Tamiya mini cooper
Not trying to beat a dead horse,
...But, I got really excited about this until I read the description:
No1. and No.2 phillip head screwdrivers are made from Nickel chrome molybdenum steel
1.5, 2, 2.5 Hex wrenches are made from Nickel chrome molybdenum steel
Size 5 minus (-) screwdriver
Size 5.5 & 7 box driver
Comes with a convenient driver stand
-specifically the info about the screwdrivers being "Philip's". Unless the description is incorrect?
...Tamiya in my opinion ought to include a proper JIS screwdriver w/ each kit that requires it.
...But, I got really excited about this until I read the description:
No1. and No.2 phillip head screwdrivers are made from Nickel chrome molybdenum steel
1.5, 2, 2.5 Hex wrenches are made from Nickel chrome molybdenum steel
Size 5 minus (-) screwdriver
Size 5.5 & 7 box driver
Comes with a convenient driver stand
-specifically the info about the screwdrivers being "Philip's". Unless the description is incorrect?
...Tamiya in my opinion ought to include a proper JIS screwdriver w/ each kit that requires it.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
They seem to have started.. The TB04 Pro II comes with hex, so hopefully it spreads to other kits. They should also do what HPI does, include machine hex and self threading / tapping hex for plastic
Good starter kit, just don't expect the small hex to be perfect. I have used and abuse this set of tools. Excellent value. Just the 1.5mm hex twists a bit. Plus I use the grey stand when doing my shocks!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
Do any of you trim the axles on your mini. I keep breaking the front right steering knuckle. While it's clear that the plastic is brittle, I am pretty sure the thread that is sticking out past the wheel nut is not helping either.
In response to your trimming of the wheel axles I do not as I sometimes use spacers to make the front end wider, which would not be possible if you cut them. I use the standard Tamiya universals up front and the hardened rear axles. I also use spacers on the rear for the same reason, although sometimes I actually fit 4mm hexs for more rear end grip.
I also use Tamiya alloy front knuckles. The only part I have broken up front is the c hub which I have done on both sides when I have hit something at the wrong angle or had a hit at full noise.
Hope that helps,
Calvin
I also use Tamiya alloy front knuckles. The only part I have broken up front is the c hub which I have done on both sides when I have hit something at the wrong angle or had a hit at full noise.
Hope that helps,
Calvin
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Mike
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
Ram, when our lead driver first started running the m05 he was breaking the front knuckles a lot until we upgraded to the aluminum knuckles and this solved the problem, I was thinking that trimming them would solve the problem, but it just seems that at that point on the chassis that the stress is extreme when contact is made in the front wheel area
Mike
Mike
@ KA2AEV. I generally don't like to run aluminium in the form of suspension arms, knuckles, C hubs or up rights, because it bends in crashes and its hard to tell that its bent. That is unless I have to, like on the rear, there are no 1º, 2º, 2.5º rear hubs in plastic.
The C hubs and knuckles seem to be made out of pure abs brittle plastic, where as other suspension parts seem to have flex put into the compound mix. I had hoped that with the Ver II they would update these parts, but it appears just the arms have been updated. So I may have to break down and pick up the front knuckles in aluminium. I will however try trimming the front axles first since they're fairly inexpensive.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Ram, the way he beats on the cars inthe quals and the mains I would have thought the same about the
Aluminum knuckles, but honestly ever since I installed them in the M05 that Golddust drives, we haven't any issues with parts bending or breaking up front. Keep us informed of your progress
Mike
Aluminum knuckles, but honestly ever since I installed them in the M05 that Golddust drives, we haven't any issues with parts bending or breaking up front. Keep us informed of your progress
Mike
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
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@ Caltek1: I run the M06 with the Alfa GTA body and if I space out the front axle, it will rub on the body. Rears I have not had any issues with breakage, probably because I'm running the 1º aluminium hubs.
@ KA2AEV. I generally don't like to run aluminium in the form of suspension arms, knuckles, C hubs or up rights, because it bends in crashes and its hard to tell that its bent. That is unless I have to, like on the rear, there are no 1º, 2º, 2.5º rear hubs in plastic.
The C hubs and knuckles seem to be made out of pure abs brittle plastic, where as other suspension parts seem to have flex put into the compound mix. I had hoped that with the Ver II they would update these parts, but it appears just the arms have been updated. So I may have to break down and pick up the front knuckles in aluminium. I will however try trimming the front axles first since they're fairly inexpensive.
@ KA2AEV. I generally don't like to run aluminium in the form of suspension arms, knuckles, C hubs or up rights, because it bends in crashes and its hard to tell that its bent. That is unless I have to, like on the rear, there are no 1º, 2º, 2.5º rear hubs in plastic.
The C hubs and knuckles seem to be made out of pure abs brittle plastic, where as other suspension parts seem to have flex put into the compound mix. I had hoped that with the Ver II they would update these parts, but it appears just the arms have been updated. So I may have to break down and pick up the front knuckles in aluminium. I will however try trimming the front axles first since they're fairly inexpensive.
I ran my car with plastic knuckles for a few years and didn't have a single issue. Then I started racing at a new track with different markers and I could barely finish a race without a knuckle splitting at the kingpin (oddly enough I would only lose a couple of tenths per lap!). Since changing to tamiya alloy I haven't damaged a thing.
Don't hesitate over the aluminium knuckles. They are plenty strong enough, and there is enough flex in the rest of the car to stop them bending.
I ran my car with plastic knuckles for a few years and didn't have a single issue. Then I started racing at a new track with different markers and I could barely finish a race without a knuckle splitting at the kingpin (oddly enough I would only lose a couple of tenths per lap!). Since changing to tamiya alloy I haven't damaged a thing.
I ran my car with plastic knuckles for a few years and didn't have a single issue. Then I started racing at a new track with different markers and I could barely finish a race without a knuckle splitting at the kingpin (oddly enough I would only lose a couple of tenths per lap!). Since changing to tamiya alloy I haven't damaged a thing.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
Tony G, you're making me sad. I started driving RC 6 years ago, with minis from the very beginning. That site taught me everything, even if I ignored a large portion and wasted hundreds of dollars on useless bling. You were almost never wrong. I say almost because the M04 was a lovely car - only a teensy bit evil.
You've done a great service for all of us and kept the laughter, too. We just have to figure out where to point the next smart ass that comes along asking questions.
Thanks!
You've done a great service for all of us and kept the laughter, too. We just have to figure out where to point the next smart ass that comes along asking questions.
Thanks!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
The touring car class? lol I agree, thanks Tony and all at Rc-Mini, you guys ensured mini stayed a competitive yet still FUN class for alot of us.