8LikesCRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks
08-27-2009, 05:43 AM
#1111
I need to have a serialnumber for linkballs for a crc gen x, i am tired of theese in aluminum, wear out to fast i think.
Happy for answer.
//Tomas
Happy for answer.
//Tomas
08-27-2009, 06:58 AM
#1112
Two steel parts you may be interested. 3 of the videos still don't work. I will reload them.
Associated4336 Steel Pivot Ball 12L for T-plate and CRC center pivot $1.90
LosiA6009 Losi JRXS female ballstuds, ball nuts (replace soft aluminum)$5.90 (4)
Associated4336 Steel Pivot Ball 12L for T-plate and CRC center pivot $1.90
LosiA6009 Losi JRXS female ballstuds, ball nuts (replace soft aluminum)$5.90 (4)
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-27-2009 at 03:24 PM.
08-27-2009, 07:28 AM
#1114
Thanks a lot John, always very helpful.
08-27-2009, 07:37 AM
#1115
Cain try the factory thread or the generic 1/12 pan thread or this thread.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/team-com...on-thread.html
Rick- I have fixed the video links. If you could, remove the contents of your quote as the links are still broken inside.
First Pic: finished plastic manifold runner, one of four throttle bodies clamps onto the little stub with a short rubber sleeve. Second pic: current 3-link with Panhard bar in front of the pod. I get the same performance as with it behind the pod.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/team-com...on-thread.html
Rick- I have fixed the video links. If you could, remove the contents of your quote as the links are still broken inside.
OK here is my first attempt at videos on the new web space. It may take minutes or hours before these links actually work. Maybe in the morning. Oh wait it is morning. These are all short videos to limit file size. The first and last video were working at 5:22 AM
www.Stranahan-rc.com/Pantoura_vs_Nitro.wmv
At this point, I was pretty fresh back into RC for a few months. The Nitro driver and I would be considered Sportsman drivers at the time. The Pantoura was about at its peak The Pantoura is CRC's first 1-10 scale pan car. We had good traction. Note the pass after two laps.
www.Stranahan-rc.com/Wide_Pan_Car_vs_Touring_Car.wmv
At this point I was a better pan car driver than before. The tc guy is a professional driver now and was pretty good then as well. I had only recently begun running wide pans so it is not quite setup well. The front springs were too weak and it was dragging on the outboard side on the very high speed sweeper. (usually you go softer to get more steering, here it needed to be stiffer to prevent roll.) Everywhere else on the layout the wide pan was hooked up pretty well. You will see the typical pan car trait, good acceleration for 15-30 feet and then ferocious acceleration into a blur once the wing kicks in some good rear downforce. The 3-link much improves on what you see here on the straight early and late. Best open mod tc lap time 18.5 seconds (mine). Best standard wide pan lap time 17.8 seconds. The car was a home widened Pantoura with custom Aluminum front widening adaptors. Note at the end of one lap a 15 foot advantage on the early part of the straight is realized. The cars were dead even the previous lap.
http://www.stranahan-rc.com/3-LinkSuspension.wmv
Guys asked me to post this because they were unsure how this 3-link suspension moves. I go through the movement in bump, roll right, roll left, bump viewed from the side, the negative camber gain of the dual A-arm that really hooks it up, and then a side view showing the minimal movement of the pod bottom plate with bump. Look at the reflection in the table for this last part. It is quite short.
http://www.stranahan-rc.com/Antisquat_Movie.wmv
This video shows exactly why the 3-link accelerates better. I rotate the pod simulating motor torque, you can see the rear of the chassis lift and then the entire chassis lifts really loading the rear tires. On a standard pan all you get is some lifting of the rear of the chassis any load transfer from the front is completely eliminated by the dampening of the center shock. It does not “come up solid” like the three link.
www.Stranahan-rc.com/Drilling_ABS_Intake_Manifold_Flange.wmv
Well this is just interesting. We are drilling some huge precisely angled holes in a 1 inch thick ABS plastic billet on a milling machine. The plastic will be used as part of an intake manifold for a quad throttle body install on a Ford Focus 2300 Duratec motor. We used coolant and had some typical big work on a little machine type problems.
