gdux

I was always taught to tune suspension and alignment on the vehicles after running the car for a bit on the track. Reason being that if you set the car up as it comes off the track, the shock oils and different areas of the car tend to warm up. The oil itself thins (less viscosity) and hot/cold parts = expand and contract even if only minimally. With these variables, a cold car that has been freshly setup typically comes off the track way out of the ballpark and then you're back to wrenching...

tc5 man

i just use a camber gauge and calipers to measure the steering linkages equally , now with the steering throw and the toe the setup station helps sometimes eyeballing toe can drive u nuts. but reallly a setup station is more inportant for onroad, think about it your jumping and hitting things more sometimes a bad landing can cause play in the wheel axle etc thats what im saying

tc5 man

thats a new one il try that

8&stuff

iTrader: (55)

at some track layouts iv gave my cars a big workout changing things around and im sure the station would make things much easier for this but for normal tweeks the stations gotta be a rip off. not to mention the guys winning(not me so maybe i could use one)I never see use stations

jnfweld

iTrader: (8)

Th ebiggest thing I have seen in people will but the $160 set up station but not buy the $32 blocks for the car to sit on.

http://www.teamhelotes.com/catalog/i1262.html

You need the blocks. You press the car down on them and then sett all of your settings. The camber will change as the suspenion moves up and down. If you do not have a baseline to set it from you will never get it the same.

HaulinBass

iTrader: (16)

9/10 its not peoples setup that causes them problems its not driving correctly. I make sure everything is even left to right and go from there, to much slop and flex in an 1/8th buggy to get it dialed on the station.
Besides the only thing people usually change offroad is springs/oil/pistons, caster,kickup and anti squat and ocassionally front toe. If you need a setup station to mesure toe, somethings not right.

Zerodefect

True. Most wheels wobble about 1 degree. Used or Proline can wobble 2+ degrees easy.

cjm1126

iTrader: (163)

when i do check my camber its allways with new rims and tires

1day

This has always puzzled me. Why would you set your ride height up at lets say 27mm, and then raise it up to 30mm to set the camber and toe?? Once it sits back down to 27mm, then you have more camber and toe then you wanted...Now if they made different size blocks for different ride heights then it would make sense.
So what logic am I missing?

tallyram

iTrader: (11)

you would be correct! i'm the guy that "set up" joey's car. it's very simple to use the hudy set up station, not rocket science. after tweaking our cars i did notice that it looked like the tires had a little positive camber. i set the car up for -1* camber all the way around. then i checked the camber with wheels on and a gauge read +.5* to +1* camber! i set the car up in the order hudy suggests in the manual and also use the 30mm blocks. i was actually told by someone at rc merica not to use the 30mm blocks, but to let the suspension settle to ride height and then set the car up. made no difference either way! i will continue to use the station, but will add -1.5* camber to whatever number i am dialing in. driving with positive camber is like driving on ice! it makes the front end grab very hard, but the back end doesn't have any bite! oh well, another lesson learned the hard way.

oggietiu

iTrader: (7)

I was also disappointed with my hudy station before cause i cant get my 808 to handle right. It turns out that I had every in reverse for camber. My steering links for toe in/out front was not balanced in the first place and I used that for my baseline setting.

The car was so twitchy and would not turn properly so I adjusted it using the trims.

One race day a Team racer checked my car by eyeballing it and told me your cambeing aint right. So he used my set up station to adjust my car.

He first adjusted my ride hight and droop telling me specifically not to use the droop adjustment for ride height. Use the shocks for ride height adjustment. I was not really giving much attention to this cause its of road and with all the bumps in the track ride hight wouldnt make a differece. I was so wrong cause toe and camber differs at different ride hieght.

He checked all my links all were fine except the steering ling for toe adjustment front. He made it equal and made equal adjustment on the setup station until he got it right. Camber was set correctly. After doing everything, he checked everything all over again doing minor adjustment. All in all he was finished in 15 minutes tops. Drove the car around the track and it was dialed.

After that I use my setup station almost every run but noticing that i dont really need it cause the setting doesnt really change. So I guess you only need the setup station one time once in a while you can just barrow from a friend. But IMO Its a needed tool for racing specially when you jump from tracks to tracks. For me I run only on one tracks so pretty much its just a on the side tool for my next kit setup.

Lille-bror

Talking about set-up:

In this video Adam is adjusting the droop, by measure the length of the shocks. That's not an accurate way to measure the droop. Use the Hudy way, where the car stands on the 30 mm blocks, and then measure the distance from the wheel nut to the ground

+ YouTube Video

Zerodefect

I get accuracy of about .5 degrees. Also I use the blocks so I can get repeatable results that setting at ride ht cannot give. When you push the car down onto the blocks you can see how your roll center settings effect camber. You have more camber when pushed down.

I'll bet that your roll center is set to give .5 degrees less negative camber at ride ht than when the car is pushed down onto the blocks + you wanted very little+ possible wheel wobble = positive camber. LOLz!

If I copy some one elses setup or am useing very little camber then I'll check it at ride ht, but record the readings that I got on the blocks on my setup sheet so If I like thet setup I can go back and repeat it.


Where in the world are y'all raceing where you only need 1 degree camber? Every time you roll in a turn, your outside tires lose negative camber, and if you run too little you go positive and will traction roll first rutt you hit. Are you running real stiff springs or something? (no roll?)


I'm at -3.5/-5 on the stand which is about -3/-4 at ride ht. (useing very aggessive short rear camber link settings so it'll swing more than a long link)

I just set the front camber based on how much my car rolls and how much caster I'm running. ( more caster, I use less camber) I add rear camber to loosen the rear for better rotation and to prevent traction rolls.









Admit it, JP was catching up and you needed to sabotage his Tamiya "Jeremy Edition" buggy.

Zerodefect

Setting droop with the shock length measurement is only accurate to +/-2mm at the hub Hudy style. It sucks, But its better than nothing.

Also that gauge staircase is different than the new one. -2 is 28mm off the table, or 2mm droop(using 30mm blocks). I usually start at -2/-2 now.

And they set the block too far back in that pic, its touching the arms.

only problem is sometime the screws on the bottom of the chassis stick out and the car wont sit flat on the blocks. But obviously they'll wear down in a few races.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

IF its good enough for the ROAR national champ....its good enough for me.