rb50 for 1s battery on 1/10 pan cars?
whats the strongest turbo gain on 2.1c? 3 or 9?
whats the strongest turbo gain on 2.1c? 3 or 9?
#1639
For 1S LiPo, you need to remove the RED wire on the ESC-Rx cable and use receiver battery.
Turbo will draw large amount of current and please start at a lower value like 3. If your battery is not good, voltage will drop under strong turbo and make the car run slower than expected.
No matter 1s or 2s, if your car getting slower on the straight after increase the turbo value, that means your battery is not good enough and provide enough juice for the motor. You need to lower the turbo value and adjust the gear ratio in that case.
Turbo will draw large amount of current and please start at a lower value like 3. If your battery is not good, voltage will drop under strong turbo and make the car run slower than expected.
No matter 1s or 2s, if your car getting slower on the straight after increase the turbo value, that means your battery is not good enough and provide enough juice for the motor. You need to lower the turbo value and adjust the gear ratio in that case.
#1640
Max, do you have any recommended base settings for the new firmware or are the 2.02g settings still valid?
#1642
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
My son has been running his RB50 using Ver 2.02 in in 17.5 class for the last 3 months now using a LRP X11 motor.
Playing with the turbo, and timing settings and we had got to the point now where his car is as quick as the top runners, and after a 5-6 min time on the track, the motor would measure 70 degrees C.
Everything was just great.
So last week we took his RB50 and upgraded to the latest software, dropped a pinion size and hit the track.
Using the default settings, the car seemed fine until after only 3 laps the RB50 went pufff.
There was no forward drive.... and every time you touched the brakes, a small puff of smoke came out of the ESC.
When we got back home, I took my multimeter and took a few measurements.
What I found was a dead short between the +ve output connector and connector "C", i.e between red wire and orange wire.
There is no chance of a short between the wires/connectors themselves where they get soldered onto the ESC, as I use heat shrink over the connector posts.
Edit... Just discovered that the LiPo which was in the car at the time this happened is also buggered now, it has one dead cell.
Can someone from Team Wave please explain to me what might have gone wrong, I don't want to blow my other RB50.........
Which I run in my 13.5 car, and that has Ver 2.02 on.
Car is running great and I won't be upgrading that, in fear of blowing another one.
One a seperate topic...
I am told....The local distributor of TeamWave (in South Africa) will replace my blown ESC but will charge me R1000-00, which is equivelant to $150 .
For that price I can buy a second hand Speed Passion Ver2 GT ESC...
Playing with the turbo, and timing settings and we had got to the point now where his car is as quick as the top runners, and after a 5-6 min time on the track, the motor would measure 70 degrees C.
Everything was just great.
So last week we took his RB50 and upgraded to the latest software, dropped a pinion size and hit the track.
Using the default settings, the car seemed fine until after only 3 laps the RB50 went pufff.
There was no forward drive.... and every time you touched the brakes, a small puff of smoke came out of the ESC.
When we got back home, I took my multimeter and took a few measurements.
What I found was a dead short between the +ve output connector and connector "C", i.e between red wire and orange wire.
There is no chance of a short between the wires/connectors themselves where they get soldered onto the ESC, as I use heat shrink over the connector posts.
Edit... Just discovered that the LiPo which was in the car at the time this happened is also buggered now, it has one dead cell.
Can someone from Team Wave please explain to me what might have gone wrong, I don't want to blow my other RB50.........
Which I run in my 13.5 car, and that has Ver 2.02 on.
Car is running great and I won't be upgrading that, in fear of blowing another one.
One a seperate topic...
I am told....The local distributor of TeamWave (in South Africa) will replace my blown ESC but will charge me R1000-00, which is equivelant to $150 .
For that price I can buy a second hand Speed Passion Ver2 GT ESC...
#1643
1-8
2-5
3-4
4-2
5-1
6-4
7-4
8-4
9-1
I am hooked up to a novak ballistic 13.5 with +5 on the timing end bell ,gear ratio 5.427 and motor temp has not been over 120degF
It is verry quick and is as quick as anything out there it just my driving that lets me down.
I would like a bit more out of the corners so i tried a smaller pinion but it lost all of its shine so i went back .
Im going to try and ajust setting 2 step by step at my next meeting to see if this helps
Good luck guys
Last edited by ATLASCOPCO; 11-01-2010 at 02:52 PM.
#1644
My touring car is definately the quickest it has ever run. Thoroughly looking forward to seing how it compares to the GM and Tekin 1st hand at a race meeting at the weekend.
After some basic testing (speed gun, temp esc/motor and lipo) on a good grippy strip of asphalt. I have decided to run the following settings for a large indoor Prima GT carpet track (used for nationals):
1-8
2-5
3-3
4-3
5-1
6-3
7-3 (I don't want to melt my beautiful RB-50)
8-3 (I have nice new expensive high discharge lipo's)
9-1
and an FDR of 7.29
I will let you how how it goes...
Cheers,
IainC
Last edited by IainC; 11-03-2010 at 09:06 AM.
#1645
Thanks Team Wave...!
My touring car is definately the quickest it has ever run. Thoroughly looking forward to seing how it compares to the GM and Tekin 1st hand at a race meeting at the weekend.
After some basic testing (speed gun, temp esc/motor and lipo) on a good grippy strip of asphalt. I have decided to run the following settings for a large indoor Prima GT carpet track (used for nationals):
1-8
2-5
3-3
4-3
5-1
6-3
7-3 (I don't want to melt my beautiful RB-50)
8-3 (I have nice new expensive high discharge lipo's)
9-1
and an FDR of 7.29
I will let you how how it goes...