www.Stranahan-rc.com/Pantoura_vs_Nitro.wmv
At this point, I was pretty fresh back into RC for a few months. The Nitro driver and I would be considered Sportsman drivers at the time. The Pantoura was about at its peak The Pantoura is CRC's first 1-10 scale pan car. We had good traction. Note the pass after two laps.
www.Stranahan-rc.com/Wide_Pan_Car_vs_Touring_Car.wmv
At this point I was a better pan car driver than before. The tc guy is a professional driver now and was pretty good then as well. I had only recently begun running wide pans so it is not quite setup well. The front springs were too weak and it was dragging on the outboard side on the very high speed sweeper. (usually you go softer to get more steering, here it needed to be stiffer to prevent roll.) Everywhere else on the layout the wide pan was hooked up pretty well. You will see the typical pan car trait, good acceleration for 15-30 feet and then ferocious acceleration into a blur once the wing kicks in some good rear downforce. The 3-link much improves on what you see here on the straight early and late. Best open mod tc lap time 18.5 seconds (mine). Best standard wide pan lap time 17.8 seconds. The car was a home widened Pantoura with custom Aluminum front widening adaptors. Note at the end of one lap a 15 foot advantage on the early part of the straight is realized. The cars were dead even the previous lap.
http://www.stranahan-rc.com/3-LinkSuspension.wmv
Guys asked me to post this because they were unsure how this 3-link suspension moves. I go through the movement in bump, roll right, roll left, bump viewed from the side, the negative camber gain of the dual A-arm that really hooks it up, and then a side view showing the minimal movement of the pod bottom plate with bump. Look at the reflection in the table for this last part. It is quite short.
http://www.stranahan-rc.com/Antisquat_Movie.wmv
This video shows exactly why the 3-link accelerates better. I rotate the pod simulating motor torque, you can see the rear of the chassis lift and then the entire chassis lifts really loading the rear tires. On a standard pan all you get is some lifting of the rear of the chassis any load transfer from the front is completely eliminated by the dampening of the center shock. It does not “come up solid” like the three link.
www.Stranahan-rc.com/Drilling_ABS_Intake_Manifold_Flange.wmv
Well this is just interesting. We are drilling some huge precisely angled holes in a 1 inch thick ABS plastic billet on a milling machine. The plastic will be used as part of an intake manifold for a quad throttle body install on a Ford Focus 2300 Duratec motor. We used coolant and had some typical big work on a little machine type problems.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-27-2009 at 08:01 AM.
08-27-2009, 07:43 AM
#1116
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
done
Cain try the factory thread or the generic 1/12 pan thread or this thread.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/team-com...on-thread.html
Rick- I have fixed the video links. If you could remove the contents of your quote as the links are still broken inside.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/team-com...on-thread.html
Rick- I have fixed the video links. If you could remove the contents of your quote as the links are still broken inside.
08-27-2009, 01:03 PM
#1117
Tech Regular
Hi John, how much does your wide pan car with the 3.5/lipo combo weigh? Also do the 3.5-21.5 motors use "380" rotors as opposed to the Feigao "540" motors using "540" rotors? Thanks,Don
08-27-2009, 01:30 PM
#1118
hey guys,
what adjustment can I make to get more mid-corner steering?
say I can't adjust caster...I am hoping to do it with springs or something in the rear of the car
what adjustment can I make to get more mid-corner steering?
say I can't adjust caster...I am hoping to do it with springs or something in the rear of the car
08-27-2009, 01:33 PM
#1119
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hippie- first determine what is limiting the motors forward movement in the pod when adjusting gear lash. You may need to file the excess graphite around that forward screw on the motor plate to make the big opening in the pod bottom plate more square. In a good setup the motor will slide forward enough to hit the center pivot standoff that supports the end of the top plate. Some more things to do to assure this is beveling the center pivot plastic with a dremel sanding drum. bevel the forward edge of the inside of the big hole in the pod bottom plate. See if this lets you use enough pinion. If not maybe a smaller spur is available. I have run 4 cell 13.5 in a variety of pan cars and not had trouble putting enough gear on it.
John thats exactly what i did & know the motor slide s all the way foward .
.
