Tekin RS ESC sensored
06-22-2009, 04:55 PM
#4426
Tech Regular
Potato - I'm with you 100%. I find the first 0-35% throttle pull to be pretty soft as well - especially for spec type motors. I did find a very good solution via the transmitter. I use a 4PK and I programmed the throttle curve with the VTR feature - I think is stands for variable trace...something. It's similar to throttle expo - but It feels more linear. Basically, it maps the throttle profile to follow two linear curves. I have the crossover point set as low as possible (I think 20% of throttle pull) and then set a + expo number (mine is somewher around 20-30%). It's almost like having an infinitely variable minimum drive value.
06-22-2009, 05:13 PM
#4429
when it doesn't go anymore and/or it smells funny.
06-22-2009, 07:05 PM
#4431
Hey everyone,
I m looking to change the connector on my RS Pro - The one that goes into the receiver.
Any tips on removing the old one? From my understanding. I just lift the 3 plastic tabs and pull the wire out. To put them back in do they just click back in? Or do I need to lift the tab before it will go in?
Sorry for the noob question, I just dont wanna mess this up.
Thanks.
I m looking to change the connector on my RS Pro - The one that goes into the receiver.
Any tips on removing the old one? From my understanding. I just lift the 3 plastic tabs and pull the wire out. To put them back in do they just click back in? Or do I need to lift the tab before it will go in?
Sorry for the noob question, I just dont wanna mess this up.
Thanks.
06-22-2009, 07:24 PM
#4433
I have a 3PK and I've used the 5-point throttle curve adjustment, setting the throttle to ramp up high on the first point. This seems to help but it still doesn't quite have that direct feeling - still has that mushy feeling at the low end ... but it is much better than the original linear curve.
Jimmy
06-22-2009, 08:08 PM
#4434
06-22-2009, 09:02 PM
#4435
Hey everyone,
I m looking to change the connector on my RS Pro - The one that goes into the receiver.
Any tips on removing the old one? From my understanding. I just lift the 3 plastic tabs and pull the wire out. To put them back in do they just click back in? Or do I need to lift the tab before it will go in?
Sorry for the noob question, I just dont wanna mess this up.
Thanks.
I m looking to change the connector on my RS Pro - The one that goes into the receiver.
Any tips on removing the old one? From my understanding. I just lift the 3 plastic tabs and pull the wire out. To put them back in do they just click back in? Or do I need to lift the tab before it will go in?
Sorry for the noob question, I just dont wanna mess this up.
Thanks.
06-22-2009, 11:58 PM
#4437
I will look into the braking issue. This is something we've only seen from time to time that has been a radio calibration issue or a radio with ABS. The other issue I've seen with some Futaba's is a function called "brake travel."
Resetting the model seems to help this(I don't use this radio so I'm not familiar with all the menus).
Of course make sure your Brake strengths is maxed out. Nw setting no lower than 10. No push control either.
The "soft" throttle: I would like to see some screen shots of your setups if you're willing to send them to me: [email protected]
Resetting the model seems to help this(I don't use this radio so I'm not familiar with all the menus).
Of course make sure your Brake strengths is maxed out. Nw setting no lower than 10. No push control either.
The "soft" throttle: I would like to see some screen shots of your setups if you're willing to send them to me: [email protected]
06-23-2009, 01:30 AM
#4438
I will look into the braking issue. This is something we've only seen from time to time that has been a radio calibration issue or a radio with ABS. The other issue I've seen with some Futaba's is a function called "brake travel."
Resetting the model seems to help this(I don't use this radio so I'm not familiar with all the menus).
Of course make sure your Brake strengths is maxed out. Nw setting no lower than 10. No push control either.
The "soft" throttle: I would like to see some screen shots of your setups if you're willing to send them to me: [email protected]
Resetting the model seems to help this(I don't use this radio so I'm not familiar with all the menus).
Of course make sure your Brake strengths is maxed out. Nw setting no lower than 10. No push control either.
The "soft" throttle: I would like to see some screen shots of your setups if you're willing to send them to me: [email protected]
06-23-2009, 01:35 AM
#4439
I will look into the braking issue. This is something we've only seen from time to time that has been a radio calibration issue or a radio with ABS. The other issue I've seen with some Futaba's is a function called "brake travel."
Resetting the model seems to help this(I don't use this radio so I'm not familiar with all the menus).
Of course make sure your Brake strengths is maxed out. Nw setting no lower than 10. No push control either.
...
[email protected]
Resetting the model seems to help this(I don't use this radio so I'm not familiar with all the menus).
Of course make sure your Brake strengths is maxed out. Nw setting no lower than 10. No push control either.
...
[email protected]
(1) ...
(2) I dont think there is any argument that the TEKIN RS PRO works at SLOWER speeds (small tracks, or whatever). As mentioned in my original post, the car brakes ok at about 60% of race speed. So lets NOT debate that the RS PRO brakes at slower speeds.
