rigor

iTrader: (44)

I know. I do my best

Have fun with your 44.2 ; it's a blast

njnewc

iTrader: (36)

Thanks man. I assure u iam far from lazy. But def impatient. Ha. I have like 12 windows open looking for stuff for this. Anything I should get before the build. I already have the rpm cups. Running tekin rs pro with a gen 2 7.5. 1015 servo.

Advantage R/C

iTrader: (2)

If your running RPM extra turnbuckles lol

goehm

iTrader: (45)

Just to followup with my query, based on some searches on the net and in the B44.1 forum, the TLR22 and B44/B4 rear wheels are all compatible.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Hey everyone, thanks for the driving tips. Looks like I'm on the right path. I've been dialing out more and more brake.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Looks pretty good to me and all the weight is as far back as possible. Rigor runs his over the top so battery change is one step faster. He does not have to unplug the battery to replace it. And he wont have to pull the slipper assy. past any wires which is quicker if he has to pull the slipper. I do mine the same way you do.....

BTW the carbon sticker looks awesome. You should put some on the battery hold down....

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Clean is tuff on a44.


I put some servo tape down 1st. Stick my wires to it then I put some over the wires. Keeps them from flopping all over. I could take more time I guess. I do have some fancy clips I could use which may be cleaner.


Its all hidden once the motor is on anyway.

rigor

iTrader: (44)

Exactly. Not that I generally need to pull the slipper often, but I don't want to have to bust out a soldering iron in the event I need to change spur, pads, etc. Also gives easier access to the slipper nut adjustment.

rigor

iTrader: (44)

Heat shrink / route all wires together, then a little dab of CA glue on the tip of a razor blade, pin it down to the chassis. This keeps dust / dirt from accumulating on servo tape too. It can super clean if you have the right stuff, and want to take the time and effort. Most of ours I've seen are good enough

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Actually you can just push the wire forward without un-soldering. I can appreciate why you do it that way just the same. Definitely easier..

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Yeah that would be less work probably... I will get some pics up of another way I have been thinking of doing it. I will go ahead and do it to show the difference. I am taking my sweet time on this kit anyway. Wont run it till Saturday and all that's left is gluing tires and rattling the lid, so I have the time.

PFKAOG

iTrader: (12)

I dont know what batteries you guys are running but my saddles packs are connected by a jumper wire with bullet connectors. To take the pack out just take one side out and unplug the bullet and then the other side comes out.

DanielC.

iTrader: (56)

TLR 22 wheels on b4/44 are fine. Certain b4/b44 wheels on the TLR don't fit right though. Not wide enough at the axle and leaves a gap.

rigor

iTrader: (44)

All the same... there is no other way. All saddle packs will need a jumper between the 2 cells.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Were talking about the motor wires from the esc. He runs his forward. It makes it easier to pull the slipper...