Reducing Tire Wear
02-07-2008, 08:02 AM
#17
02-07-2008, 10:12 AM
#18
Remeber traction is established thru chassis roll....if your lacking traction on one end of the car..then you should create more roll thru softer shock oils,springs or roll centers...you should be able to run 30000 with a soft chassis setup..also toe-in in the rear helps alot when it comes to you rear end being loose...I normally run my RRR with a stiffer rear then front to gain steering response...I would try running 500 oil 30000 diff stock springs try lowering roll center in the rear...also a lower rear roll center will help with tire wear..hope this helps
Robert Maestrey
Robert Maestrey
02-07-2008, 10:48 AM
#19
Another thing you can do to reduce tire wear & fuel consumption is swap out the solid front for a 1-way. I know many will say the locked front is the way to go for low grip conditions but I have found that when the grip goes low the 1-way is usually faster.
The solid front although great in some conditions does have some trade offs. With the front wheels locked left to right your car will have less off power turn in and require stronger braking on entry but with extra low bite you may find the surface to simply not provide enough mechanical grip to be able to make make the car fast with minimal wheel spin under braking and hard acceleration. Another consideration with the locked front end is that you are always scrubbing one front wheel in the turn, since the your outside wheel cant rotate any faster than the inside you are always effective pushing a wheel through the turn griding away additional foam.
In low grip a 1-way can be benificial because you simple don't need to use as much throttle or brake power to get around the track quickly and this reduction of input can greatly reduce tire wear and improve fuel millage.
With your tires also make sure your rears are harder than your fronts, going too soft in the rear can cause your foams to glaze over and slip even more.
My local tracks is setup on a sealed parking lot with very little sugar water spray and maybe 50F on a good day when our season starts. In this condition I generally run 40R w/ a 38F tire, softer foams tend to gum up and loose grip. For tire brands I have had good success with Jaco, GQ, & GRP with mino setup changes between them.
To go fast in low bite set you car up for soft & smooth with minimal trigger input and you will be faster with less wear & better fuel millage.
Mark
The solid front although great in some conditions does have some trade offs. With the front wheels locked left to right your car will have less off power turn in and require stronger braking on entry but with extra low bite you may find the surface to simply not provide enough mechanical grip to be able to make make the car fast with minimal wheel spin under braking and hard acceleration. Another consideration with the locked front end is that you are always scrubbing one front wheel in the turn, since the your outside wheel cant rotate any faster than the inside you are always effective pushing a wheel through the turn griding away additional foam.
In low grip a 1-way can be benificial because you simple don't need to use as much throttle or brake power to get around the track quickly and this reduction of input can greatly reduce tire wear and improve fuel millage.
With your tires also make sure your rears are harder than your fronts, going too soft in the rear can cause your foams to glaze over and slip even more.
My local tracks is setup on a sealed parking lot with very little sugar water spray and maybe 50F on a good day when our season starts. In this condition I generally run 40R w/ a 38F tire, softer foams tend to gum up and loose grip. For tire brands I have had good success with Jaco, GQ, & GRP with mino setup changes between them.
To go fast in low bite set you car up for soft & smooth with minimal trigger input and you will be faster with less wear & better fuel millage.
Mark
02-07-2008, 01:18 PM
#20
Tech Adept
Another thing you can do to reduce tire wear & fuel consumption is swap out the solid front for a 1-way. I know many will say the locked front is the way to go for low grip conditions but I have found that when the grip goes low the 1-way is usually faster.
The solid front although great in some conditions does have some trade offs. With the front wheels locked left to right your car will have less off power turn in and require stronger braking on entry but with extra low bite you may find the surface to simply not provide enough mechanical grip to be able to make make the car fast with minimal wheel spin under braking and hard acceleration. Another consideration with the locked front end is that you are always scrubbing one front wheel in the turn, since the your outside wheel cant rotate any faster than the inside you are always effective pushing a wheel through the turn griding away additional foam.
In low grip a 1-way can be benificial because you simple don't need to use as much throttle or brake power to get around the track quickly and this reduction of input can greatly reduce tire wear and improve fuel millage.
With your tires also make sure your rears are harder than your fronts, going too soft in the rear can cause your foams to glaze over and slip even more.
My local tracks is setup on a sealed parking lot with very little sugar water spray and maybe 50F on a good day when our season starts. In this condition I generally run 40R w/ a 38F tire, softer foams tend to gum up and loose grip. For tire brands I have had good success with Jaco, GQ, & GRP with mino setup changes between them.
To go fast in low bite set you car up for soft & smooth with minimal trigger input and you will be faster with less wear & better fuel millage.
Mark
The solid front although great in some conditions does have some trade offs. With the front wheels locked left to right your car will have less off power turn in and require stronger braking on entry but with extra low bite you may find the surface to simply not provide enough mechanical grip to be able to make make the car fast with minimal wheel spin under braking and hard acceleration. Another consideration with the locked front end is that you are always scrubbing one front wheel in the turn, since the your outside wheel cant rotate any faster than the inside you are always effective pushing a wheel through the turn griding away additional foam.