Hippie- first determine what is limiting the motors forward movement in the pod when adjusting gear lash. You may need to file the excess graphite around that forward screw on the motor plate to make the big opening in the pod bottom plate more square. In a good setup the motor will slide forward enough to hit the center pivot standoff that supports the end of the top plate. Some more things to do to assure this is beveling the center pivot plastic with a dremel sanding drum. bevel the forward edge of the inside of the big hole in the pod bottom plate. See if this lets you use enough pinion. If not maybe a smaller spur is available. I have run 4 cell 13.5 in a variety of pan cars and not had trouble putting enough gear on it.
John thats exactly what i did & know the motor slide s all the way foward .
.
08-28-2009, 04:49 AM
#1122
DLS2-My wide pan with 3-link and dual a-arm is at 45 ounces. an old trinity stock motor 540 arm measure .910, a newer Novak HV brushless rotor is at .430 so yes this may be a 380 size rotor. Is there an advantage to the bigger rotor? Probably not. You would get less power. That is my experience with the slightly bigger tuner rotor from Novak.
Jay-L mid corner steering- switch to trailing axles, add more caster, go to a slightly softer front tire, move weight just a little forward.
Its quite all right to ask 1/12 scale questions here. Many guys run both 1-12 and 1-10 cars.
Jay-L mid corner steering- switch to trailing axles, add more caster, go to a slightly softer front tire, move weight just a little forward.
Its quite all right to ask 1/12 scale questions here. Many guys run both 1-12 and 1-10 cars.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-28-2009 at 08:39 PM.
08-28-2009, 08:43 PM
#1123
The emperor wear new clothes. Here is the Worl GT Petite Lemans Gen X 10 with the Parma DB9 body. Some likes already. The hood has plenty of ridges vents and scoops so that the front facia is not floppy like on the mustang with nice flat hood. I was rubbing the track on brakes through some ripples in the pavement. This should help me run my diffuser without extra braces. I am using softer front tires now so the reduced downforce from the low sloping hood should not hurt me in the corners and should help me on the long straights by reducing drag. I lowered all body post about 3/4 inches. This is a pretty low body with low center of gravity. Next club race September 20th. Plenty of time to try this beast out before then. Can an already good setup get better? I will see.
John
John
08-29-2009, 04:08 PM
#1124
World Gt, Petite Le Mans Edition (Novak 10.5, Orion 3800)
Track test
I tested the Parma DB9 body on the World GT car at Mikes-HobbyShop.com new asphalt. I mounted the J Concepts illusion wing that I like (the big one) on the cars built in pylons. I left extra material below the cut line on the front dam so I could use large tires and still have inner fender top clearance on bump and a low dam height.
I mounted my now standard for outdoor pan cars diffuser made from the HPI molded black plastic GT wing. Just a little trimming and then strapping tape. I put the tape 1/4 inch up on the bumper or leading edge, I cut the part hanging down into 1/2 inch srips. The wing is a form fit after trimming. I fold the 1/2 inch ears back to grab the bumper. I redo this with some nice black battery stapping tape on top. The diffuser is now very secure and needs no other bracing.
First run. I had too much steering. The rear end was horribly loose on the chicane. Back to the pits. I raised the front of the body to reduce the diffuser effectiveness just a tad. I raised the wing up on 3/8 inch black plastic pylons from the HPI Black plastic wing kit to provide more rear downforce (I use one of these wings for my wide pan diffuser). This assorted wing mount kit is also available separately for about $5.00. I put the car on the track. It was perfect. I ran against a 4.5 powered touring car and it bettered it just a little. The World Gt car was better in the sweeper and the curve just after the sweeper and just about the same everywhere else than the TC. I could gain a couple of feet each lap. Ready for another race.
JJS Pro 10 and Customized CRC Gen X 10 wide Pan
The pic shows my JJS pro ten which is the fastest car in my stable, and also the fastest I have seen run at Mikes-HobbyShop this year on the new asphalt. This includes 1/8 scale four wheel drive Nitros. Today there was only medium traction. I had such good luck with spec fronts on the World GT car, that I put them on the front of the wide pan on the new asphalt for the first time. The car was transformed. Now it cornered as good as it is wickedly fast on the straight. Before I was kind of floating around the corners. Now I was gripping hard and cornering as if there was good traction, even though there was only medium traction at hand. Here is a new pic of the car. A recent addition which I like is a CRC O-ring and RBig Foot Battery Hold Downs (Aluminum Hourglass Standoff mounts). I wish I had added this O-ring two years ago. Here are some good features I would like in a wide pan and a comment whether they are achieved or not in this model. Note the chassis is a CRC Pantoura. The model just previous to the Gen-X-10.
