JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Thanks for that bit of info MrTyson; that's what I was looking for

Me_MrTyson

iTrader: (11)

NP

Merry xmas fella..

valk

iTrader: (13)

Whats the mohawk? Similar to blakemarket? I have run that in 10.5 and liked it

Me_MrTyson

iTrader: (11)

Mohawk is the blackart 005 body with a fin down the middle

ToysRUsKid

iTrader: (16)

What do i need to change to run the crc spur gears that use the 3/32 diff balls?

oddski

Except balls(1/8 - 3/32), I think I read somewhere that you had to use a nonflanged bearing in the spur.

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

yes, when using a spur gear with 3/32 diff balls, a non-flanged bearing is typically needed in the spur gear. Also, it is sometimes necessary to add an axle shim or two between the outermost diff bearing and the diff cone. Those shims are sometimes needed so that the diff nut doesn't bottom out on the end of the graphite axle shaft before applying pressure first on the inner race of the outermost bearing.

ToysRUsKid

iTrader: (16)

I noticed on Mike Ivy's setup he has 2mm shim in the upper arm mount spacer. What does that do to the car? Right now I have zero spacer.

mike ivy

iTrader: (51)

Hey Dorian

What that does is widen the the front. It makes the car more stable on really high bite conditions. But u loose a little steering .if u need more steering

you could start out with a half spacer and go up from there.

That setup I posted a few pages back is a starting setup for anyone running 17.5t blinky.

Hope this helps

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

This may seem a silly question but figuring since I don't know, I might as well ask.
Screws loosened around the chassis and rear pod to let the car settle and re-tightened, new front springs (same height btw), center pivot loosened as well and re-tightened, and all pins given the Mother's treatment. With that being said, using the coin method to set tweek one side has almost 3 turns of the side spring & the other side 1.5. After this I double check the car on my Hudy tweak station and tweak reads correct.
I hate not having the symmetry of both sides but is this something I should be concerned with?
This is with my 10r5.1 but I figured I'd ask here being that its just a bigger 1/12th. Plus I might run into this on the 5.2; not to mention that this thread is more lively.
All thoughts appreciated

haywood

iTrader: (49)

Looks like you covered everything. Did you lay the motor mount on a piece of glass to assure it's not bent?

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Thanks for chiming in haywood
The board I have is a 18"x 24" piece of 3/8" glass. But no I did not check for motor mount flatness.
I will get that done

H I

iTrader: (18)

I thought adding upper arm shim makes long arm set up, which should make little less camber gain, and adding lower arm shim make wide front set up??

bigcracing

iTrader: (32)

That's what I thought when you look at the setup that how I would interpret it longer upper arm and narrow front end and if you add on the lower arm it would give you a wider front end

Does anybody have a Mazda 12th scale body that we ran in the early 90s

Thanks chris

SlowerOne

The impact of changing to a long-arm set-up is very small. As the front of the car rolls less than 2mm, the camber change is very small.

Putting a spacer between the upper wishbone mount and the mounting block will give a long-arm set-up and less camber change. Putting a spacer between the mounting block and the lower wishbone will widen the the front width.

As H I says...