In low grip a 1-way can be benificial because you simple don't need to use as much throttle or brake power to get around the track quickly and this reduction of input can greatly reduce tire wear and improve fuel millage.
With your tires also make sure your rears are harder than your fronts, going too soft in the rear can cause your foams to glaze over and slip even more.
My local tracks is setup on a sealed parking lot with very little sugar water spray and maybe 50F on a good day when our season starts. In this condition I generally run 40R w/ a 38F tire, softer foams tend to gum up and loose grip. For tire brands I have had good success with Jaco, GQ, & GRP with mino setup changes between them.
To go fast in low bite set you car up for soft & smooth with minimal trigger input and you will be faster with less wear & better fuel millage.
Mark
02-07-2008, 05:48 PM
#21
Another thing you can do to reduce tire wear & fuel consumption is swap out the solid front for a 1-way. I know many will say the locked front is the way to go for low grip conditions but I have found that when the grip goes low the 1-way is usually faster.
The solid front although great in some conditions does have some trade offs. With the front wheels locked left to right your car will have less off power turn in and require stronger braking on entry but with extra low bite you may find the surface to simply not provide enough mechanical grip to be able to make make the car fast with minimal wheel spin under braking and hard acceleration. Another consideration with the locked front end is that you are always scrubbing one front wheel in the turn, since the your outside wheel cant rotate any faster than the inside you are always effective pushing a wheel through the turn griding away additional foam.
In low grip a 1-way can be benificial because you simple don't need to use as much throttle or brake power to get around the track quickly and this reduction of input can greatly reduce tire wear and improve fuel millage.
With your tires also make sure your rears are harder than your fronts, going too soft in the rear can cause your foams to glaze over and slip even more.
My local tracks is setup on a sealed parking lot with very little sugar water spray and maybe 50F on a good day when our season starts. In this condition I generally run 40R w/ a 38F tire, softer foams tend to gum up and loose grip. For tire brands I have had good success with Jaco, GQ, & GRP with mino setup changes between them.
To go fast in low bite set you car up for soft & smooth with minimal trigger input and you will be faster with less wear & better fuel millage.
Mark
The solid front although great in some conditions does have some trade offs. With the front wheels locked left to right your car will have less off power turn in and require stronger braking on entry but with extra low bite you may find the surface to simply not provide enough mechanical grip to be able to make make the car fast with minimal wheel spin under braking and hard acceleration. Another consideration with the locked front end is that you are always scrubbing one front wheel in the turn, since the your outside wheel cant rotate any faster than the inside you are always effective pushing a wheel through the turn griding away additional foam.
In low grip a 1-way can be benificial because you simple don't need to use as much throttle or brake power to get around the track quickly and this reduction of input can greatly reduce tire wear and improve fuel millage.
With your tires also make sure your rears are harder than your fronts, going too soft in the rear can cause your foams to glaze over and slip even more.
My local tracks is setup on a sealed parking lot with very little sugar water spray and maybe 50F on a good day when our season starts. In this condition I generally run 40R w/ a 38F tire, softer foams tend to gum up and loose grip. For tire brands I have had good success with Jaco, GQ, & GRP with mino setup changes between them.
To go fast in low bite set you car up for soft & smooth with minimal trigger input and you will be faster with less wear & better fuel millage.
Mark
02-07-2008, 06:18 PM
#22
Man, I have tried not so many times to run with one-way... But I have failed miserably. But I'll give it a try. What do you guys suggest I should change in my setup when switching from a solid axle to one-way? Like, go softer in shock, lower rear roll center and higher front roll center...
02-07-2008, 06:28 PM
#23
02-07-2008, 11:07 PM
#24
the mixing is 1 to 1 and we apply it with a blower such as stihl, the cost is around $8 and gives you for 3 uses on a 700 feet and 3mm wide track
happy racing
02-08-2008, 12:00 AM
#25
Man, I have tried not so many times to run with one-way... But I have failed miserably. But I'll give it a try. What do you guys suggest I should change in my setup when switching from a solid axle to one-way? Like, go softer in shock, lower rear roll center and higher front roll center...
When grip is lousy, the tires skid sideways too much. You need to sugar water the track, or re-coat the asphalt. Perhaps your hometrack asphalt condition need renovation when everybody start complaining about tire wear.
. Problem is, that aint the only track over here. We also race in 2 parking lots which tire wear is a problem.
02-08-2008, 10:21 AM
#28
Race every OTHER week! Tires last twice as long
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02-08-2008, 09:36 PM
#29
After driving mainly 8th onroad I stepped down to driving the MTX4. Being that the car was so easy to drive it was time to push it to the limits and doing so also had me burning up foams. At the time 35 shores were used, but upon trying 40 shore traction was just as good and sometimes even better. No matter what shore though after changing my driving style they did last longer and I only go through two sets for the day of practicing/racing. I even run 40shore in the cool spring time, summer and fall with no traction issues really. Just thought I'd share my tips being I encountered the same issue.
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