Cheers,
IainC
My touring car is definately the quickest it has ever run. Thoroughly looking forward to seing how it compares to the GM and Tekin 1st hand at a race meeting at the weekend.
After some basic testing (speed gun, temp esc/motor and lipo) on a good grippy strip of asphalt. I have decided to run the following settings for a large indoor Prima GT carpet track (used for nationals):
1-8
2-5
3-3
4-3
5-1
6-3
7-3 (I don't want to melt my beautiful RB-50)
8-3 (I have nice new expensive high discharge lipo's)
9-1
and an FDR of 7.29
I will let you how how it goes...
Cheers,
IainC
Cheers
#1646
#1647
My son has been running his RB50 using Ver 2.02 in in 17.5 class for the last 3 months now using a LRP X11 motor.
Playing with the turbo, and timing settings and we had got to the point now where his car is as quick as the top runners, and after a 5-6 min time on the track, the motor would measure 70 degrees C.
Everything was just great.
So last week we took his RB50 and upgraded to the latest software, dropped a pinion size and hit the track.
Using the default settings, the car seemed fine until after only 3 laps the RB50 went pufff.
There was no forward drive.... and every time you touched the brakes, a small puff of smoke came out of the ESC.
When we got back home, I took my multimeter and took a few measurements.
What I found was a dead short between the +ve output connector and connector "C", i.e between red wire and orange wire.
There is no chance of a short between the wires/connectors themselves where they get soldered onto the ESC, as I use heat shrink over the connector posts.
Edit... Just discovered that the LiPo which was in the car at the time this happened is also buggered now, it has one dead cell.
Can someone from Team Wave please explain to me what might have gone wrong, I don't want to blow my other RB50.........
Which I run in my 13.5 car, and that has Ver 2.02 on.
Car is running great and I won't be upgrading that, in fear of blowing another one.
One a seperate topic...
I am told....The local distributor of TeamWave (in South Africa) will replace my blown ESC but will charge me R1000-00, which is equivelant to $150 .
For that price I can buy a second hand Speed Passion Ver2 GT ESC...
Playing with the turbo, and timing settings and we had got to the point now where his car is as quick as the top runners, and after a 5-6 min time on the track, the motor would measure 70 degrees C.
Everything was just great.
So last week we took his RB50 and upgraded to the latest software, dropped a pinion size and hit the track.
Using the default settings, the car seemed fine until after only 3 laps the RB50 went pufff.
There was no forward drive.... and every time you touched the brakes, a small puff of smoke came out of the ESC.
When we got back home, I took my multimeter and took a few measurements.
What I found was a dead short between the +ve output connector and connector "C", i.e between red wire and orange wire.
There is no chance of a short between the wires/connectors themselves where they get soldered onto the ESC, as I use heat shrink over the connector posts.
Edit... Just discovered that the LiPo which was in the car at the time this happened is also buggered now, it has one dead cell.
Can someone from Team Wave please explain to me what might have gone wrong, I don't want to blow my other RB50.........
Which I run in my 13.5 car, and that has Ver 2.02 on.
Car is running great and I won't be upgrading that, in fear of blowing another one.
One a seperate topic...
I am told....The local distributor of TeamWave (in South Africa) will replace my blown ESC but will charge me R1000-00, which is equivelant to $150 .
For that price I can buy a second hand Speed Passion Ver2 GT ESC...
#1648
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Thx for the info...
How did you know the motor was also fried?
I suspect mine is also buggered.
I am guessing the only way to test is to put it on my other RB50, but I don't want to run the risk of blowing that as well.
How did you go about sorting out your faulty ESC?
Did u send it to TeamWave for repair?
How did you know the motor was also fried?
I suspect mine is also buggered.
I am guessing the only way to test is to put it on my other RB50, but I don't want to run the risk of blowing that as well.
How did you go about sorting out your faulty ESC?
Did u send it to TeamWave for repair?
#1649
Tech Rookie
Hi, I ran my RBS ESC with Team wave 13.5T motor and need some setting and gearing advise.
My ESC settings are
1,6
2,5
3,4
4,6
5,6
6,5
7,4
8,4
9,1
FDR was 6.8 car felt too smooth and slow down the straight and temps were 60 degrees C
FDR was 6.21 car felt better but temps went 70 degrees C plus
So, I am trying to get some more speed, but also need to get temps down.
Thanks
My ESC settings are
1,6
2,5
3,4
4,6
5,6
6,5
7,4
8,4
9,1
FDR was 6.8 car felt too smooth and slow down the straight and temps were 60 degrees C
FDR was 6.21 car felt better but temps went 70 degrees C plus
So, I am trying to get some more speed, but also need to get temps down.
Thanks
#1650
Hi, I ran my RBS ESC with Team wave 13.5T motor and need some setting and gearing advise.
My ESC settings are
1,6
2,5
3,4
4,6
5,6
6,5
7,4
8,4
9,1
FDR was 6.8 car felt too smooth and slow down the straight and temps were 60 degrees C
FDR was 6.21 car felt better but temps went 70 degrees C plus
So, I am trying to get some more speed, but also need to get temps down.
Thanks
My ESC settings are
1,6
2,5
3,4
4,6
5,6
6,5
7,4
8,4
9,1
FDR was 6.8 car felt too smooth and slow down the straight and temps were 60 degrees C
FDR was 6.21 car felt better but temps went 70 degrees C plus
So, I am trying to get some more speed, but also need to get temps down.
Thanks
1-8
2-5
3-3
4-3
I know i am using a different motor but im sure that i would be good enough.
You only have a small window to find the sweet spot and can take some finding
HTH
Simon