Racecrafter

iTrader: (25)

I ran WCRC last night with Jake and we had two full heats of 2wd Mod. As Randy stated this layout is not to my liking as its turn and punch over triple, turn and punch over triple etc. So much so that we are running 5.5's in 2wd!

I'm finding the need to look at big bore options for the fact that as much valving and piston options I have created. The 10mm shocks just won't create enough pack unless you go heavy in fluid and then handling suffers. My car is pretty good I'd say 8.5 out of 10 and getting better.

Changes last night included going to 1.3 pistons up front with 375wt. I would say 425 with 1.3's and also change the rear from 325 to 350 would be optimum.

I also switched to the brown AE springs in front and silvers in the rear. My "druthers" change would be Tamiya red 4wd springs up front with blues in the rear going to the heavier fluids. I will try these back to back this next week.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

And here it is.

S.Bortolotti

Thanks for posting Randy! Nice "rear tread" comment LOL

rimracker

iTrader: (14)

I was just wondering how much was involved with fitting the big bore shocks. You seem to be very happy with the performance of them.

Many of the Kyosho guys that run at my track seem to do well with them as well.

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

You just need to have Kyosho upper shock bushings (the stock Tamiya bushings are a different size) Other than that just space it out just enough for the shock to clear the towers.

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

This is with Kyosho big bores?

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

The shocks include the upper bushings actually. The fronts go right on and are the correct length with the Kyosho shock ends unthreaded 2 full turns. For the rear shocks I was having issues getting the correct length, so I actually had to use Tamiya shock ends but had to cut them down to fit the Kyosho spring cup. I basically just threaded the Tamiya shock end onto a shock shaft, spun it up in a dremel and removed material with a file, ghetto lathe

If people are going to give the Kyosho big bores a shot, I'll take some decent pictures of exactly what I did and put together some basic instructions.

My 8mm longer chassis is on the car right now and I am going to be headed to the track for some testing with that to see if I can get the car any better with a longer wheelbase. I am really looking to make the car even smoother over landings and bumpy areas on the track, we'll see if this helps any.

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

Noticed my shocks are leaking at the shaft last weekend. I've only run the car a few times now and was curious if there was a better set of seals available? I used green slime during assembly and have built numerous shocks (though these were admittedly different from anything I've assembled in the past) so I'm pretty sure they were done right but anything is possible. I'm running Losi oils.

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

I use the Kyosho orange X-rings and they work very well. http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=562&id=6727

Ray Kindstrom

iTrader: (153)

Freakin' K-company is super proud of their shocks.....$20 for a set of springs. Just sayin'

rimracker

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the responses Randy and Steve.

It sounds pretty straight forward, hope I can handle the ghetto lathe, lol.
This seems to be the direction suspension is heading with the big bores.
I will stay tuned for your results, and pics would be great also. I will hold off on the investment for now (shocks and bigger springs).

I have just put in the Kyosho 3 hole pistons in my car and gained about a half a second a lap. I am assuming because I lost pack and kept the same weight oil. I am hoping that by going up in wt. the lap times will fall back down a little.

S.Bortolotti

Just for discussion more than anything, how come we are lengthening the chassis 8mm? Are we just using 8mm because that is what Associated guys lengthen their chassis' by? Is it possible that they lengthened their chassis by 8mm because that is what brought them up to the 292mm ROAR wheelbase limit? From what I measured (if correct), when we lengthen our chassis by 8mm we would be sitting at 290mm wheelbase. Would it be better if we lengthened our chassis by 10mm to be right on the 292mm ROAR limit? Not sure if this will even be reinforced at the Reedy Race, but if so, maybe the 2mm buffer wouldn't be a bad idea...

What do you guys think?

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I did 8mm just because I needed something to start with and the JC body said +8 so it sounded like a nice number at the time

Anyway, I ran the chassis for the first time today and was pretty happy with the overall results. The car was smoother on flat landings and over bumpy areas of the track. I tried the batteries 3/4 forward but ended up with the pack all the way forward at the end of the day. I also changed my 3mm front camber link spacers to 1mm. Car was planted and had good steering with those changes. My previous fast lap was a 21.2, dropped that down into the illusive 20 second laptimes with a 20.9.

My car needs a new rear diff and some new CVD's pretty badly, but I think with those the car will be a lot better and will be able to consistently hit the low 21 second laptimes.

wildwillydriver

iTrader: (1)

We will see longer chassis (8mm - 5mm??) in production in future?
2012...?

Bye
WWD

AaronR

iTrader: (113)

A local racer lengthened his B4.1 chassis 4mm months ago and it was identical length as a standard chassis'd TRF201. Therefore, a +8mm B4.1 is 4mm longer than a standard chassis'd TRF201.

So, Randy, your +8mm TRF201 should be 4mm longer than a +8mm B4.1.