(3) The problem is HIGH speed braking, which is obviously more noticeable on large flowing tracks. Using the TEKIN 10.5 with boost, the car is almost as fast as the modified guys, but the FDR is quite different. I can assure everyone that the car just rolls, the wheels are not even remotely close to locking up. Other TEKIN RS PRO drivers at my track, and on this forum, report the same braking issue under similar racing conditions.
(4) Hopefully it can be fixed in firmware, and does not require a hardware modification.
Cheers
(2) I dont think there is any argument that the TEKIN RS PRO works at SLOWER speeds (small tracks, or whatever). As mentioned in my original post, the car brakes ok at about 60% of race speed. So lets NOT debate that the RS PRO brakes at slower speeds.
(3) The problem is HIGH speed braking, which is obviously more noticeable on large flowing tracks. Using the TEKIN 10.5 with boost, the car is almost as fast as the modified guys, but the FDR is quite different. I can assure everyone that the car just rolls, the wheels are not even remotely close to locking up. Other TEKIN RS PRO drivers at my track, and on this forum, report the same braking issue under similar racing conditions.
(4) Hopefully it can be fixed in firmware, and does not require a hardware modification.
Cheers
I feel your pain, as do the other 5 or 6 Tekin speedo users I know.
We did a comparison at my local track between the LRP SPX and the Tekin using the same motor (Orion 13.5). The LRP can stop from full speed in 3 or 4 metres. The Tekin took 6 or 7 metres. It's not the motor, it's the speedo.
Come on Tekin, it's a great speedo but it could be better still if you did a software update for the brakes.
We did a comparison at my local track between the LRP SPX and the Tekin using the same motor (Orion 13.5). The LRP can stop from full speed in 3 or 4 metres. The Tekin took 6 or 7 metres. It's not the motor, it's the speedo.
Come on Tekin, it's a great speedo but it could be better still if you did a software update for the brakes.
Please lets make sure we are all on the same page with the brake issue.
Otherwise you may end up testing under the incorrect scenario.
(1) The issue is:
-- HIGH SPEED braking
-- using a TEKIN RS PRO + 10.5T (or 13.5T) BL + large flowing track.
(2) With this combination, the car just keeps rolling under heavy braking.
(3) I can confirm the following settings:
Drag Brake = 0 & 33% (no obvious difference under heavy braking)
Brakes = MAX
Current Limiter = NONE
Neutral Width = LEDs 4&5
Throttle Profile = LEDs 1-3 (linear)
Motor Type = ALL LEDs on (Sensored + BL, FWD/BRK)
Voltage Cutoff = LEDs 1-2 (6V)
(4) I have calibrated ESC and Mx3 Radio several times with no difference.
(5) One more thing to check with all the users.
?? For those having the braking issue, what BL ESC MotorType setting are you using ??
I'm curious if there is a difference when REVERSE is enabled, or NOT.
Cheers
06-23-2009, 01:52 AM
#4440
Randy,
Please lets make sure we are all on the same page with the brake issue.
Otherwise you may end up testing under the incorrect scenario.
(1) The issue is:
-- HIGH SPEED braking
-- using a TEKIN RS PRO + 10.5T (or 13.5T) BL + large flowing track.
(2) With this combination, the car just keeps rolling under heavy braking.
(3) I can confirm the following settings:
Drag Brake = 0 & 33% (no obvious difference under heavy braking)
Brakes = MAX
Current Limiter = NONE
Neutral Width = LEDs 4&5
Throttle Profile = LEDs 1-3 (linear)
Motor Type = ALL LEDs on (Sensored + BL, FWD/BRK)
Voltage Cutoff = LEDs 1-2 (6V)
(4) I have calibrated ESC and Mx3 Radio several times with no difference.
(5) One more thing to check with all the users.
?? For those having the braking issue, what BL ESC MotorType setting are you using ??
I'm curious if there is a difference when REVERSE is enabled, or NOT.
Cheers
Please lets make sure we are all on the same page with the brake issue.
Otherwise you may end up testing under the incorrect scenario.
(1) The issue is:
-- HIGH SPEED braking
-- using a TEKIN RS PRO + 10.5T (or 13.5T) BL + large flowing track.
(2) With this combination, the car just keeps rolling under heavy braking.
(3) I can confirm the following settings:
Drag Brake = 0 & 33% (no obvious difference under heavy braking)
Brakes = MAX
Current Limiter = NONE
Neutral Width = LEDs 4&5
Throttle Profile = LEDs 1-3 (linear)
Motor Type = ALL LEDs on (Sensored + BL, FWD/BRK)
Voltage Cutoff = LEDs 1-2 (6V)
(4) I have calibrated ESC and Mx3 Radio several times with no difference.
(5) One more thing to check with all the users.
?? For those having the braking issue, what BL ESC MotorType setting are you using ??
I'm curious if there is a difference when REVERSE is enabled, or NOT.
Cheers
As above my settings are the same apart from drag brake its 0%.