Good forward traction in dusty conditions, Check
Dual A-arm dampened front end for precise steering and no blowovers, check.
Supple 3-link rear end with individual vertical shocks for each wheel for a mechanincally planted rear in the corners, check
A LiPo battery position that can be moved left or right in the car to achieve balance without ballast. Check. I have two longitundinal rails that can be screwed down in various positions.
Easy battery in and out. No screws. No easier can be found than this O-ring method. It worked well today. No big crashes though. You can take an extra turn around the post to make it tighter. Done. The rear of the battery is secured by a foam strip under the rear crossplate.
A duct cooled speed control and motor. check. No fan needed.
A battery that will go 5 minutes without bloating up in Houston, check. The thunderpower 40C 5300 mA-h pack is doing great.
A speed control that won't thermal with a 3.5 in Houston on new asphalt. Not found yet. Next on the block and in hand the Tekin R8. Note the car worked wonderfully well with a 4.0 today in the heat. It just does not have that acceleration with a 4.0 that makes spectators gasp and giggle on the straight with a 3.5.
A rugged bumper that is diffuser friendly, I have to custom cut this one from an RPM molded bumper.
A diffuser friendly body. This Peugeout 905 b HD is perfect.
The prototype is complete tested and wickedly fast. Allmost all of these features will be available in a CRC wide pan soon.
Maybe someone will make all of these features availabe in a wide pan, or maybe it will be a future Stranahan-Rc.com product. The chassis might look something like the second pic. I would probably not use NiMH slots but you would need some big lightening holes for sufficient chassis flex.
Note click on that first pic again for a bigger scrollable view. Thir pic, Parma DB9 showing front tape strip. Wing is before raising 3/8th inch.
Track test
I tested the Parma DB9 body on the World GT car at Mikes-HobbyShop.com new asphalt. I mounted the J Concepts illusion wing that I like (the big one) on the cars built in pylons. I left extra material below the cut line on the front dam so I could use large tires and still have inner fender top clearance on bump and a low dam height.
I mounted my now standard for outdoor pan cars diffuser made from the HPI molded black plastic GT wing. Just a little trimming and then strapping tape. I put the tape 1/4 inch up on the bumper or leading edge, I cut the part hanging down into 1/2 inch srips. The wing is a form fit after trimming. I fold the 1/2 inch ears back to grab the bumper. I redo this with some nice black battery stapping tape on top. The diffuser is now very secure and needs no other bracing.
First run. I had too much steering. The rear end was horribly loose on the chicane. Back to the pits. I raised the front of the body to reduce the diffuser effectiveness just a tad. I raised the wing up on 3/8 inch black plastic pylons from the HPI Black plastic wing kit to provide more rear downforce (I use one of these wings for my wide pan diffuser). This assorted wing mount kit is also available separately for about $5.00. I put the car on the track. It was perfect. I ran against a 4.5 powered touring car and it bettered it just a little. The World Gt car was better in the sweeper and the curve just after the sweeper and just about the same everywhere else than the TC. I could gain a couple of feet each lap. Ready for another race.
JJS Pro 10 and Customized CRC Gen X 10 wide Pan
The pic shows my JJS pro ten which is the fastest car in my stable, and also the fastest I have seen run at Mikes-HobbyShop this year on the new asphalt. This includes 1/8 scale four wheel drive Nitros. Today there was only medium traction. I had such good luck with spec fronts on the World GT car, that I put them on the front of the wide pan on the new asphalt for the first time. The car was transformed. Now it cornered as good as it is wickedly fast on the straight. Before I was kind of floating around the corners. Now I was gripping hard and cornering as if there was good traction, even though there was only medium traction at hand. Here is a new pic of the car. A recent addition which I like is a CRC O-ring and RBig Foot Battery Hold Downs (Aluminum Hourglass Standoff mounts). I wish I had added this O-ring two years ago. Here are some good features I would like in a wide pan and a comment whether they are achieved or not in this model. Note the chassis is a CRC Pantoura. The model just previous to the Gen-X-10.
