Schumacher Corner
01-26-2005, 08:33 AM
#8808
Hi Adrian. whats up dog!
01-26-2005, 06:10 PM
#8812
how can I id the type of caster yoke when there were thrown in the same box with the others?
01-26-2005, 07:32 PM
#8815
Tech Adept
rcshark
I had the same problem. I ended up using my car and an integy setup station and figuring out which one was which. I then marked them as Jon Kerr said.
Hopefully someone at Schumacher will mold in the number in a future release of the part.
I had the same problem. I ended up using my car and an integy setup station and figuring out which one was which. I then marked them as Jon Kerr said.
Hopefully someone at Schumacher will mold in the number in a future release of the part.
01-26-2005, 07:58 PM
#8816
thanks guys i used a hex driver and sliped them on two at a time and mached them up and then put what i thought would the stock ones and what ever I have it works now! I got the car already put together and it had two diffrent ones on it. Man this car rocks its realy planted! I can see why the spool is so talked about!
today I put a mod 10/t in it and it felt as good as my axis did with a stock motor in it!!!!
I missed out on the 19t serise but hopfuly I will win the mod. series next month.
today I put a mod 10/t in it and it felt as good as my axis did with a stock motor in it!!!!
I missed out on the 19t serise but hopfuly I will win the mod. series next month.
01-27-2005, 06:25 AM
#8817
Shock rebound
Hey Guys,
After being spoiled with the Tamiya shocks and how easy they are to put together I kinda realized that i've been building my shocks wrong all this time. My understand or misunderstand was that you shoud fill the schock with as much oil so that when the piston is compressed (without the spring) that it would rebound all the way out which made my orignal configurations really really really hard. I mean to the point were i had to realy try to compress the damn thing just so it comes all the way out when I let it go. Eitehr way, what is the proper proceedure for building the schu shocks? Do you guys have a trick that i can use to get them just right? I surely wish schu would come out with a new blader type shock like the Tamiya's :-(
R.
After being spoiled with the Tamiya shocks and how easy they are to put together I kinda realized that i've been building my shocks wrong all this time. My understand or misunderstand was that you shoud fill the schock with as much oil so that when the piston is compressed (without the spring) that it would rebound all the way out which made my orignal configurations really really really hard. I mean to the point were i had to realy try to compress the damn thing just so it comes all the way out when I let it go. Eitehr way, what is the proper proceedure for building the schu shocks? Do you guys have a trick that i can use to get them just right? I surely wish schu would come out with a new blader type shock like the Tamiya's :-(
R.
01-27-2005, 07:28 AM
#8818
Building Schu Shocks:
1. I fill up my schu shocks all the way to the top of the body with oil.
2. Put a couple of drops of oil on top of the cartridge and pull the piston back into that oil puddle. This keeps air from getting trapped behind the piston.
3. Keep the piston pulled against the cartridge and out it into the shock body. Oil will be pushed out as you start to screw it in.
4. When the cartridge is in so that the seal o ring is 0.5mm from the body push the shock shaft all the way in. More oil will flow past the threads and out of the shock.
5. While keeping the piston pushed all the way in finish tightening the shock cartridge.
6. Check your shock rebound. They should all rebound ~5mm....if you are lucky...lol!
7. To equalize the shocks pick the one with the most rebound and side load the shock shaft and push it in all the way. You can use moderate force. You are trying to release tension from one side of the seal o-rings to allow a small drop of oil to burp past them. This reduces the internal oil volume and will reduce the rebound.
8. Burp all of you shock using this method until they all match the shock with the least rebound.
I do not like building shocks with lots of rebound. If one shock leaks a tiny bit of oil it will lose some rebound and you car will feel tweaked due to the mismatch. This is a real pain to spot on a race day. Like I said if you have ~5mm or less of rebound this will not be a problem.
1. I fill up my schu shocks all the way to the top of the body with oil.
2. Put a couple of drops of oil on top of the cartridge and pull the piston back into that oil puddle. This keeps air from getting trapped behind the piston.
3. Keep the piston pulled against the cartridge and out it into the shock body. Oil will be pushed out as you start to screw it in.
4. When the cartridge is in so that the seal o ring is 0.5mm from the body push the shock shaft all the way in. More oil will flow past the threads and out of the shock.
5. While keeping the piston pushed all the way in finish tightening the shock cartridge.
6. Check your shock rebound. They should all rebound ~5mm....if you are lucky...lol!
7. To equalize the shocks pick the one with the most rebound and side load the shock shaft and push it in all the way. You can use moderate force. You are trying to release tension from one side of the seal o-rings to allow a small drop of oil to burp past them. This reduces the internal oil volume and will reduce the rebound.
8. Burp all of you shock using this method until they all match the shock with the least rebound.
I do not like building shocks with lots of rebound. If one shock leaks a tiny bit of oil it will lose some rebound and you car will feel tweaked due to the mismatch. This is a real pain to spot on a race day. Like I said if you have ~5mm or less of rebound this will not be a problem.
01-27-2005, 11:33 AM
#8819
Ahh!,
Good techniques.
Thanks.
Oh. PS. Before i forget. I have the alloy steel housings and it seems that is much more difficult to get the larger o-ring to snap into the housing than the plastic ones. Is it ok to just force it in or do i not need to worry about it since the piece with the sponges will rest on top of it?
R.
Good techniques.
Thanks.
Oh. PS. Before i forget. I have the alloy steel housings and it seems that is much more difficult to get the larger o-ring to snap into the housing than the plastic ones. Is it ok to just force it in or do i not need to worry about it since the piece with the sponges will rest on top of it?
R.
