4LikesReflex Suspension Dynamics (RSD) TC6 Upgrades (vertical ball studs, pistons,etc)
06-05-2012, 10:48 PM
#1217
Another thing I've found that helps TREMENDOUSLY is flipping the top plate. It seems that the counter sunk screws on the top plate induce a very slight amount of tweak to the chassis. I'm currently running mine with blue aluminum counter sunk washers and counter sunk screws. I found that if you just use button heads the material is weak from being counter sunk on the opposite side and you don't get good/consistent clamping. Having zero tweak in the chassis is HUGE and can take a great set up and turn it into garbage. Just my 2 cents. 
I will try the counter sunk washers and screws to see how it does...
We are still working on the top plate. That is the next product on the docket after the Battery hold down system and some more piston options.
06-05-2012, 11:08 PM
#1218
I agree that probably has a lot to do with it. I look forward to trying mine with the new front mount and removing the rear screw. I'm still very impressed with how balanced the car is and how much mechanical traction it makes. The tire wear is far less to any other car I've driven on asphalt. In mod I'm able to use a lot more trigger and steer the car where I want it to go, rather than babying the throttle and fighting understeer.
06-06-2012, 11:32 AM
#1220
Just received my shipping notification! Top stuff!
06-06-2012, 12:14 PM
#1221
Which alignment issues? The motor mount bracket? We have released a new motor mount bracket for the car and all orders, are being shipped with them, with the exception of the ones that went for the REEDY race, which will be shipped by the end of the week.
We have found the car to generate better grip by using only 2 screws on the motor mount. The forward-most screw and the "middle" screw that bolts to the front of the lay shaft mount. I personally have been considering cutting the motor mount right at this spot to test. It also prevents tweak in the chassis a bit better as the motor mount torque only is attached at 1 point. I will post some pics up in a bit.
We have found the car to generate better grip by using only 2 screws on the motor mount. The forward-most screw and the "middle" screw that bolts to the front of the lay shaft mount. I personally have been considering cutting the motor mount right at this spot to test. It also prevents tweak in the chassis a bit better as the motor mount torque only is attached at 1 point. I will post some pics up in a bit.
I purchased Or8ital's RSD6 TC6.1. This chassi is sweet!!!
06-06-2012, 12:36 PM
#1223
06-06-2012, 04:19 PM
#1224
Tech Regular
06-07-2012, 11:23 AM
#1226
NOW IN STOCK!!!
RSD021-2 DCJ Coupling Replacements (1 pair)
RSD021-1 DCJ Rebuild Kit (for 2 universals)
They are now in stock! These are also compatible with XRAY ECS shafts, so if you need to freshen them up and don't want to spend the cost of half a TC6, you can use these.
06-07-2012, 01:39 PM
#1228
These are replacements for our DCJ's, not the TC6 standard drive shafts.
The advantage for a DCJ is that at extreme turning angles chatter is decreased and wheel speed is equalized better. This yields smoother, more consistent steering traction.
The advantage for a DCJ is that at extreme turning angles chatter is decreased and wheel speed is equalized better. This yields smoother, more consistent steering traction.
06-07-2012, 01:49 PM
#1229
Christian, I see on you setup sheets you are using standard TC5/TC6 anti-roll bars.
Have you or anyone else experimented with both both the standard and the TC6.1 HD anti-roll bars on the RSD6?
Have you or anyone else experimented with both both the standard and the TC6.1 HD anti-roll bars on the RSD6?