Good forward traction in dusty conditions, Check
Dual A-arm dampened front end for precise steering and no blowovers, check.
Supple 3-link rear end with individual vertical shocks for each wheel for a mechanincally planted rear in the corners, check
A LiPo battery position that can be moved left or right in the car to achieve balance without ballast. Check. I have two longitundinal rails that can be screwed down in various positions.
Easy battery in and out. No screws. No easier can be found than this O-ring method. It worked well today. No big crashes though. You can take an extra turn around the post to make it tighter. Done. The rear of the battery is secured by a foam strip under the rear crossplate.
A duct cooled speed control and motor. check. No fan needed.
A battery that will go 5 minutes without bloating up in Houston, check. The thunderpower 40C 5300 mA-h pack is doing great.
A speed control that won't thermal with a 3.5 in Houston on new asphalt. Not found yet. Next on the block and in hand the Tekin R8. Note the car worked wonderfully well with a 4.0 today in the heat. It just does not have that acceleration with a 4.0 that makes spectators gasp and giggle on the straight with a 3.5.
A rugged bumper that is diffuser friendly, I have to custom cut this one from an RPM molded bumper.
A diffuser friendly body. This Peugeout 905 b HD is perfect.
The prototype is complete tested and wickedly fast. Allmost all of these features will be available in a CRC wide pan soon.
Maybe someone will make all of these features availabe in a wide pan, or maybe it will be a future Stranahan-Rc.com product. The chassis might look something like the second pic. I would probably not use NiMH slots but you would need some big lightening holes for sufficient chassis flex.
Note click on that first pic again for a bigger scrollable view. Thir pic, Parma DB9 showing front tape strip. Wing is before raising 3/8th inch.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-29-2009 at 06:55 PM.
08-31-2009, 07:37 AM
#1125
Gen X 10, Battle Axe, Updates to pod
Here is the new pod that shipped with a recent Gen X 10. Note the minimalist left side plate. This style also ships with the battle axe. This will lighten the pod.
Note some mods to reduce problems at the races. I have installed a Stranahan-RC partial steel screw kit to the pod. This replaces the red aluminum screws under the pod, at the back x-brace, at the center pivot and top plate with grade 10.5, black oxide finish, steel screws. Now you can back the screw out about 2-3 turns, wipe in some blue loctite, clamp it down and forget it. You will not be losing screws on the track. I have posted this tip before, but there was no ready source of just these screws.
Also note I have filled that extra hole in the pod bottom plate with an Aluminum screw and stainless steel washer. This will help prevent a weak point there.
Tekin RX8 on the wide pan with a 4.0
The Tekin worked very well with the 4.0 motor. I had long full runs in 90 F weather. Next up an LRP 3.5 with homemade internal fan. I think its a go. The speed control is large but not that heavy. I mounted it in the same place sticking up through the body into my air scoop. Note the full size race car had a big radiator scoop in the same place.
Here is the new pod that shipped with a recent Gen X 10. Note the minimalist left side plate. This style also ships with the battle axe. This will lighten the pod.
Note some mods to reduce problems at the races. I have installed a Stranahan-RC partial steel screw kit to the pod. This replaces the red aluminum screws under the pod, at the back x-brace, at the center pivot and top plate with grade 10.5, black oxide finish, steel screws. Now you can back the screw out about 2-3 turns, wipe in some blue loctite, clamp it down and forget it. You will not be losing screws on the track. I have posted this tip before, but there was no ready source of just these screws.
Also note I have filled that extra hole in the pod bottom plate with an Aluminum screw and stainless steel washer. This will help prevent a weak point there.
Tekin RX8 on the wide pan with a 4.0
The Tekin worked very well with the 4.0 motor. I had long full runs in 90 F weather. Next up an LRP 3.5 with homemade internal fan. I think its a go. The speed control is large but not that heavy. I mounted it in the same place sticking up through the body into my air scoop. Note the full size race car had a big radiator scoop in the same place.