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Old 06-22-2009, 05:55 PM   #4426
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Potato - I'm with you 100%. I find the first 0-35% throttle pull to be pretty soft as well - especially for spec type motors. I did find a very good solution via the transmitter. I use a 4PK and I programmed the throttle curve with the VTR feature - I think is stands for variable trace...something. It's similar to throttle expo - but It feels more linear. Basically, it maps the throttle profile to follow two linear curves. I have the crossover point set as low as possible (I think 20% of throttle pull) and then set a + expo number (mine is somewher around 20-30%). It's almost like having an infinitely variable minimum drive value.
I have a 3PK and I've used the 5-point throttle curve adjustment, setting the throttle to ramp up high on the first point. This seems to help but it still doesn't quite have that direct feeling - still has that mushy feeling at the low end ... but it is much better than the original linear curve.
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Old 06-22-2009, 06:03 PM   #4427
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Does this braking problem happen with the regular RS, or is it only a problem with the RS Pro? Plan on putting one in an F104 and will definitly need late braking.
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Old 06-22-2009, 06:12 PM   #4428
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Noob question here guys, how do you know when a motors gone.
What are the signs.
What , no one knows the answer to this question?
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Old 06-22-2009, 06:13 PM   #4429
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when it doesn't go anymore and/or it smells funny.
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Old 06-22-2009, 06:25 PM   #4430
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What , no one knows the answer to this question?
Spin rotor shaft feel for binds..Or spin rotor feel for thumps..You should feel 5-6 per round..If not or bind you have issue somewhere.
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:05 PM   #4431
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Hey everyone,

I m looking to change the connector on my RS Pro - The one that goes into the receiver.

Any tips on removing the old one? From my understanding. I just lift the 3 plastic tabs and pull the wire out. To put them back in do they just click back in? Or do I need to lift the tab before it will go in?

Sorry for the noob question, I just dont wanna mess this up.

Thanks.
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:23 PM   #4432
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They will click back in.
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:24 PM   #4433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Potato View Post
I have a 3PK and I've used the 5-point throttle curve adjustment, setting the throttle to ramp up high on the first point. This seems to help but it still doesn't quite have that direct feeling - still has that mushy feeling at the low end ... but it is much better than the original linear curve.
Same feeling I have running a 17.5 with my rs pro and a 3pk as well. Feels very soft out of the corner and the neutral width seems wider (I have played with many different setting on Neutral width to try to improve it) compared to the other ESC I have. I have tried the different throttle profiles on the ESC, but never got the punch I was expecting out of the corner. I will give the radio adjustment a try and see if it helps. The rest of the ESC operation I'm very happy with and cannot wait to try the turbo feature on our large outdoor tracks here in Chicago.

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Old 06-22-2009, 09:08 PM   #4434
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They will click back in.
Cool thanks!
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Old 06-22-2009, 10:02 PM   #4435
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Originally Posted by rnd_tang View Post
Hey everyone,

I m looking to change the connector on my RS Pro - The one that goes into the receiver.

Any tips on removing the old one? From my understanding. I just lift the 3 plastic tabs and pull the wire out. To put them back in do they just click back in? Or do I need to lift the tab before it will go in?

Sorry for the noob question, I just dont wanna mess this up.

Thanks.
Since you are a noob, do one wire at a time so you keep the same orientation in the new connector.
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Old 06-22-2009, 10:05 PM   #4436
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when it doesn't go anymore and/or it smells funny.
You mean like butt?
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Old 06-23-2009, 12:58 AM   #4437
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I will look into the braking issue. This is something we've only seen from time to time that has been a radio calibration issue or a radio with ABS. The other issue I've seen with some Futaba's is a function called "brake travel."

Resetting the model seems to help this(I don't use this radio so I'm not familiar with all the menus).

Of course make sure your Brake strengths is maxed out. Nw setting no lower than 10. No push control either.


The "soft" throttle: I would like to see some screen shots of your setups if you're willing to send them to me: [email protected]
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Old 06-23-2009, 02:30 AM   #4438
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
I will look into the braking issue. This is something we've only seen from time to time that has been a radio calibration issue or a radio with ABS. The other issue I've seen with some Futaba's is a function called "brake travel."

Resetting the model seems to help this(I don't use this radio so I'm not familiar with all the menus).

Of course make sure your Brake strengths is maxed out. Nw setting no lower than 10. No push control either.


The "soft" throttle: I would like to see some screen shots of your setups if you're willing to send them to me: [email protected]
thanks would be great every thing you have said above i have tryed apart from checking ''brake travel'' the brakes seen not to work with 10.5 brake works ok with 17.5 i have tryed many 10.5 but no change so it hase to be a calibration problem as i know a few others that have had no success with getting brake from the 10.5.
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Old 06-23-2009, 02:35 AM   #4439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
I will look into the braking issue. This is something we've only seen from time to time that has been a radio calibration issue or a radio with ABS. The other issue I've seen with some Futaba's is a function called "brake travel."

Resetting the model seems to help this(I don't use this radio so I'm not familiar with all the menus).

Of course make sure your Brake strengths is maxed out. Nw setting no lower than 10. No push control either.

...

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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
(1) ...

(2) I dont think there is any argument that the TEKIN RS PRO works at SLOWER speeds (small tracks, or whatever). As mentioned in my original post, the car brakes ok at about 60% of race speed. So lets NOT debate that the RS PRO brakes at slower speeds.

(3) The problem is HIGH speed braking, which is obviously more noticeable on large flowing tracks. Using the TEKIN 10.5 with boost, the car is almost as fast as the modified guys, but the FDR is quite different. I can assure everyone that the car just rolls, the wheels are not even remotely close to locking up. Other TEKIN RS PRO drivers at my track, and on this forum, report the same braking issue under similar racing conditions.

(4) Hopefully it can be fixed in firmware, and does not require a hardware modification.

Cheers
Quote:
Originally Posted by THancock View Post
I feel your pain, as do the other 5 or 6 Tekin speedo users I know.

We did a comparison at my local track between the LRP SPX and the Tekin using the same motor (Orion 13.5). The LRP can stop from full speed in 3 or 4 metres. The Tekin took 6 or 7 metres. It's not the motor, it's the speedo.

Come on Tekin, it's a great speedo but it could be better still if you did a software update for the brakes.
Randy,

Please lets make sure we are all on the same page with the brake issue.
Otherwise you may end up testing under the incorrect scenario.

(1) The issue is:
-- HIGH SPEED braking
-- using a TEKIN RS PRO + 10.5T (or 13.5T) BL + large flowing track.

(2) With this combination, the car just keeps rolling under heavy braking.

(3) I can confirm the following settings:
Drag Brake = 0 & 33% (no obvious difference under heavy braking)
Brakes = MAX
Current Limiter = NONE
Neutral Width = LEDs 4&5
Throttle Profile = LEDs 1-3 (linear)
Motor Type = ALL LEDs on (Sensored + BL, FWD/BRK)
Voltage Cutoff = LEDs 1-2 (6V)

(4) I have calibrated ESC and Mx3 Radio several times with no difference.

(5) One more thing to check with all the users.
?? For those having the braking issue, what BL ESC MotorType setting are you using ??
I'm curious if there is a difference when REVERSE is enabled, or NOT.

Cheers
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Old 06-23-2009, 02:52 AM   #4440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
Randy,

Please lets make sure we are all on the same page with the brake issue.
Otherwise you may end up testing under the incorrect scenario.

(1) The issue is:
-- HIGH SPEED braking
-- using a TEKIN RS PRO + 10.5T (or 13.5T) BL + large flowing track.

(2) With this combination, the car just keeps rolling under heavy braking.

(3) I can confirm the following settings:
Drag Brake = 0 & 33% (no obvious difference under heavy braking)
Brakes = MAX
Current Limiter = NONE
Neutral Width = LEDs 4&5
Throttle Profile = LEDs 1-3 (linear)
Motor Type = ALL LEDs on (Sensored + BL, FWD/BRK)
Voltage Cutoff = LEDs 1-2 (6V)

(4) I have calibrated ESC and Mx3 Radio several times with no difference.

(5) One more thing to check with all the users.
?? For those having the braking issue, what BL ESC MotorType setting are you using ??
I'm curious if there is a difference when REVERSE is enabled, or NOT.

Cheers
Hi Randy,

As above my settings are the same apart from drag brake its 0%.
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